Tybo

I have a couple of friends that look like that after a night of drinking.

:rofl2:

HA,HA.Your old. Congrates.

Lew,First check to see if any thing else is not working.The horn fuse will be for the horn not the switch, I think you have a main power fuse blown. Touching the two wires together should make the horn work. Two wires the same colour means power in power out.No ground at the switch.

Try backing up a wielder on wheels with a in-closed van.It only sticks out 6-8ft from the bumper and 4ft wide. Once you get it right you will never have a problem hooking up to a trailer you can see.Even off angle.

You sure there not hydropneumatic accumulator.Little hard to be air with out a type of compressor.

I have a hydraulic shock type in the boat.Works pretty good in rough water.

When I was looking for a new boat.I looked at the G3,The only thing I didn`t like about it was the 13 degree dead raise.It felt very heavy in the water do to the amount of drag the low dead raise produced and a little tippy from sitting higher in the water.Most deep V`s have a 17 degree. Other then that it felt good.My Lund is a far superior hull design over all the other boats I drove.

Taper roller bearing where design to with stand prolong side load on the bearing.Since the road is not level the bearing is side loaded. Taper also take a impact far better.Pot holes,curbs,ruff roads and trailer sway.

A screw by what ever means used for, was the wrong solution.

If you be in the trades.A comment like this would get you fired in the tech trades. For there is only one solution.THE RIGHT ONE! If you only what to be a handy man do what ever. Safety depends on the right solution.

I would not buy a bearing if it doesn`t say made in the USA or Germany and preferably Timken Also nothing under APEC 5 for bearing grade.

A truck supply depot will be the cheapest and highest grade.Try Traction

There guy`s out their that will destroy a beautiful 63 Impala`s to try and make them look pretty. So it would only be a improvement from the Chrysler stable.

I got a idea.Why not give the people a 50% tax break.Then they could afford to go see them play.

I have 1's and 2's.None being the same.As For sensitivity I couldn't tell you.For they are different weights and tapers.

Just keep saying do you want to do all that paper work, over and over. Alot of law enforcers will use there discretion.

Dragging a body will work.Wife,sister in-law.The crappy neighbour.

It's basically for cruising speed.The 90 doesn't need to use as much HP to cruise at 38mph,less fuel.where the 60 is wot. Also since you are putting more toque to the water the higher the boat will ride.Less friction better fuel. Engines that don't work as hard usually last longer.

I meant on the boat.Is it a general area or do they randomly crack where they have been welded.There not all the same grade of aluminium.

I was just wondering where do most of the welded boats crack?

The base products are ethylene and chlorine to make PVC.

This charging system do they charge 12 volt or do they come 24 or 36.If they don't do multi you would need on for each deep cycle.

Run the sonar to the cranking battery and use a battery switch between cranking and rigger.Use duel purpose for cranking riggers. I have my boat wired this way.Every thing is wired to the main cranking with one charging bank.A rigger\kicker battery wired with a battery switch.Then a ground wire between the two batteries which allows me to charge each battery with any engine I choose too use. Then switching the switch to all allows the charger to charge both cranking.

There's a hole in the quick removable plate for a padlock. It prevents unscrewing the hold down bracket.