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Fixing cut transducer cables


hirk

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Anybody ever put the 2 pieces back together?I ask because I have a pooched 200khz Lowrance transducer and a good 200khz eagle transducer,they have different plugs and I was considering combining them to create 1 good trans for my Lowrance,thoughts?

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Anybody ever put the 2 pieces back together?I ask because I have a pooched 200khz Lowrance transducer and a good 200khz eagle transducer,they have different plugs and I was considering combining them to create 1 good trans for my Lowrance,thoughts?

Yes it can be done, the guys from the Lowrance repair center e-mailed me the paper a few years back, I only need about 4' of wire and wanted to get rid of the rest of the ball of wire flopping around. It's very similar to putting "F" connectors on cable, just working from both sides of the cut. Solder the center lead, cover with liquid insulation, shrink wrap, then do the same with the outer braid, cover with foil, shrinkwrap and coat the ends. So far after 3-4 years that transducer stays mounted on the back of the boat and still working fine.

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Cool, I have a cut transducer cable I was going to toss. I didn't know it could be spliced. When you say wrap with foil, are you talking about regular alum. kitchen foil?

 

Thanks

Daniel

 

the foil will be shielding.

Buy non-lead solder and read up on soldering before starting, it is not as simple as melting the solder onto the wire. It needs to be done right.

 

http://www.instructables.com/id/EFLMFFRI2AEWP873L3/

 

forrest

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the foil will be shielding.

Buy non-lead solder and read up on soldering before starting, it is not as simple as melting the solder onto the wire. It needs to be done right.

 

http://www.instructables.com/id/EFLMFFRI2AEWP873L3/

 

forrest

 

Cool the foil acts as a shield, sounds good. For the soldering, I've been doing it for years. Thanks for the link.

 

Daniel

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forrest did give you the right answer and it's really not hard to do

I have done it many times

you could also put a male and female connector where it is cut then you can disconnect it anytime you want

I did that on a trolling motor that I had a transducer on and it sure made life easier

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If you don't have some already when you pick up the solder grab a tin of flux as well. Not necessary but I find it makes for a better connection.

Healthy electronics hint, don't use flux on electronics, it will cause corrosion later, use the proper electronics solder.

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If you soldered small gauge wire(18 to 24) like the vid in my shop

I would make you open the harness and replace the burnt wire.

On 18 gauge and up. You don't want to use any more then 75 watt soldering iron.

You will burn the cable making it brittle.If this wire is in a high flex area the wire

will break just past the solder.

Also use thinner flux. Acid flux is for other jobs.

Flux is very inportent. It will help the solder spread without adding heat to the wire.

Flux will also clean the wire. helping the solder to get a firmer hold.

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If you soldered small gauge wire(18 to 24) like the vid in my shop

I would make you open the harness and replace the burnt wire.

On 18 gauge and up. You don't want to use any more then 75 watt soldering iron.

You will burn the cable making it brittle.If this wire is in a high flex area the wire

will break just past the solder.

Also use thinner flux. Acid flux is for other jobs.

Flux is very inportent. It will help the solder spread without adding heat to the wire.

Flux will also clean the wire. helping the solder to get a firmer hold.

 

I am thinking the above standards are too high for this application and the materials available to the person doing the work.

Tybo is right about the flex thing, make the area rigid and a bit of slack to reduce stress on it.

 

Never had to use extra flux (there is flux in the solder) unless I totally botched the soldering job, in this case forge the flux, cut the wire and start again...... I have cleaned the wire with alcohol if I had too. Work with a cheap iron is OK....if you are careful. Yes, I have done a lot of good soldering work and yes, Good enough to build an stereo amplifier and and a laser based comm system on circuit boards I made myself.

 

Using different size of wire can be a potential problem with data transfer wires, I do not know about the 200Khz range). As long as you upsize for a patch it will be OK for the low voltage.

 

Its a lousy few wires. Within reason, work with what you have and it will work out.

 

forrest

Edited by forrest
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Wow, seems like I started a big debate regarding flux :whistling:

 

"Rosin Core Solder" or "Flux Core Solder" contain flux but the rest do not. Personally I find that a better connection is created by using a tiny amount of flux to clean the wire before applying the heat. I also find that this allows a novice to get a better end result and reduces the chances of them making a mistake such as applying too much heat for too long.

 

Tybo's last two points hit the nail on the head!

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Follow good soldering practices as above.

Heatshrink each indivdidual conductor- besides the good insulation value it will also reduce capacitance between conductors which can impact accuracy (as inductance can too).

Once each conductor is insulated join braid (ground) and wrap all with tinfoil (ensure braid makes good electrical contact with foil. use large piece of heat shrink to cover all. I sometimes coat w liquid tape prior to heat shrinking.

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Wow, seems like I started a big debate regarding flux :whistling:

 

"Rosin Core Solder" or "Flux Core Solder" contain flux but the rest do not. Personally I find that a better connection is created by using a tiny amount of flux to clean the wire before applying the heat. I also find that this allows a novice to get a better end result and reduces the chances of them making a mistake such as applying too much heat for too long.

 

Tybo's last two points hit the nail on the head!

 

Why complicate things? Like the guy at radio shack is going to sell solder without flux. Heck, I never bought solder without flux.

 

KISS is the method required here. There is no need for purchasing a Weller or a solder wick, flux or fume removing equipment. If Hirk bought all the stuff he "needs" he would be better of buying a new cable.

 

I am starting to like that "connector method" more an more.

 

 

forrest

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