adding brakes to trailer

[ch312]

while my boat isn't really that heavy (2500-2700lbs?) and the truck (ram 1500) can handle it, i'd like to add electric brakes to the trailer for any future "what if" scenario and to extend the life of my trucks brakes. but, i haven't a clue what i need to buy. all i need to do is add the brakes and run wires as i already have a controller and 7pin.

 

what do i need to measure to find the right drum assembly for my trailer?

do i need to add brakes to both sides of the axle or just one side?

any brands to stay away from?

[Skipper D]

while my boat isn't really that heavy (2500-2700lbs?) and the truck (ram 1500) can handle it, i'd like to add electric brakes to the trailer for any future "what if" scenario and to extend the life of my trucks brakes. but, i haven't a clue what i need to buy. all i need to do is add the brakes and run wires as i already have a controller and 7pin.

 

what do i need to measure to find the right drum assembly for my trailer?

do i need to add brakes to both sides of the axle or just one side?

any brands to stay away from?

 

 

This same thing came up on the board here not to long ago , not sure how handy you are ?? but the easy thing to do would be measure from the center of the leaf spring on the one side over to the leaf spring center on the other side , then go buy your self a new axle with brakes on it that measures the same leaf spring centers as your s that you have now , then put your old axle on kijiji for sale and get some of your money back . PS you should pick up four new U bolts while your at it .

Edited May 5, 2012 by Skipper " D "

[DRIFTER_016]

You will need to know what axle is on your trailer in order to get the correct size brakes. i.e. 2000#, 2200#, 3500#.

 

Lots of choices for 3500# axles (which I would think yours is but best to check and make sure.

 

Check out eTrailer.com for some info and if needed just give them a call and they should be able to help you out.

[kickingfrog]

I have also wondered about this. How practical, likely and economical is it to just find and buy a new trailer with electric brakes and sell the old one?

[Skipper D]

Don't quote me here but two leaft springs means you have a 2500lb axle and three means you have a 3500lb axle ............ or as long as your hubs have not been changed , a five bolt rim on a trailer means you have a 2500 lb axle and a six bolt rim means you have the 3500lb axle , maybe some one eles can conferm this .................................

Edited May 5, 2012 by Skipper " D "

[SBCregal]

princess auto sells hub/drum kits for electrical brake trailers. crawl underneat your and see if it has bolt holes to mount them. if it does you're gold, about 300 bucks or so to get all the parts you need.

[Fisherman]

Don't quote me here but two leaft springs means you have a 2500lb axle and three means you have a 3500lb axle ............ or as long as your hubs have not been changed , a five bolt rim on a trailer means you have a 2500 lb axle and a six bolt rim means you have the 3500lb axle , maybe some one eles can conferm this .................................

The number of leaves in a spring pack has nothing to do with the load carrying capacity. Some trucks have more than others with the same carry capacity. Same goes for trailers. Same with bolt holes. I have a 5 bolt hub, it's a 3500lb axle, so that ones shot too.

 

In addition, if you have the square plates already welded in place behind the hubs on the axle, then you can add the brake package very easily. If not, it's probably easier to swap axles. You can custom order at Princess Auto.

Edited May 5, 2012 by Fisherman

[smally21]

5 bolt=3500

6 bolt=5200

8 bolt=6500

the post and places to buy the parts was on a while ago.

 

replace the entire axle with a braked axle is the easiest.

 

swapping the hub and brake assy is cheapest.

 

you have a 3500 lb axle, parts are almost always standard

 

spring centre and spring length is only measurement required (as long as the offset is standard) most likely

 

two wires down one side, then across the axle.

 

i dont think it would ever be worth swapping out the trailer with another, who knows..its only a couple hundred dollars and a few hours...

if the deal was there i suppose.

 

wish i still had the shop i could meet all kinds of OFNer's and do this job for rye bottles..

Edited May 5, 2012 by smally21

[ch312]

awesome, thanks for the help. i'll take a look under there tomorrow for the plates.

 

it's a 2006 bear trailer for my 16.5ft boat and 5 bolt

[smally21]

if you dont mind the drive to milton, try Cerka Industries for parts.

 

local to you would be trailer world (its near the TSC on the east side of brantford). decent guys, supply alot of Dexter parts. if you took the trailer there they would likely know what you need with a quick look...

[DanD]

It is a good idea installing brakes, you’ll like them during heavy braking; but you’ll also need to maintain them. This would mean a couple of inspections, cleaning and adjustments a season; maybe more if the drums have seen a lot of water. Not that electric brakes are that troublesome but they were never meant to be submerged in water and then sit in a parking lot soaking wet for 8-10 hours while you’re fishing.

I would also suggest that you buy a system that the internal metal components are made from corrosion resistant material, such as galvanized or stainless steel. The shoe friction material is not a metallic composition but organic and the actuating electromagnet should be of a type that is ok to be dunked.

You may regret buying a cheep system like what you’d find at Princess; due to rusting and seized actuators; the electromagnet becoming inoperative due to water intrusion; corroded internal windings or the rust blowing the magnet apart. Why organic material shoes; metallic friction will rust very quickly and possibly lock themselves to the drum; yes even after only a few hours while you’re out fishing. Nothing worse then having to drag a trailer tire into the ramp, so that the weight of the boat will hopefully break the wheel fee.

One other down side of electric or any boat trailer brakes; be ready and willing to sit at the boat ramp waiting for the brake drums to cool before launching. Hot to the touch drums (as in almost burning fingers) and cold water don’t mix; not without warping the drums and turning then egg shaped.

Just a few things to check and think on before you have them installed.

 

Dan.

[DRIFTER_016]

It is a good idea installing brakes, you’ll like them during heavy braking; but you’ll also need to maintain them. This would mean a couple of inspections, cleaning and adjustments a season; maybe more if the drums have seen a lot of water. Not that electric brakes are that troublesome but they were never meant to be submerged in water and then sit in a parking lot soaking wet for 8-10 hours while you’re fishing.

I would also suggest that you buy a system that the internal metal components are made from corrosion resistant material, such as galvanized or stainless steel. The shoe friction material is not a metallic composition but organic and the actuating electromagnet should be of a type that is ok to be dunked.

You may regret buying a cheep system like what you’d find at Princess; due to rusting and seized actuators; the electromagnet becoming inoperative due to water intrusion; corroded internal windings or the rust blowing the magnet apart. Why organic material shoes; metallic friction will rust very quickly and possibly lock themselves to the drum; yes even after only a few hours while you’re out fishing. Nothing worse then having to drag a trailer tire into the ramp, so that the weight of the boat will hopefully break the wheel fee.

One other down side of electric or any boat trailer brakes; be ready and willing to sit at the boat ramp waiting for the brake drums to cool before launching. Hot to the touch drums (as in almost burning fingers) and cold water don’t mix; not without warping the drums and turning then egg shaped.

Just a few things to check and think on before you have them installed.

 

Dan.

 

 

If you really want to do it right go with disk brakes instead of drums.

There's a reason most factory installed boat trailer brakes are disk and not drum.

The only caveat is that they are hydrolic which means installing either a hydrolic surge actuator (reasonable) or an electric over hydrolic actuator (spendy) if you want electric brakes.

 

Something like This Kit would be the most reliable and most cost effective solution.

[smally21]

while all comments are right on the money, and you cant dispute that you should do all those things..

 

How many people do you think maintain their trailer brakes several times a year, if at all.

 

 

How often do you see a guy sitting at the ramp for hours waiting for his brakes to cool? (and why are they that hot in the first place?)

 

How many thousands of boat trailers out there have electric brakes? Every braking system is near completely exposed to the elements and gets soaking inside and out every time it rains, and sits soaking wet after use..ever dry off your car's brakes?

 

What percentage of braking systems lock up, rust out, warp, blow magnets apart, etc? (without reasonable age or neglect)

 

My point being that while all are true, the majority of trailer owners will preform little maintenance, and can generally expect a decent lifespan from their brakes. MUCH longer if they follow the sound advice of the previous posters..

 

In many years of having the trailer shop, I saw almost none of the conditions described. (to be fair - most of our work was on newer equipment - or else we'd advise replacement anyway). and in the rare case these things occurred, replacement was quick and rarely that expensive.

 

If I haven't said it already, not knocking or disputing any of the points made previously!

Edited May 8, 2012 by smally21

[35Wailin]

Don't quote me here but two leaft springs means you have a 2500lb axle and three means you have a 3500lb axle ............ or as long as your hubs have not been changed , a five bolt rim on a trailer means you have a 2500 lb axle and a six bolt rim means you have the 3500lb axle , maybe some one eles can conferm this .................................

 

I just replaced the original 2500# axles on my travel trailer today with a pair of 3500's. Same 5 bolt pattern.

 

You should have some form if axle identification stating the load capacity of the axle.

 

Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't the HTA state that any trailer rated over 1500 pounds has to have brakes?

[DRIFTER_016]

 

 

Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't the HTA state that any trailer rated over 1500 pounds has to have brakes?

 

I believe it is required over 3000#.

On my camper brakes were optional and it weighs in at about 2500#.

[Gerry]

If you want brakes on a boat trailer, get surge brakes. Electric brakes is a bad idea for trailers that will be submerged. Surge brakes system is what all manufacturers put on their trailers.

[35Wailin]

I believe it is required over 3000#.

On my camper brakes were optional and it weighs in at about 2500#.

 

 

I stand corrected, from the HTA on elaws.gov.on.ca:

 

Trailer or semi-trailer

 

(5) Every trailer or semi-trailer having a gross weight of 1,360 kilograms or more shall be equipped with brakes adequate to stop and to hold the vehicle. R.S.O. 1990, c. H.8, s. 64 (5).

[ch312]

If you want brakes on a boat trailer, get surge brakes. Electric brakes is a bad idea for trailers that will be submerged. Surge brakes system is what all manufacturers put on their trailers.

 

yes, but surge brakes are no good for backing up hills, require messy flushing, useless if the trailer decides to wag side to side, no good for hilly terrain, and i like having total control. i've compared them both and there's far more advantages with electric than surge, even if i do need to watch the electrics closer.

 

 

i have the plates on my axles for mounting brakes so i'll be buying quality electric brakes this summer sometime.

[Gerry]

yes, but surge brakes are no good for backing up hills, require messy flushing, useless if the trailer decides to wag side to side, no good for hilly terrain, and i like having total control. i've compared them both and there's far more advantages with electric than surge, even if i do need to watch the electrics closer.

 

 

i have the plates on my axles for mounting brakes so i'll be buying quality electric brakes this summer sometime.

 

I guess you haven't had a trailer with surge brakes lately, huh? They all have a switch out solenoid that deactivates the brakes when backing up. And flushing? Really? I've owned trailers with surge brakes for the past 15 years....never had to do that once.

[irishfield]

I guess you haven't had a trailer with surge brakes lately, huh? They all have a switch out solenoid that deactivates the brakes when backing up. And flushing? Really? I've owned trailers with surge brakes for the past 15 years....never had to do that once.

 

Yep.... and when's the last time your flushed your vehicle brake system? I still have fluid from 1970 in a couple cars..

 

As for trailer sway... yes I love an electric slide if that happens, but you can get similar by a tap on the brakes if you have good surge brakes.

[Terry]

ELECTRIC OR HYDRAULIC?

 

Trailer brakes fall into two categories; electric (controlled by a brake control in the tow vehicle) and hydraulic surge (actuated by a special trailer coupler with no control from the tow car). Typically, hydraulic surge brakes are fitted to boat trailers and rental utility trailers.

 

In the past, boat trailers relied heavily on surge brakes setups because it was thought that the electric brake components mounted in the wheel (the shoes, arms, magnet and related springs and parts) would rust quickly because they are constantly dipped in water when the boat is launched. Today, however, more marine trailer builders are installing electric brake systems because brake manufacturers have started offering corrosion-resistant brake components such as galvanized or stainless steel metal parts coupled with rare-earth magnets.

[DRIFTER_016]

ELECTRIC OR HYDRAULIC?

 

Trailer brakes fall into two categories; electric (controlled by a brake control in the tow vehicle) and hydraulic surge (actuated by a special trailer coupler with no control from the tow car). Typically, hydraulic surge brakes are fitted to boat trailers and rental utility trailers.

 

In the past, boat trailers relied heavily on surge brakes setups because it was thought that the electric brake components mounted in the wheel (the shoes, arms, magnet and related springs and parts) would rust quickly because they are constantly dipped in water when the boat is launched. Today, however, more marine trailer builders are installing electric brake systems because brake manufacturers have started offering corrosion-resistant brake components such as galvanized or stainless steel metal parts coupled with rare-earth magnets.

 

Don't forget the hybrid electric over hydraulic.

The system is hydraulic with an electric actuator instead of a surge activator.

All electrics are on the tongue.

[Terry]

yeah they are the best of the best