BFSC Kevin Posted October 14, 2007 Report Posted October 14, 2007 (edited) well, with all the workload i have coming ahead, i think i will be getting my boat ready.. how depressing... so my boat is pretty much ready. but the motor is the more difficult part for me with my 20 hp merc.. i just changed the gearcase lube today ran the motor with the bunny ears to get out all sand and whatever out of the system a few days ago. however i still need to seafoam it and put some antifreeze stabilizer in the fuel/fuel line. oh yeah, i'll be taking the wheels off the trailer too, placing them onto some cinder blocks instead. since my boat is a pretty basic tinny, i dont think much is required of me. the boat/trailer will be stored in the yard and the motor in the basement. however, is it alright to put my motor into a big bag or something so bugs/spiders don't crawl into the holes i dont want it to of the motor? thanks for any help kevin Edited October 14, 2007 by kevin
Sinker Posted October 14, 2007 Report Posted October 14, 2007 however i still need to seafoam it and put some antifreeze in the fuel/fuel line.using normal car anti freeze is alright for this assume? Not sure why your seafoaming it, and whatever you do , don't put antifreeze in your fuel lines! Add Stabil to your fuel, and fog the motor with a fogging agent ( avail at CT) Just spray in the carbs while running till it stalls. If your storing it inside, you really don't have to do anything to the engine......just put the stabil in your fuel tank and your done. All I do is make sure there's no water in the lower end gear case. I change my gear oil about every 3 months.....but thats only so I know for sure I haven't damaged the propshaft seal. Mine gets run until there is safe ice though....so I have a long time on the water yet! Sinker
Joey Posted October 14, 2007 Report Posted October 14, 2007 Winterizing, what's that??? Niagara here I come Joey
BFSC Kevin Posted October 14, 2007 Author Report Posted October 14, 2007 why not seafoam? i heard people using it and it shows on the page that i can use it for fogging? http://www.seafoamsales.com/deepCreepConsumer.htm i wouldnt have time for the rest of the season to use the boat. so sadly i must prep it up now =(
Terry Posted October 14, 2007 Report Posted October 14, 2007 do not put antifreeze in gas.... stabilizer is a completely different thing
Zamboni Posted October 14, 2007 Report Posted October 14, 2007 (edited) why not seafoam?i heard people using it and it shows on the page that i can use it for fogging? http://www.seafoamsales.com/deepCreepConsumer.htm i wouldnt have time for the rest of the season to use the boat. so sadly i must prep it up now =( I love Seafoam for de-carbs, your better off with a dedicated fogging oil for your (fogging) purpose. The Seafoam does contain some lubricating oil-much better to use fogging oil that is a higher percentage. If your engine contains any gunk in carbs or carbon around rings for example your going to dislodge that....but not blow it out the exhaust as whern doing a proper decarb. IMO what makes Seafoam so good for doing a decarb makes it unsuitable for fogging an engine, the dislodged gunk is just going to gum up somewhere again. Whe using the fogging oil I like to shoot a little in every carb-then go heavier till engine stalls as someone recomended. Then pull each plug, clean the oil off the electrode to aid next springs start-and shoot more fogging oil into each cylinder through spark plug hole. Hold the straw with your finger while doing that, don't just hope it stays attached to the aeresol can. Put the plugs back in and they won't start off fouled for next springs start. Edited October 14, 2007 by Zamboni
Zib Posted October 14, 2007 Report Posted October 14, 2007 Since you already changed the gear oil just add Stabil (fuel stabilizer) to the gas. Run the motor then disconnect the fuel line & spray fogging oil into the carb as the motor is starting to stall. Remove the spark plugs & spray fogging oil into the cylinders & turn the motor over by hand (turn the flywheel on top). Replace with new spark plugs if needed. Store the motor in an upright position. While you are at it you might as well inspect the fuel filter & hoses so you are ready to go in the spring. Grease/oil up any parts that require it.
Rattletrap2 Posted October 14, 2007 Report Posted October 14, 2007 Put the muffs on the lower unit and run the garden hose. You need to add the Stabil to your remaining fuel before running the motor for 10 minutes. It will take this long at the lower RPM's to get the stabil through the motor and through all the jets and lines. Towards the end of this 10 to 15 minute run time, start spraying fogging oil into the carb (s). With the RPM's up around 800 to 1000, it will smoke like a bugger and then stall out. You are done! Pull the plugs and spray a bit more in the plug holes as well. Pull the starter rope over very slowly a couple of times to get it into the cylinders. Running the starter or pulling the motor over too much without the plugs attached, can cause ignition system damage in some cases. Now, I would change the lower gear oil. Check the magnetic plug on the lower drain screw for excessive metal particles. Make sure the gaskets are in good shape on both screws. Put some grease on the prop shaft under the prop. I would not wrap the motor in plastic, especially if it is going to be stored outside. Condensation will form on sunny days or when the temperature changes. The motor should be able to breath freely in the surrounding air. If anything, foerm a snow cover over top to keep the winter elements and sun from fading it.
BFSC Kevin Posted October 14, 2007 Author Report Posted October 14, 2007 well i'll be storing indoors, but i guess its not too bright to stick it into a bag still. otherwise i have done most of it. COMON HARD WATER!!!! haha, please don't kill me for saying that.. haha kevin
Fishn Technishn Posted October 14, 2007 Report Posted October 14, 2007 I always add Stabilizer to my gas in the later part of the year-September on. That way I KNOW the fuel is stabilized all the way thru. Just need to change bottom end lube & do the fog job and you're pretty much done. FT
glen Posted October 14, 2007 Report Posted October 14, 2007 I will be doing my motor a little different. I will drain the gas from the carb. Then i will put some motor oil in the spark plug holes and turn the motor over a few times. I drain all the gas from the tank too. This is easier and cheaper then using Stabil and fogging the motor.
Sinker Posted October 14, 2007 Report Posted October 14, 2007 I put stabil in every tank of fuel I burn. This was reccomended to me by my marine mechanic, since the intro of ethanol into our fuel. Apparently, the ethanol attracts water, and can separate your oil from the fuel.....the stabil stops this from happening. I also run seafoam every spring and every fall. I just spray it directly into the carbs, let it sit for a half hour or so, then go for a good run at WOT. This clears out any carbon build up. A good point was mentioned about storing your engine in the upright position. Storing it on its side, or laying down can mess up parts in your carb if there is any gunk in there. Sinker
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