NAW Posted January 26, 2012 Report Posted January 26, 2012 Been following this thread since the beginning. It has been quite the build and looks amazing. Clearly tons of thought and effort put in and I hope it serves you well for many years! Thanks so much for sharing! -AA. Post #420... Reminds me of the olden days.
Fishnwire Posted January 26, 2012 Author Report Posted January 26, 2012 Definitely shaping up to be a nice cabin there btw, is that a can crusher I see attached to the wall beside the door ? Thanks. Yeah...that's a can crusher. And not one from the dollar store. This one crushes cans, instead of being crushed by cans. Unlike the shack, its already been tried out a few times.
Fishnwire Posted January 26, 2012 Author Report Posted January 26, 2012 You pull a permit for that wiring?? .. and no GFCI... Same can crusher I have at the camp! I was going to put a GFCI on the outside and wire the rest through it so they are all protected but was worried about nuisance tripping. As an electrician I see it all the time. I might try one later and see how it goes.
Fishnwire Posted January 26, 2012 Author Report Posted January 26, 2012 ive never built an ice shack before....but ....do you think it might be wise to clad the bottom foot of the exterior plywood to keep it from delaminating with aluminium because when it is being towed out to site...im sure it going to get wet....does the bottom of the door have a treatment to it of some sort to stop it from swelling when the door is closed and sitting in snow or a puddle thats going to be inevitable from tracking it in... im just thinking out loud....keep up the good work edit to add..im sure even aluminum facia(6 inch) installed upside down would offer adequate propection but it would have to be caulked on the top The plywood is treated with high quality oil deck stain, including the edges. I plan on re-staining it this summer and every season or two after that. I might do something with the interior OSB paneling later too. I'll keep an eye on things and see what needs to be done. To be honest I had considered (still am) something like what you suggested...cladding the bottom 6 inches to a foot with some kind of metal sheeting. It will probably have to wait until next year though.
Fishnwire Posted January 26, 2012 Author Report Posted January 26, 2012 Hi fishNwire! I'm back. Don't forget to tighten that L-16 (bx) connector where the drill is plugged in or I cannot pass the wiring job. lol Can't wait to see the "Palace on the ice" It has been tightened since the pic was taken. Good eye though. Thanks.
Lip-ripper Posted January 26, 2012 Report Posted January 26, 2012 Make sure you have a rigid tow bar to pull it with. We moved ours on Nipissing once with a tow strap and got a ticket for it... brutal.
Billy Bob Posted January 26, 2012 Report Posted January 26, 2012 Make sure you have a rigid tow bar to pull it with. We moved ours on Nipissing once with a tow strap and got a ticket for it... brutal. On the LAKE....you got a friggin TICKET on the LAKE....now that's funny...
Lip-ripper Posted January 26, 2012 Report Posted January 26, 2012 Yep, the OPP were sitting on sleds nailing people repositioning their shacks after a big wind storm a few years ago. They made a mint that day. Glad you found it amusing!
Fishnwire Posted January 26, 2012 Author Report Posted January 26, 2012 Make sure you have a rigid tow bar to pull it with. We moved ours on Nipissing once with a tow strap and got a ticket for it... brutal. I wasn't planning on putting one on until next season. The more I think about it though... I really should rig something up before I move it very far. It's only going a couple hundred feet from shore on Tuesday, so I shouldn't have any problems. Once I want to move it downriver I'll need something to keep it from slamming into the back of my jeep when I stop. That would suck for both my Jeep and the shack. I wish I knew how to weld.
Fishnwire Posted January 26, 2012 Author Report Posted January 26, 2012 Yep, the OPP were sitting on sleds nailing people repositioning their shacks after a big wind storm a few years ago. They made a mint that day. Glad you found it amusing! I guess it is the law. There's no law that says I can't tug it a hundred feet at a time using my winch though. The rigid tow bar was going to happen sooner or later...I guess it'll be sooner, that's all. Thanks for nothing, clear-thinking OFNers...now I've got another little project to spend time and money on.
DRIFTER_016 Posted January 27, 2012 Report Posted January 27, 2012 I guess it is the law. There's no law that says I can't tug it a hundred feet at a time using my winch though. The rigid tow bar was going to happen sooner or later...I guess it'll be sooner, that's all. Thanks for nothing, clear-thinking OFNers...now I've got another little project to spend time and money on. You can do it on the cheap with no welding fishNwire. Grab yourself 2 pieces of 1/4"X2" flat bar. On one end drill a 1" hole to fit over your 1" threaded rod. Mark and drill a hole for a large pin like the ones used for securing the ski bars on the old sled trailers or the pins used to hold your draw bar into your tariler hitch. I would put a big washer between the 2" bar stock and retaining pin. On the other end drill 2 holes in each bar to line up with the mounting holes on a trailer coupler that will fit your hitch. Bolt it up with 4 bolts and Bob's yer uncle!!! You got a solid hitch with now welding and very little fab time and $$$$ into it. Try and keep the 2" bars as short as you can to keep their strength. If you have to you can always bend a piece to make a brace at the mid point to stiffen it up. Just bolt it in place with a couple of bolts on each side.
Billy Bob Posted January 27, 2012 Report Posted January 27, 2012 Yep, the OPP were sitting on sleds nailing people repositioning their shacks after a big wind storm a few years ago. They made a mint that day. Glad you found it amusing! SORRY....not laughing at you but at the thought of getting a ticket in the middle of a frozen lake....you got to admit that's funny... Reminded my of a friend who years ago was going down his street and passed a cop then pulled into his driveway. The cop turned around and gave him a ticket in his own driveway for a expired inspection sticker..... ...now that's funny too....
Billy Bob Posted January 27, 2012 Report Posted January 27, 2012 (edited) You can do it on the cheap with no welding fishNwire. Grab yourself 2 pieces of 1/4"X2" flat bar. On one end drill a 1" hole to fit over your 1" threaded rod. Mark and drill a hole for a large pin like the ones used for securing the ski bars on the old sled trailers or the pins used to hold your draw bar into your tariler hitch. I would put a big washer between the 2" bar stock and retaining pin. On the other end drill 2 holes in each bar to line up with the mounting holes on a trailer coupler that will fit your hitch. Bolt it up with 4 bolts and Bob's yer uncle!!! You got a solid hitch with now welding and very little fab time and $$$$ into it. Try and keep the 2" bars as short as you can to keep their strength. If you have to you can always bend a piece to make a brace at the mid point to stiffen it up. Just bolt it in place with a couple of bolts on each side. Only problem I see is for the average guy drilling a 1" hole through 1/4" stock...that a big hole in a piece of iron....hope he has a good drill press and some nice bits.... Edited January 27, 2012 by Billy Bob
DRIFTER_016 Posted January 27, 2012 Report Posted January 27, 2012 Only problem I see is for the average guy drilling a 1" hole through 1/4" stock...that a big hole in a piece of iron....hope he has a good drill press and some nice bits.... It can be done fairly easily with a 1" hole saw, slow rpms on the drill and some oil for lubrication.
Fishnwire Posted January 27, 2012 Author Report Posted January 27, 2012 You can do it on the cheap with no welding fishNwire. Grab yourself 2 pieces of 1/4"X2" flat bar. On one end drill a 1" hole to fit over your 1" threaded rod. Mark and drill a hole for a large pin like the ones used for securing the ski bars on the old sled trailers or the pins used to hold your draw bar into your tariler hitch. I would put a big washer between the 2" bar stock and retaining pin. On the other end drill 2 holes in each bar to line up with the mounting holes on a trailer coupler that will fit your hitch. Bolt it up with 4 bolts and Bob's yer uncle!!! You got a solid hitch with now welding and very little fab time and $$$$ into it. Try and keep the 2" bars as short as you can to keep their strength. If you have to you can always bend a piece to make a brace at the mid point to stiffen it up. Just bolt it in place with a couple of bolts on each side. I've been sitting here thinking about something like that. My Brother-in-law has a crapload of metal stock at his place...I'm gonna go out there and have a look at what he's got and maybe that'll give me some ideas. I'll also go to Princess Auto and get a trailer tongue and look at that. Thanks for the ideas. When you say..."Mark and drill a hole for a large pin like the ones used for securing the ski bars on the old sled trailers"...you mean drill the hole in the threaded rod, right? Only problem I see is for the average guy drilling a 1" hole through 1/4" stock...that a big hole in a piece of iron....hope he has a good drill press and some nice bits.... I've got a set of Greenlee carbide tipped hole saws that I'll have no problem drilling those holes with. I won't need a press...I've made bigger holes through thicker, harder stuff at work using similar bits and a cordless drill.
moparhawk Posted January 27, 2012 Report Posted January 27, 2012 I haven't seen any discussion on naming it yet. You must have a name!
DRIFTER_016 Posted January 27, 2012 Report Posted January 27, 2012 When you say..."Mark and drill a hole for a large pin like the ones used for securing the ski bars on the old sled trailers"...you mean drill the hole in the threaded rod, right? Yep, through the threaded rod to keep it from sliding off the rod. You could always just thread on a nylock nut but this will make installation and removal a 2 second chore and you won't need to break out the wrench.
wormdunker Posted January 27, 2012 Report Posted January 27, 2012 I won't be able to visit this week end to view the palace. LOL Got an important date with the perch on Callandar both Sat & Sun. R U launching soon? Got an idea for a name. "$$$ Pit" No disrespect but this palace must cost a fortune. My plywood/tarp thingy/hut is the cost of 1 of your windows! HA HA
Billy Bob Posted January 27, 2012 Report Posted January 27, 2012 I won't be able to visit this week end to view the palace. LOL Got an important date with the perch on Callandar both Sat & Sun. R U launching soon? Got an idea for a name. "$$$ Pit" No disrespect but this palace must cost a fortune. My plywood/tarp thingy/hut is the cost of 1 of your windows! HA HA It been named already....after Kyle's grandmother...forget the name right now but if read back it's in there.
Mikeyfish Posted January 27, 2012 Report Posted January 27, 2012 It is great having a friend on the shore to leave your ice hut for the off season. Is your shack going to be finish on the outside so it looks nice in his yard and would it be useable in the summer months for their company, like someplace for the extra kids to stay or a change room for swimmers. I like the size, it is a great family and party size
Fishnwire Posted January 28, 2012 Author Report Posted January 28, 2012 I haven't seen any discussion on naming it yet. You must have a name! Billy Bob is right. The name is "Ice-9" which is a nod to Kurt Vonnegut Jr, but in honour of my Grandmother.
Fishnwire Posted January 28, 2012 Author Report Posted January 28, 2012 I won't be able to visit this week end to view the palace. LOL Got an important date with the perch on Callandar both Sat & Sun. R U launching soon? Got an idea for a name. "$$$ Pit" No disrespect but this palace must cost a fortune. My plywood/tarp thingy/hut is the cost of 1 of your windows! HA HA Tuesday is supposed to be launch day. My tilt-and-load guy is getting work done on his truck and hopes (but can't be sure) it will be ready. I guess it would depend on what you consider "a fortune"...but yeah, I've got a few bucks into it. It's funny you mention the windows, because I paid $15 total ($5 each) for them. They're one of the few things I got on the cheap. Good luck on Callandar.
Fishnwire Posted January 28, 2012 Author Report Posted January 28, 2012 Yep, through the threaded rod to keep it from sliding off the rod. You could always just thread on a nylock nut but this will make installation and removal a 2 second chore and you won't need to break out the wrench. I'm going to try something like that Dave...thanks.
Fishnwire Posted January 28, 2012 Author Report Posted January 28, 2012 (edited) It is great having a friend on the shore to leave your ice hut for the off season. Is your shack going to be finish on the outside so it looks nice in his yard and would it be useable in the summer months for their company, like someplace for the extra kids to stay or a change room for swimmers. I like the size, it is a great family and party size As far as I'm concerned it already "looks nice on the outside"...but your point is well taken. I've considered aluminum or vinyl siding. It looks great and adds protection. The outside walls are treated with oil deck stain, but siding makes it look like a little "building" and not a "shack". I've thought about using it in the summer, but the layout is specific for ice fishing and other than a sleep camp, I can't see it being of much use. I have a camp 100 kms or so north, and spend my time in the summer there. It's a huge effort to get in on snow-machines (I have to break trail with my 79 year old Father-in-law on his pig of a touring sled) and the ice-fishing is not good, so the shack is so somewhere comfy to go in the winter. Besides, the river is near deserted in the winter, but has too much traffic for my liking in the summer. Edited January 28, 2012 by fishNwire
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