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I can imagine they'd mess up really fine stuff but not had too many problems so far. I like the idea of the twist ones though, I tried some similar ones that you didn't twist and they all headed off to the Great Lakes on their own

I use a double or triple surgeons knot for leader to tippet - there shouldn't be a massive difference in diameter between the two. Indicators - I use Thingamabobbers, loop you leader and pass it through the hole in teh indicator then pass the lopp over the indicator and you're good to go. I also use strike putty when using very small flies but it can be a PITA to keep on the leader unless you mould it over a knot.

Morning all, I'm helping out at the Kids and Cops day http://www.kidsandcops.ca/2009events.php tomorrow at Safari Lake in Flamborough and thiought I'd give it a plug as it's a great day out - last year was a great day with lots of fish caught and plenty of smiling kids and Hamilton police were there with their riot gear and bomb disposal robots which was very cool. I'll be with the fly fishing guys doing casting and fly tying. Hope to see a few OFCers there

Here's how I do it... I use an Arbour Knot to attach backing to the spool Then a nail knot to attach the backing to the fly line (make sure you attache it to the end with the "attach this end to the reel" type sticker on it! Most fly lines have a loop to attach the leader loop to loop, otherwise I nail knot a piece of mono to the fly line and put a perfection loop in it (surgeons loop would be fine too) Then use a surgeons knot to attach tippet to the end of the leader and a clinch knot for the fly to tippet. Djeep - you albrights will work just fine, the nail knots go through the guides a bit easier which is the only difference. Hope that helps

Weighted flies with either a lead underbody or a beadhead or both! I tie my own and use a tungsten bead with a few wraps of lead if I can get away with it - great for deep pockets behind a boulder. You can help your fly sink quicker by mending the line, which slows the drift and lets it sink. I'm not a fan of split shot but they do work - if you use them position it about 8-12 inches above the fly. Don't get too hung up on fly selection and match the hatch, a generic bug pattern like a Pheasant Tail Nymph or Hares Ear will catch fish if you fish it correctly.

Good point on the temps from Bill - last year the Upper Credit was over 70 by mid June, no biggie, that just means it's time to change over to bass which are great fun on the fly! Get some of the smallest type indicators and loop it on your leader about 1.5 to 2x the water depth above your fly (3ft deep - indicator 4.5 to 6ft above fly) it'll make seeing the hits much easier. Nice vid by the way - you look the part creeping through the bushes at the start!

Nice going! After 8 of those your arm must be ready to drop off I have to try and get some carp on the fly this year.

If you just want to dip your toe, something like this http://www.basspro.com/Redington-Crosswater-Complete-Fly-Rod-and-Reel-Outfits/product/10210402/48387 in the 9' 5wt or this http://www.basspro.com/TFO-Signature-II-Series-Rod-and-Hobbs-Creek-Reel-Fly-Outfits/product/11110505004914/310679 in the 8'6" 5wt would be perfect. The Redington comes with a decent (Rio) line too, whereas the TFO doesn't say so I'd lean towards the former. If you get the hang of it and enjoy it you could add an 8wt for bass and steelhead (bigger flies/ bigger fish).

Great pics - I used to live near there before moving to Ontario, the fishing is great! Funny people saying "Didn't know they had Grayling in Europe" - I didn't know they existed in North America til I saw them in a fishing magazine , beautiful fish and great fun on a fly rod.

Send a PM to OFC member Spiel, he's Hamilton based and does excellent work.

Love it - I reckon you'd get bass on that

That first fish is a sucker isn't it? And a big one too - nice going!

Nice fish! A chartreuse and white clouser minnow is my go-to for bass as well Has anyone ever told you you look like fishing guru Matt Hayes?

Terrestrials are generally hoppers, ants, that sort of thing and yeah, the artificials are always floating/dry patterns. 'Wet' fly patterns tend to be baitfish, leeches, nymphs - stuff that belongs in the water.

Great looking dog! I made a 'super lightweight' hood stay for a car with an old rod section a few years ago

Maybe a daft question - how big/busy is this event? I have to be in downtown Hamilton by 10 at the latest so will probably only have 30mins but I'd like to swing by for a quick look if I can.

Great report Dave - glad you had a successful trip! That Grouper is enormous, not sure if they have teeth or not but I still wouldn't be lipping it like that

I seem to remember Mercman works in appliance parts, might be worth dropping him a line first.

I'd go with the 3M film - it's tough stuff and easy to apply as long as the surface it's going onto is clean.

Looking good Dave Hopefully there's a 'shark on fly gear' pic to come

Not tried it with a boat trailer but I managed (with some swearing at it) to manouevre a 600kg car on a twin axle trailer on my own by jacking up the jockey wheel so the front wheels were off the ground and giving it a shove but if you park it up on the bags, this would make it a lot less hassle

Have a look at the Rio Mainstream Bass and Pike line - $40 from Flymart.ca (based in Ontario) - overline the rod by one line weight to load it better (especially useful for fishing at close quarters)

I have a pair of the White River ones - not the same as your link, I think they were about $120 a couple of years ago. They're great, and do everything i need i.e. keep me dry. I went cheaper as I do a lot of walking through the bush and I probably have more chance of getting a hole from a sharp stick or thorns than a seam leak, most warranties won't cover a puncture from something sharp (Simms will if it's in the first year of owning them) and if they do develop a seam leak, a tube of Aquaseal is less $ than the gas to BPS to exchange them. Your choice of wader boots is probably more imporant - I have Orvis felt soled boots which are very good, felt has the best grip but if you're fishing different bodies of water on two consecutive days it may help transfer invasive species unless you can dry them out, this has lead to the Vibram style grippy rubber soles - am reading varying reports on whether they are as good as or worse than felt, haven't tried them so can't offer an opinion. Felt is also a pain when fishing in winter as snow will build up on the sole when they're wet. The other option is Korkers which have changeable soles, probably what I'd go for next time.

I'd go with an 8wt too and overline it with a 9wt line to load the rod better. What you buy depends on your budget (not breaking the bank means different things to different people) but have a look at used gear, you'll get better gear for your money - drop me a pm if you want a hand with finding something. Wormdunker - Troutfitters closed their shop over the winter and Ken is now running the business from home, still doing the guiding but the shop will be mail order only (unless you have a very big order). Wilson's are setting up a store in or around Fergus later in the spring though.

Definitely a Rudd, reminds me of catching them on the surface on floating maggots as a kid