Fisherman

Yes, however I would use a three prong connector(leave one prong unsued) just to make sure you never accidently or someone else plugs it in backwards.

Hard to find, imagine a 2-4 hangover with your glasses on backwards..not quite..just follow the shifter linkage from outside of the engine cover to the inside and where it changes direction downwards is where the pin is. The shift rod will remain attacted to the lower unit but it's not that hard to thread it back up the hole when putting everything back together. Good luck and don't overtighten the lower unit bolts.

Not hard at all, go to the link, then go to the bottom link "water pump" on the left you will see the shift rod, it has a cotter pin and another cross pin at the top at the shift linkage that needs to be removed. Then you should be able to pull the lower unit off. Look at item #30 connecting pin and #15 shift rod. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Ou...PUMP/parts.html That pin is under the engine hood, follow the shift linkage from the shifter, bit of a bugger to find.

Connect the positive wire to the positive post negative to the negative post. Make sure you have a fuse in the positive wire, 15-20 amp should do and as close to the batter as possble. Did you get a manual with it, should be able to get an on line manual for the downrigger with instructions

That's why I like Seafoam, preventive maintenance in a can.

There is a one way valve at the entrance end of the fuel bulb, if there wasn't, you would never be able to pump the fuel up from the tank to the motor and get it to remain in the line. For checking it, pump the fuel bulb up on the kicker and then detach the line from the fuel tank, the fuel should not run out of the end of the hose. Hang the fuel line over the side of the boat and have a small can or similar receptacle to put the end of the hose in so if it does leak, you won't be spilling it on the ground. Another possibility is that the fuel pump on the motor could be weak or pooched.

You say it's your kicker motor, is it attached to the same tank as the main motor? How about the one way valve in the ball is allowing the fuel to run back to the tank. There may also be a rubber "O" ring in the fuel line connectors at the tank and motor that might not be sealing 100%.

I'm only taking a stab at this, I'm almost sure that the fuse is on the solenoid for the starter motor, and that the "dead battery is causing an overload trying to recuperate. Just for experiments sake, disconnect the trolling motor battery before you restart your main motor and see if it still blows the fuse.

Now, now Brian, I realize that as we get older, sometimes we regress a bit to our younger years and get things more fit for a "young" person. you can't retrieve your youth and beauty sleep doesn't work.

I'nm suspecting that the fuse is blowing because the battery is drained too far down and the charging system is going into overload trying to recuperate. I prefer the ABC switch too.

Oh GCD, you're so tactful..

Are you out there scaring the fish and skinny dippin again just wait til I tell Mother Nature

Go to a real bearing shop and ask for the double lipped seals, they work much better to keep water out and the grease in.

Scotty made in Canada, good for our business, excellent warranty, my electrics are over 10 years old, never had a problem. Check CTC and I think W-mart might still carry them at a better price.

That size fish would be at the very upper limit for me to keep, and only when from clean cold water. I've caught and kept a couple that were slightly bigger and the quality of meat and taste suffers.

Unfortunately no, but, picture Holdfasts rig and in stead of the plywood holding up the canoe, the 2x4 takes its place to set the boat on. The 2 1' axles are "U" bolted to the ends of the 2x4 with enough sticking out to allow the wheels to be added on with presto pins and washers. Like someone said above, the tires are better off being hard rubber like item #2020090 from Princess Auto..no flats.

Well someone has to help him eat shore lunch.. 1. Choronzy 2. Babe Winkelman 3. Pete Bowman Northern Manitoba or BC coast Walleye & Lakers or Salmon

Yes, required length of 2x4 to go side to side across the bottom of the boat, 2x 1 foot 5/8" axles, 2 wheels from Princess Auto about 12" high, one ratchet strap to go over the boat and hold the 2x4 underneath. I had a 14' with a 7.5 on the back, I could leave everything inside it and wheel it around by myself. Forgot the 4 x 5/8th "U" bolts to hold the axle to the 2x4.

I see after giving you the date of when everyone needs the card, I won't go any further except for you to go here and read: http://www.tc.gc.ca/marinesafety/debs/obs/paperwork/menu.htm

With all the advertising regarding Boating Operators cards that are required for everyone by 15 Sep 09, regardless of age or boat size or motor size, you would think you might have picked up on that by now.

That's a good price, with or without rim and, galvanized at that. I would buy them but my fenders are not wide enough.

If he has/had load range "C" 12" tires, then 80 psi is the correct amount, look on the sidewall for inflation, that's what mine also say, load range "B" are 50 psi.

That sort of goes with the "high octane" myth...oh ya, it makes wayyyy more power, some folks should read what some products actually do and what they shouldn't be used for.

Trailer tires are a real pain in the .. You'll find that 99% of them are made in you know where, quality control is mediocre at best, apparantley Goodyear is bring back some of their trailer tire production back to the USA. Princess Auto does have 145/12 inch radial tires in C load range, see if they fit.

I really thuink the GPS and Fish finder are not the power hogs, my GPS takes less than 1 amp and Fish Finder on 1.0 amp even with the light on. The livewell will probably take about 3 amps or a bit more. At idle my motor will show about 13.2 volts, anything above idle it goes to about 13.8. I'm suspecting a weak battery, if it's a maintenance type battery, have you checked the fluid level? Like F/F said, get a charger on the battery for 24 hours with nothing connected, then wait 12 hours or so and check the voltage reading, if it's below 12.6 volts, it's on the way out, 12.3 is only 50% and anything below that, you're off to the battery store.