Fisherman

Green tows..leave your wet boots on long enough and you'll have green tows....

Don't go there...you know those twits in ESSA make you pay to fish the river, all in the name of garbage clean up, yada, yada. Next thing every municipality will be charging extra. Look at Innisfil with their retarded parking prices at IBP.

Beat ya to it, went in to Barrie this morning, sat on my folding chair, launched a Berkley gulp a few times, no action, fed that to a seagull and went with the small 1" perch coloured Slurpee, bingo..just finished a couple of Perchwiches. After numerous tries, Berkley Gulp has found a new resting place, in the garbage..stinky @#*#.

Never ever seen a bass boat go downrigging, but then again, those bass don't really get anywhere near the size of a salmon.

What are you driving? If it has drums on the rear, then yes, maybe you pooched the seal on a brake cylinder, possibly an expanded rubber hose that go between the brake lines and calipers. Also like you said, if you were that low on brake fluid, bad boy, then you may have sucked some air in past the master cylinder seals.

The oil sludge, yes, but I think those big motors would take just a few more drops of gas than a 15hp.

Going green..maybe send this to the bass pros that run around in those 250HP boats at breakneck speed, stop, then roar off to the next spot..talk about a waste of resources.

Wish you both the best..for a looong time to come.

The OP has all but eliminated all the problems exterior to the motor, tried different tanks and hoses on different motors with no malfunction, so that eliminates the tank, the primer, the hose and the fuel pump on the motor in question which he tried on another motor. My best suggestion, if he can get gas to the carb by pumping the primer, then there is a suction leak after the fuel hose connector on the motor up to the fuel pump.

A very knowledgeable angler with a heart as big as the sky, a very sad moment for those who knew him and the LSMB.

Ya, those are pricelss moments, I wish we would have had CCTV and recorders back then, some stuff that no one would believe..

Ya, priceless, worst I had was guy peeing in his pants while blowing in a J3, what do you say...

I did some digging and found a link for you. From the picture and description, part of the exhaust goes down the leg of the motor, into a pipe and exits through the prop which has cut outs on each side close to the center. That's where it can become oily and people think it's a seal leak. Lower unit oil smells like even a very small amount, it's unmistakable. 2 stroke on the other hand can smell a bit "gassy" from being mixed. There's a whole breakdown of info at this site, I just copied the lower unit info. Here's your link: http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/Lower_unit.htm Very important: Another point I found was to NOT remove the middle Phillips screw on the right hand side of the lower unit, if you do, you will have a beetch of a time trying to shift gears, this screw holds the internal shift pivot mechanism.

Before you start, 2 questions, 1. are you sure it's the prop seal, by removing the prop from the shaft and actually seeing oil at the shaft seal? 2. Does the oil have the distinct smell of hypoid oil and is it thick or is it unburnt 2 stroke oil coming out of the exhaust by the interior of the prop?

Go with a 4-6HP, when it gets windy from the front, you'll have difficulty with keeping it in a straight line.

This is the start of the season to look for good deals, people selling because they don't want to store over the winter or looking for something brand new next spring, personally, I'd look for a 4 stroke, the weight isn't much of an issue anymore.

Some vehicles do have separate fuses for the trailer circuits, mainly to protect from botched trailer wiring and, if the trailer is screwed up, it will only affect the trailer lighting and not the tow vehicle. Each vehicle is different, check your manual, you know the little booklet that provides info about your vehicle that you should read.

Whizzin and moanin, I really don't understand why you even bother watching them anymore, you know what the eventual outcome is, you people are suckers for punishment and some even pay to watch them.

Looks like a real nasty line of bad weather moving S/E across the Bruce Peninsula, be prepared.

You're a good man willing to help out.

If I was closer, I would do it for you, any mechanical friends, maybe. If that dealer told you $150 to fix that, he's bad. Those "O" rings don't cost more than a dollar or two.

Might just have to order some batteries, mine are pretty much pooched too, thanks.

Yes, the outside one can be taken off with a small nail, the inside one is a bit more difficult, use a small hook.

Aha, newer motor, thinner oil, just like the cars. Mine must have the older 6 months/100 hr schedule, even though it says, 2 year 400 hr for the filter, I change it each time. No point in putting a dirty band aid on a new wound. Go get a fish or 3

#1, Honda doesn't make oil, it's just re-branded for them, check your manual..the thing you read to learn all about your engine, mine(25) can use 10/30 or 10/40, you can get filters at CTC, about $5.00 instead of $15 at Honda. Whats the point of dumping new oil in a dirty filter. Some of the series use the same filter as the motorcycles.