mamona Posted October 29, 2019 Report Posted October 29, 2019 My motor is Tohatsu 20HP 4 stroke. I've found its manual which does not mention anything about fogging. https://www.tohatsu.com/tech_info/own_man_pdfs/Toh_MFS15D_20D_003-11116-2AG1.pdf So change both oils, use fuel stabilizer, secure batteries and that's it?
lew Posted October 29, 2019 Report Posted October 29, 2019 1 minute ago, mamona said: So change both oils, use fuel stabilizer, secure batteries and that's it? Don't forget to change the oil filter also
mamona Posted October 29, 2019 Author Report Posted October 29, 2019 1 hour ago, lew said: Don't forget to change the oil filter also I changed it few months ago and the motor wasn't used much this season... Forgive me my ignorance, do I still need to change the filter?
DRIFTER_016 Posted October 29, 2019 Report Posted October 29, 2019 I run stabilizer all year long. In the fall, I check the lower unit oil, replace engine oil and filter and remove the spark plugs and spray a bit of fogging fluid in each hole. Turn the engine over with plugs removed to spread the fogging fluid around and put the plugs back in. Put the cover on and fire up the snowmobile!!!!
BillM Posted October 30, 2019 Report Posted October 30, 2019 Really no need to fog a 4 stroke. Change the oil, bottom end oil and you're basically done till the spring. Pulling the plugs and spraying some fogging fluid in there won't hurt anything however, whatever you're comfortable with. 1
GYPSY400 Posted October 30, 2019 Report Posted October 30, 2019 (edited) I agree.. no need to fog a 4 stroke, but it doesn't hurt it. In regards to fuel.. run ethanol free gas ( shell v power) with fuel stabilizer or ( my favorite) sea foam. Run the engine until you know the stabilized gas is through the system, then disconnect the fuel hose and let it run dry. If it's an efi engine DO NOT run it dry..ever Edited October 30, 2019 by GYPSY400 Slow server
mamona Posted October 30, 2019 Author Report Posted October 30, 2019 Thank you guys so much. I think will do fogging next winter if it really helps in my case. On the other note the motor was not used for couple months, staying dry since late spring. Would you guys still recommend run the motor on gas with fuel stabilizer? There should not be any moisture left.
DRIFTER_016 Posted October 30, 2019 Report Posted October 30, 2019 47 minutes ago, mamona said: Thank you guys so much. I think will do fogging next winter if it really helps in my case. On the other note the motor was not used for couple months, staying dry since late spring. Would you guys still recommend run the motor on gas with fuel stabilizer? There should not be any moisture left. The stabilizing keeps varnish from forming and plugging up the small venturis in your carbs or fuel injectors.
north560 Posted October 31, 2019 Report Posted October 31, 2019 Just remove the screw on the carb to drain gas then replace screw.
Sinker Posted October 31, 2019 Report Posted October 31, 2019 (edited) I've never fogged an engine in my life, but why are you guys saying there no need to fog a 4 stroke? I would think there would be more need to fog a 4 stroke than a 2 stroke. A 2 stroke gets oiled every other stroke, a 4 stroke has a crank case full of oil that oils as the engine is running. Wouldn't it be more useful to fog a 4 stroke? I dunno, like I said, I've never fogged an engine in my life. My stuff doesn't sit long enough to need fogging, and I don't think rust can form in a cylinder that is air tight. S. Edit to add: I drain and refill gear case oil. Make sure theres no water in there. Refill if no water. I always run seafoam in my fuel, so that's it, park in the garage, and fire up the sled. S. Edited October 31, 2019 by Sinker
Mister G Posted November 2, 2019 Report Posted November 2, 2019 One important thing to remember is to remove the prop, clean and re-grease the shaft and use a NEW Stainless Steel cotter pin. I didn't do this for 3 years and had a VERY HARD time removing because of corrosion.
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