fixing a leaky tinny

[adolson]

I finally threw my 12' aluminum into the 6' box of my truck and took it down to the lake for a test drive. I bought it 2 or 3 years ago from a guy who refused to sell me just the 2HP Honda motor that I wanted for my Sportspal. Anyhow, long story short, it leaks quite a bit. Enough that I wouldn't feel comfortable without a bilge pump if I'm planning to be on the water for more than a couple hours.

 

I only noticed leaking from the front, which began almost immediately after putting it in the water. I didn't notice leaks anywhere else, but to be sure, I plan to elevate it a bit and put some water in to see where water leaks out. I suspect it'll be leaking along the mid keel, around some rivets, but it could be a seam.

 

My question is, can anyone with experience recommend a specific product? And does the recommendation change based on what, exactly, is leaking?

 

I'd prefer if it's something I can get locally and apply at these lower fall temperatures, though I do have a heat gun and a torch.

 

If nothing specifically is recommended, would JB Marine Weld be a good choice?

[Fisherman]

3M5200.

[Sinker]

^.......or goop.....they both work good enough for a tinny.

 

S.

[irishfield]

Skip the nonsense fixes and just do it right. Reset the rivets and look for any obvious cracks or gaps in seams. I took a 1958 x 12' Reynolds that leaked 3" per day to absolutely dry with 2 hours of work.

 

As Fisherman points out 3m5200 is a good product but will also break your piggybank if you need any quantity at $20 per squeeze tube @ CTC. Basically an equal product, and only $7 per caulking tube, you will find Sikaflex Construction Sealant at Rona. Not quite the Sikaflex 1A I use to build floats but darn close and it seems to work just fine.

 

Find the leaking area, scotchbrite clean, acetone wipe and then apply the Sikaflex.

[Ralph Field]

I used an epoxy repair kit from CTC, but I think the 3M5200 is likely a better choice.

[DanD]

Buck as many of the loose rivets as you can find. If there are cracks; drill stop them (drill small hole at end of crack) and then weld the hole and crack with aluminum brazing rod.

Princess auto sells the rods under the name "PowerWeld".

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/powerweld-1-8-x-18-in-self-fluxing-aluminum-brazing-rods/A-p8471088e

You use a plumber's torch as your heat source and you apply it like solder. The only hard part is making sure the aluminum is 100% clean of dirt and oxidation; after that the stuff sticks like baby crap to a blanket.

 

Dan.

[jtracc]

3M5200.

Yup worked like a charm for me...bone dry now.

[adolson]

Thanks for the input, guys. I will check out the situation and get it fixed up.

[MrSimon]

5200 and other sealers will usually work, but it's messy and not a permanent fix.

 

I think it's better to identify any leaking or loose rivets, drill them out, and replace with aluminum blind end pop rivets with just a dab of 5200. Have any cracks welded.

 

Especially with a small 12' with no floors and things .... it will be easy.

[DRIFTER_016]

5200 and other sealers will usually work, but it's messy and not a permanent fix.

 

I think it's better to identify any leaking or loose rivets, drill them out, and replace with aluminum blind end pop rivets with just a dab of 5200. Have any cracks welded.

 

Especially with a small 12' with no floors and things .... it will be easy.

 

I replace popped rivets on my boat with stainless closed end blind rivets.

They are stronger than the originals. I use either 5200 or sikaflex for sealing.

[irishfield]

Hmmm... it takes 5 QUALITY aircraft Avex blind rivets (and probably 10 of the crap you get at CTC) to equal the strength of 3 solids, I'll give that some thought. Fine to use when you can't get at the other side to form the shop head, but on a tinny there's no excuse to do it half ass.

 

Welding a crack just reduces the original panel to half it's strength, unless you have a way of heat treating.

Edited October 7, 2015 by irishfield

[DRIFTER_016]

Hmmm... it takes 5 QUALITY aircraft Avex blind rivets (and probably 10 of the crap you get at CTC) to equal the strength of 3 solids, I'll give that some thought. Fine to use when you can't get at the other side to form the shop head, but on a tinny there's no excuse to do it half ass.

 

 

 

Most of my boats rivets are near impossible to get to without removing most of the interior.

The 3/16" closed end stainless rivets I'm using require a special rivet gun to install.

I use my neighbours rivet gun as they use one for installing rivets in car window regulators.

Similar to one of these.

 

 

The rivets are rated 967#s shear and 989#'s tensile strength.

 

http://www.hansonrivet.com/closed-end-blind-rivets.htm

[DanD]

Welding a crack just reduces the original panel to half it's strength, unless you have a way of heat treating.

 

That's why I suggested those low temp welding rods.

This is a question not a contradiction; would the 700° working temp of these rods change the composition of the aluminum that melts at a little better then 1200°?

It's not like a tig where your melting the parent metal and adding filler?

Like I said this stuff works like solder. The first demo I saw on these rods; a guy punched a hole through the bottom of a pop can. Warmed the can until the rod would melt when it touched the can without the flame. In less then 10 seconds the hole was filled and there was no discoloration of the can's bottom.

 

Dan.

[Bass Tard]

I've used G-flex epoxy from West systems with great luck on mine. I always keep some around incase of tough times on a trip..