Need a bit of help with the front mount trolling motor

[davey buoy]

I bought a Minn Kota front trolling motor.Having bought the 54" length,it can only be mounted on the starboard side.Inside the boat the centre window opens out from right to left.Not enough clearance.Thank goodness I did not go for the 60".Having not looked this entirely through,I have a centre glove box if you will that runs from the step up all the way to the front.Were talking 6' plus right to the bow.

Now my problem is a thin guy like me (lol)can no where near fit in this box, and again reach 6' plus to hold a nut.What are my best options on mounting the mka-21 to the boat?.I was thinking some PL deck and board caulking being water proof and in my experiance holds really darn well,plus adding 4 good size screws through the fibreglass.Not worrying about taking it off at a later date.The block would go with the boat if I choose to sell at a later date.

Thanks for any ideas guys.I'm in a bit of a delima at this point.

Edited April 21, 2014 by davey buoy

[musky666]

I just mounted a removable base for my new Terrova on my Starcraft but had an access panel near the small bow platform- still had to have my girl reach in and work the washers and all while I tightened from the top, I think there are speed nuts or a fastener that fits into a hole in the deck- and is squashed when you tighten a bolt into it- causing it to swell and hold tight...

[irishfield]

They are called Well Nuts... or rivnuts... another option would be some HD toggle bolts if you truly can't access the spot. Glue ain't gonna cut it...

www.spaenaur.com/pdf/sectionC/C147.pdf Edited April 21, 2014 by irishfield

[davey buoy]

 

They are called Well Nuts... or rivnuts... another option would be some HD toggle bolts if you truly can't access the spot. Glue ain't gonna cut it...

www.spaenaur.com/pdf/sectionC/C147.pdf

 

They similar to the winged drywall bolts?Drive them through and they spring out?Tighten the top flathead or whatever till the wings are tight on the underside.No access Wayne,if there was a shot,I'd have someone sneak through.It's over the length of two 6' paddles deep.

[davey buoy]

Well nut looks like the answer.Available at any industrial store I would think?,Bdi?,Bolts plus,Brafascoe to name a couple.

[irishfield]

Yah... you should be able to get those down the street at Brofascoe.. or Fastenal, although they may have to order them in for you.

[Sinker]

Id be leary of that motor not being bolted thru with backers myself.

 

You ever see the bill dance blooper vid where his comes off? LOL

 

Ive seen one come off a mounting plate going 30mph down the lake in a big chop too....scary to say the least.

 

S.

[DRIFTER_016]

Here's an idea.

Is there room to install an access hatch?

If so, just mount one of these close the the mounting location and you should have no problem accessing the back side of the mounting location.

 

http://duckworksbbs.com/hardware/hatches/sd337140-150-160/index.htm

 

[dhickey]

Would you be willing to cut into your bow a little bit in order to add support to your mounting bolts?

 

Ive used Toggler high performance toggle bolts in several tricky situations at work and never once had a problem.

 

I would make a plate to go under your mount to sit on top of your bow.

The plate and mount would be secured to the bow using the toggles.

 

I think it could be done without adding support under the bow and cutting into it using PL in combination with the toggles but that's to hard to try and explain on a computer.

 

If this sounds like an option Pm me your # and I will explain it to you.

 

Don.

[leaf4]

+1 for the toggles, they are plenty strong. if you don't mind drilling a 1/2" hole or 4. I've used them in a number of instances around the house and at work using them to hang runs of duct in certain situations where it was necessary to hang off drywall and they worked flawlessly.

 

http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php

 

also I did a quick search on my Home Depot app, all I could find was a hilti product, very expensive these ones will do the trick and are cheaper, available at Lowes

Edited April 22, 2014 by leaf4

[HTHM]

If the void is filled with foam the spring part of the nut will not deploy. If is does try to have them at 90 degrees to one another to spread the load more evenly.

[leaf4]

If the void is filled with foam the spring part of the nut will not deploy. If is does try to have them at 90 degrees to one another to spread the load more evenly.

these ones do not require a spring they are snap toggles and hold themselves in place once snapped in and there is excess plastic parts you then dispose of

[dhickey]

these ones do not require a spring they are snap toggles and hold themselves in place once snapped in and there is excess plastic parts you then dispose of

 

They can also grab up to 4 inch thick material .(Brafasco )

Check them out.

 

AND yes if the void is filled with foam it does become difficult thus the question.

Do you want to cut into your bow??

[davey buoy]

Thanks gentlemen for the responses.Dave,great idea,but not quite sure I want to add that trap door yet.The well nuts and toggles are very interesting and will look at those options first.The drive thru with the spring loaded wings may be the easiest,but not sure.Will get back as to what I end up using.

[fishnsled]

My old trolling motor was held on by Well Nuts for 10 years and never a problem, came that way from the dealer. When I mounted the new motor on I was concerned about how strong they where and if they would hold up to the additional torque of the new motor. (54 pounds to 70 pounds of thrust) I had the room and access to used bolts.

 

Just found this via Google - A #10 well nut in 3/8"" thick sheet is 260lbs of strength. A #10 Jack Nut in 3/16" sheet is 640 lbs strength, might be worth looking into these as an option.

[davey buoy]

My old trolling motor was held on by Well Nuts for 10 years and never a problem, came that way from the dealer. When I mounted the new motor on I was concerned about how strong they where and if they would hold up to the additional torque of the new motor. (54 pounds to 70 pounds of thrust) I had the room and access to used bolts.

 

Just found this via Google - A #10 well nut in 3/8"" thick sheet is 260lbs of strength. A #10 Jack Nut in 3/16" sheet is 640 lbs strength, might be worth looking into these as an option.

With the well nuts,do I need to know the thickness of the material I'm going through?Sounds like I do.So as what I've looked at per Wayne's link.They expand inside the drilled hole,not on the open bottom/straight through hole.So for arguments sake the front bow is 3" thick.What size would I be looking at?Thanks

[irishfield]

Yes.. you need to know the thickess as they have a head on them that stops them from falling thru. The "nut" end has to make it beyond the material thickness so when you tighten it up it expands to form a locking head below the material you're bolting to. So you need to know the overall material thickness and then pick a Well Nut of the appropriate "Grip Range". They expand below the hole.. not in it... for retention, although in some applications you can use them in a blind hole. This use wouldn't be a good time to try that...

Edited April 22, 2014 by irishfield

[davey buoy]

Yes.. you need to know the thickess as they have a head on them that stops them from falling thru. The "nut" end has to make it beyond the material thickness so when you tighten it up it expands to form a locking head below the material you're bolting to. They expand below the hole.. not in it... for retention.

Thanks for clearing that up.Would this allow to remove the plate at a later date?.Or are they a one time install?

[fishnsled]

Wayne has you covered. You need to know the thickness with both the jack nut and well nut. The jack nut is a bit more involved for the installation as well. Needs to be torqued down and a special tool to hold it in place makes it easier while you set it in place.

[irishfield]

Generally they will tighten up into place and retain that shape... allowing you to remove the bolts and reinstall them. There are different types.. some are all metal.. some are heavy rubber. The ones I use in aircraft, when I have no choice, are called rivnuts and you put them in place with a rivet gun style puller. Then you have a captive nut after that. The link I grabbed for Well Nuts above are Neoprene.. so they may just straighten back out once loosened like the drain plug in your boat. Loosen.. push the bolt down and lift up by the well nut collar.

Edited April 22, 2014 by irishfield

[davey buoy]

Generally they will tighten up into place and retain that shape... allowing you to remove the bolts and reinstall them. There are different types.. some are all metal.. some are heavy rubber. The ones I use in aircraft, when I have no choice, are called rivnuts and you put them in place with a rivet gun style puller. Then you have a captive nut after that. The link I grabbed for Well Nuts above are Neoprene.. so they may just straight back put once loosened like the drain plug in your boat. Loosen.. push the bolt down and lift up by the well nut collar.

Thanks for clearing that up.Reason I ask is for shimming purposes if I find it is not sitting just right when motor is installed and in use.

[HTHM]

Now that I followed the link Wayne provided, I feel like a dummy for giving the feedback I gave. Completely different than what I was thinking of. Those would work great!
(Today was not a waste, I learned something.)

[davey buoy]

Now that I followed the link Wayne provided, I feel like a dummy for giving the feedback I gave. Completely different than what I was thinking of. Those would work great!

(Today was not a waste, I learned something.)

No worries,I'm still learning everyday lol.Just never had a install like this.