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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/04/2020 in all areas

  1. Exactly Dan. I use to buy stickers every year, driving or not, as I was always afraid Ontario would start mandating safeties if your car hadn't been stickered continuously. I'm just getting some money back for all those wasted paid years that the cars were stored!
    3 points
  2. I can't see how they can collect retroactively. There's no penalty for not plating your vehicle every year; if you're not diving it. That's what I'll be telling them; I didn't need that vehicle during such and such time frame. My 50 Chevy hasn't had a new sticker for the last three years; that its been in for restoration. When I do put it back on the road, I'll just have to pay what's left in my year till my birthday. A friend of my has a 68 Galaxie that hadn't been plated for 20+ plus years. He went in put his normal amount of money down and got his new plate and sticker. No questions asked; not even if the car is fit for the road. Dan
    3 points
  3. Yes, I have canned moose, deer, goose, etc etc etc for decades. They call it canning even though we use Mason jars. But in Newfoundland (and probably other places) they do call it (quite properly) bottled moose. Take raw moose, trim off fat and gristle, and cut it into cubes or chunks about 3/4". Smaller works fine, bigger not so much. Season it with your favourite seasonings - always seasoning salt and garlic, then whatever tickles your fancy. About a heaping tablespoon of raw onion is quite good. If you put onion in the jar, put it about half-way down in the meat. Pack the seasoned meat into clean Mason jars, probably 250 ml but possibly 500 ml or even 1 litre, but a litre of bottled moose is a hell of a lot of meat. Pack it in quite tightly to within about half an inch of the top, add a quarter teaspoon of seasoned salt on top, wipe the jar rims, and top with hot sealing lids. Tighten the sealing rings down snug but not over-tight. Process in a pressure canner for 90 minutes at 10 pounds pressure, and allow the pressure to drop to zero before opening the canner. Use jar tongs to remove the jars from the hot water, and place on a cookie sheet or similar, on a heat-proof surface, and allow them to cool. The lids should "pop" when they seal. Allow to cool completely and check that all of the jars did seal. If you have one that did not seal, put it in the fridge and eat it within a week or so. Take the sealed jars, tighten the sealing rings securely, and store in your pantry. It will keep for several years with no change in quality. This is the standard way to pressure can red meat. It sounds like the OP got some that was done in a hot pack, with liquid. DIFFERENT process entirely, starting with hot product and hot jars, but fill and process the same way. Doug
    3 points
  4. The canned item that still makes me giddy is canned side bacon. And it's AWESOME! The last time I used COSTCO maple flavoured bacon, the big double pack, and cut the slices in half to fit the jars. It worked well, and I needed less weight of raw bacon to make a canner load. And my recipe: CANNED BACON (February 2016) Buy premium bacon to make this. A 5 kg/11 lb box is about right for a canner load. Lay the strips of bacon on aluminum foil, or parchment paper, on cookie sheets in a single layer. Clean-up is about the same for foil and for parchment paper, but the latter is wider and covers larger pans better. Cook the bacon in the oven at 375 for about 20 minutes per pan, until just about fully cooked but not crispy. Cooking bacon in the oven keeps the slices nice and flat. Drain the slices of bacon on paper towel and allow to cool. Take about 24” of parchment paper, cut off the top 2” or so, and lay bacon strips side by side (some overlap is OK) to about the 21” mark or so. The strips should be about ½” shorter than a 500 ml Mason jar, so trim to length with a knife. At this point, with the bacon laid out flat, you can brush it with maple syrup or other flavourings. Fold the parchment paper top and bottom over the bacon, then roll it tightly towards the paper end. It should fit snugly into the (wide mouth!) Mason jar – if it is too tight remove a slice or two, if it is too loose add a slice or two. Take the off-cuts and place them in a shallow jar like a salmon jar that will fit on top of the 500 ml jars in the canner. These pieces, NOT in parchment paper, will be used as bacon bits or whatever. Process the jars at 10 lb pressure for 90 minutes. The jars should seal with no problems, and when cooled off there will be a bit of bacon fat in the bottom of the jars. To use the bacon, open a jar and it can be eaten directly or warmed in the microwave for a few seconds and then eaten like regular cooked bacon. My first batch lasted just fine for over three years in my pantry. It’s DELICIOUS!
    2 points
  5. That's why it makes me giggle. The fat in the bacon is enough liquid to make it work. And it is every bit as good as the canned bacon we used to get in the RP4s! You could do a jar of it when you do a turkey, 100 minutes at 11 is close enough to 90 minutes at 10 pounds pressure. Doug
    1 point
  6. When you run out of electrons on the lake, are you going to try and stuff the Pink Bunny into your battery. Gov't keeps telling us to use less power but all you see is mountains of electric powered junk coming across the Pacific to fill our dumps. Might be ok for very small inland lakes, even then only useful for maybe 6-7 months of the year.
    1 point
  7. 1 point
  8. I'm a lucky man, I frequently get to build one of a kind custom rods for some of the finest hand crafted custom reels made, and all of those reels are made right here in Ontario.
    1 point
  9. Beauty!! How can I get my hands on the matching lemke hardware? Im looking to get my custom rod built this year but I think it’ll take awhile once it’s all completed. I just placed an order for a cts blank 4-8 but who knows how long shipping will be from New Zealand. I received my reel last week and was eager to fish it. Slapped it on my rpx and sent it. First drift and fish on!
    1 point
  10. Sounds like a scumball. Too bad he didn't have to do jail time.
    1 point
  11. Used to have an evinrude 115 fict injection. Never had so many issues with a motor. Made the switch to Yamaha and never looked back. So , no
    1 point
  12. Might be more of a clearance deal than Black Friday but I went into my local Canadian Tire for a roll of hockey tape and came out with a new ice hut! Eskimo Quickfish 2i (insulated) I'm blown away by the quality for the price I paid ($269.99)
    1 point
  13. i brought this up here To me it was clear that B1 didnt take every measure necessary to ensure the mortality rates at its tournament remained low. Especially at a tournament on the st lawrence where the smallies are being caught deep and its hot out. Even worse to hear that they threw the fish in bags into the trash. I know some locals were absolutely livid about what happened here. As much as people like to say that it wouldnt have an impact on a fishery, but killing 100's of the absolute biggest bass in a stretch of water over the course of a weekend does horrific things to a fishery. All it takes is for you to read 1 thread on any bass forum to realize that even treatment of fish in a livewell is totally subjective. Some guys throw their livewell on recirculate all day and hope for the best. Truthfully it somewhat blows my mind because mortality penalties in tournaments are so severe, but the twisted logic some guys have about fish care is terrible at best. At the end of the day its no different than fishing musky on light tackle, or snagging salmon and trout in rivers. Same crowds same result.
    1 point
  14. I think it's time this practice was abolished, no need to play this type of game with nature just for profit and bragging rights.
    1 point
  15. Sinker...If you paint the boat yourself that's one thing. If you paint it for a paying customer and not done properly that's a whole different ball game. I have seen some very unfortunate people asking me to re-do paint jobs that they initially paid big bucks for. Like I said, I try to stay away from painting if I can and source them out to my contacts. I'm not saying not to paint. I'm trying to say be careful do your homework, ensure the shop is reputable and will warranty their work. We have done paint on boats where we have had to repair damage, which meant painting after the repair was done and then replace the decals such as Legend Boats. Yamaha PWC's which have that new light weight NanoexCell body is painted. When we repair the damage to the hull or sides, and we have done a lot lately( because no one else wants to touch them) we have to repaint them. Again, a very expensive job as we use a three part Yamaha OEM paint made by colorite out of the U.S. very durable and specific to ensure adherence to the plastic body and the abuse these wave runners get. We use the same vinyl flooring that Lund Boats use. Can be purchased from any Lund dealer. I'm sure there are others, however we have found it to be durable and nice to work with. A high premium outdoor floor adhesive should suffice however you mentioned aluminum plate flooring. I have never worked with aluminum floors, only wood and fiberglass. So that may be something you want to look into as far as vinyl to aluminum adhesion goes. I do not know anything about that. Wood would be much easier to work with, easier on the feet. Coated properly with fiberglass resin would give you those 20 years again and much cheaper? Also, if the transom is wood, coated and sealed properly, will give you years of no problems. few of pics of different floor and transom repairs may give DIY's some ideas.
    1 point
  16. I re-did my boat 14 years ago. I painted it myself. The prep work was very time consuming, but it makes all the difference. This time I can just give it a clean up, a light sanding and wack the paint to it. The prep of bare alumiinum takes a lot of work, but it is well worth it to do it right. I am tearing mine apart again this winter for another rebuild, and paint touch up. This will be the second time in a 26 year old boat. Where are you guys sourcing your vinyl flooring? And what products are you using to fasten it? This time my boat will be getting a full 3/16 aluminum plate floor, and mostly aluminum storage, with vinyl front to back and top to bottom. I plan to rebuild the transom this this time, not that it needs it, but whats the point of doing everything but the transom at this point? Might go with an engineered product, so I never have to touch it again. After 26 years of fishing and hunting out of this boat, i have a few ideas, and changes i am going to make. I'm kind of excited, and anxious at the same time lol....Everything on it has been upgraded in the last 4 years; electronics(2018), bowmount (2020), engine(2019), trailer (2017)......its time for a makeover. I considered buying new, until I looked at the prices. Then considered buying used, until I looked at the prices, so I will rebuild what i have one more time, and get another 20 years out of it. I love that boat! We have been through some serious stuff together LOL S.
    1 point
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