Fisherman

Quite a while back there was a discussion regarding the meaning of Single Barbless for certain areas, and some said that it meant just that, others said a Treble Barbless is considered a single hook when on an Artificial lure. Heres the link to the old post: http://www.ofncommunity.com/forums/index.p...amp;hl=barbless This is what I finally got back from the MNR after sending them the question and zone where it applied. Hello, Thank you for your enquiry and we apologize for the delay in responding to your e-mail. It means only one single, barbless hook may be attached to your artificial lure. A single, barbless treble or double hook would be illegal. Regards, nric web reader - cg All said and done, there's the official version, now nobody has an excuse about that particular situation..

Satisfaction from doing it yourself and saving a few clams at the same time. Nice job.

Quit watching all the TV programs and commercials you don't like and 99% of your problems will be solved.

That and a couple of Mario Andretti brake marks

Six years old and never seen the road is just as bad if not worse than being used. Tires have a compound built into them that remains "active" for lack of a better description and when sitting idle or used as a spare, the active agent can't keep the rubber pliable, so tires dry out and then explode. There are infinite stories of this on RV forums. Carlisle tires aren't the best brand either, but, considering where about 99% of trailer tires come from, that's no wonder. Unless mistaken Goodyears are not made in N/A either. Keep an eye on the pressure and better to have them inflated to maximum allowable than to have them underinflated, running hot and ..Ka-pow. Good luck with the warranty.

Amen Rick, well said.

some home insurance policies will automatically cover boats up to 16' with no more than a 25 hp on it with the basic theft liability coverage at no extra cost. Call your agent.

As long as you're both happy, that's all that counts, enjoy, lifes short and you never get a second chance. Now get some slimy critters in there and make it smell funky.

Periodic oil chanes, after the first 20 hours it goes to 200 hours or one year, oil filter every 2 years or 400 hours, retorque the heads, ha ha ha ha, that's a good one. Lower unit oil, once a year. So I am assuming then that the Etec takes less than 1.7qt(1.6l) of oil per year to inject with the gas ,cause that's all it takes for an engine oil change for the Honda. Soooo, I think you might be paddling a bit after your 1.7qt of oil run out in the oil reservoir in the Etec while the 4 strokes are still merrily motoring along. Go back to the dealer for periodic maintenance, jeez, mine must be coming soon I hope,,,13 years and not back yet, seems like a pretty good track record.

Would you kindly show us where and how much more a 4 stroke is in maintenance please. And for the great weight debate which is borderline Bull, my Honda 25 tiller electric long shaft weighs 152 pounds, the only E-tec 25 that weighs less at 149lbs is the 25 short shaft.

A Rage or whatever.. I would just say it works (period). It's about $11 or so for a 500ml can at Carquest. No, CTC or many others don't carry it, I don't know why. Honestly I was a bit sceptacle at first, I've got an Argo where the engine ran like a septic tank full of you know what. After one heathy dose of the Seafoam and letting it run for 20 minutes or so, (smoked & sputtered for a bit) finally cleared out whatever crud was in the carb, put in a new filter and since then it's been running fine. At first, it would never idle properly or die out at speed. None of that anymore. I've read many others on other sites dealing with lawnmowers, outboards, generators, etc, that swear by it. Talking with the good folks at CTC... , oookkkaaaayyyyy, I might let them check the air pressure on my wheelbarrow, but that's about it. If it didn't work for me, I would be the first to say otherwise, I hate seeing people waste money or getting sucked in on crud that doesn't work.

Well there's two ways of looking at the discrepency. 1. Your present F/F (H2OC) is out to lunch,(doubt it), you said after searching you were unable to find the depth you were looking that was shown on the GPS. 2. GPS can be miserably innacurate at times, so if your GPS is false you may have been out of the indicated area by more than what you thought. Like you indicated, Map chips can be out, sometimes by more than what's expected. Remember a while back some guy just about drove off a small cliff following GPS instructions. Eas way to checlk the F/F, take graduated lengths of rope or fishing line, measure the depth with your F/F and then use the line for compare accuracy. As for the GPS, do some land based exact locting to confirm its accuracy without the chip.

Judging by the water levels in G Bay, I would say it's up at least a foot from last year.

Very sad to loose a family member Wayne, you are right, we should all call more often.

Ya, had an encounter like that a year ago, you need a root canal, unfortunately, no longer in the service with heater in holster to even the level of intimidation, I asked what the option was, $800+ for root canal..$80 for the extraction and it better not hurt. About ten mintes later minus one tooth that I don't miss or have to brush anymore. More room to squirrel away some peanuts.

Ha, newbie at the launch, don't forget there'll always be someone newer than you after a while. The last disaster we saw last week was at Bluffers, a guy using a newer Caddy to trailer a LARGE boat, estimating 22-24 footer, did I say LARGE. The rear rims were squatting under the fenderwells, the muffler was about 1 inch off the pavement. I can just imagine the punishment the transmission must take going back up that hill leaving the park. If he ever had to do some collision avoidance, I'm sure it would make North America's ______ videos. Should have taken a few pics. Anyway, for a "newbie" Bluffers is pretty forgiving, launch the boat, putter out of the harbour, point directly offshore and a bit to the right, you'll see a skinny yellow marker, 50' depth, keep going, launch riggers and fish anywhere around that area. Good luck

Me, in everything unless the mfgr specifically indicates a higher octane requirement. Google what octane actually does in the combustion cycle of an engine and what kind of motors it is intended for.

What... take it to a marine mechanic for advice. Hate to see what happens if your zipper gets stuck. Read the manual, you can get it on line. For the manual go here, scroll down and read page 42. http://www.honda-marine.com/mar_pdf/31ZV7610.pdf

Again, how many walleral pickeleye polls do we need.

Ah, the owners manual, such a plethora of info when all else fails. And then there's the tool kit that comes with the motor, a little grey pouch with a couple wrenches, screwdrivers, plug wrench and oh ya, that long thing that looks like overgrown spagetti with a wooden handle and little plastic clip that attaches to the flywheel..called a pull cord. Instructions should be on the flywheel cover.

Seafoam! Should be able to get it at Carquest or NAPA. Sounds like a Stator coil, makes power..

I believe I have the same thing as you, just a smaller(25) engine. That last 1/4 of throtttle doesn't quite translate into 1/4 more speed, I think it's just the length of the throttle cable and how it's positioned on the linkage. If you check it with the engine off, in gear, and slow rotate the handle on a tiller or remote on a s/c, you'll see what I mean.

Nice fish and photo, you must have given the reel a bit of a workout with that one..

Well if you see the line then at least you know the unit is working. If I remember correctly, the 50hz setting is usually for the much deeper water to get a better signal return. If you're in less than a 100' deep I would stick with the 200hz setting and increase the sensitivity a bit. There's many days I've been out on the water, mark absolutely no fish, but still catching them. It only means the fish aren't in the area covered by the transducer signal.

Nothing like a bit of copy cat..