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Posted

Who here attaches directly to the eye of a crankbait?

 

Typically I'm fishing for walleye and or pike, so I want a leader.

 

I usually attach a wire leader to my line and then the snap goes into the split ring. I've seen one fisherman attach a wire leader directly to a crankbait, and I"m not sure how he did it? Maybe he had a crimper and those slips/sleeves to run the wire though. I'm not sure I'd trust crimping a leader, but I guess that's how most of my leaders are made anyways..... Crimping the sleeves on must have pretty awesome strength qualities. You'd think the odd sleeve would slip off and lose the lure if snagged or fish if it's big. I think I'd prefer leaders with twists/knots.

 

I also have seen some articles on removing split rings if you do use snaps. Put the snap directly to the eye of the lure, helps keep a better lure action. I guess having one point where the lure swivels at line/leader contact is best. If you put the snap onto the split ring, there's two points of contact and a weaker lure action. Do I have that theory correct?

 

Any thoughts guys???

Posted (edited)

personally i've never tried it but i know a lot of people use high pound test flouro line as leaders instead of wire. it will have better lure action and the fish won't see it as easily

Edited by Victor
Posted

The action of the lure will be different for each of the different combinations you described. Some lures will be more affected than others. A lot of people will now use Fluorocarbon line as a leader instead of wire.

 

Another concern with tieing your line directly to a split ring is the line slipping into the "split" part of the ring. Now you'll see some oblong split rings that are meant to counter this problem.

Posted

It really depends on what you're targeting. I use crankbaits for Trout and I never use a leader. I often catch incidental Pike as well. Sometimes they just saw me off in an instant. Other times I've been able to land 40+" Pike. Depends how they're hooked. If targeting Pike or Muskie, a leader is a must. You don't need one for Walleye.

Posted

We trolled for walleye on Lake Erie and the Georgian bay for years, on Erie always crankbaits, sometimes used them on the Georgian. Never lost a walleye on Erie on a crankbait due to a cut or broken line, lost some fish on the Georgian but I doubt they were walleyes.

 

Twist Weld leaders material is easy to use and you can put a steel leader on just about anything, Stamina sells it from 20 to 150 pound test.

 

http://www.staminainc.com/terminal_tackle/...leaderwire.html

Posted (edited)

95% of my pickeral fishing is trolling after dark and if I'm using body baits I attach them with a small snap and if I'm using spinners or harnesses I'll go with a small snap & swivel.

 

The snap just makes life much easier when it comes time to change baits in the dark.

 

I've used that method quite successfully for decades and have never found it hindered the action of the baits at all, just be sure the snaps are as small as you can get away with.

Edited by lew
Posted

yellowboat, I started using it as a young man, back in the day worm harnesses sold here were almost all made with wire leader and some of it looked heavy enough to use as a tow cable. LOL maybe the idea was it was a built in sinker?

 

Found use for it for making short light leaders to use on jigs on lake Erie and custom length one to use on the Georgian. Never had one open on me(wraps), I find other ways to lose fish, poor quality snaps, drag too tight for the line test.

Posted

i have and always and will always attach directly to any crank bait or spinner bait i use,lure action is much better,yes you do break off if a toothy critter hits it the wrong way but thats why we buy 2 or 3 of everything lol or at least thats what i tell my wife lol.

 

Hawg Hunter

Posted

I'm sure i'll sound like a broken record as I haven't read the posts before me, but with pike you'll want a wire leader of some sort, and with walleye you're a-ok without a metal leader

 

I did a shoot with Dave Mercer and watched him catch 40 some walleye in a row on a crank bait, leaderless and didn't lose a single one.

 

I think the action of a smaller crank bait can be altered a little by using a big old metal leader....

 

Just my opinion - Either way - good luck out there this summer!

 

 

Cheers

Posted

I don't think the question was "leader/no leader", it was about attaching directly to the eye instead of the split ring. They both work. Usually, tieing directly to the eye results in a tighter wobble.

Posted

Doing this will result in a tighter wobble. This works well in hotter weather when you need to burn a bait. However is does hinder the lure action. Try tying a knot such a the Rapala knot. This will act as a split ring and works very well. I use an oval split ring to create a wider wobble in cooler weather. I still have a ton of the old Fenwick Iron silk stuff thats as strong as steel leaders. I would go with Yellowboats material. Seems to be the same as the Fenwick material.

 

Link to the Rapala Knot.

http://www.animatedknots.com/rapala/index....imatedknots.com

This knot works very well for stickbaits. Make sure you went the line very well before making this knot as it will cause a weak point if not properly tied

Posted

I do not use a leader, and cannot remember when I have lost a fish due to the line breaking.... I use powerpro and a cross lock.

 

G

Posted

when i troll for walleye at night with cranks i tie directly to the split ring or the eye of the lure, never use a snap or swivel or leader, i've got decent pike and haven't lost a lure in many years, last time i lost one was about 5 years ago on a walleye, but it was my fault, the pickeral were really biting good and instead of re-tying after a couple fish i just kept fishing,

 

the bait shouldn't "twirl" like a spoon so there's no need for a swivel,

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