mike rousseau Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 (edited) Just wondering about a ball park price to get a carb cleaned... My 2000 Honda 40hp outboard I believe it has a plugged pilot jet... At idle it was chugging and there was gas leaking from the middle carb At full throttle it was smooth as can be and no gas leaking... I'm wondering if this is a simple job I can tackle... Or how much it would cost to get a marina to do it... I've read that after the carb is put back together you need some vacuum tool to tune in the carb... This is why I'm leaning towards getting a pro to do it... Edited September 2, 2011 by Musky Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecmilley Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 usually they charge about an hour a carb, carbs a pretty straight forward, but if you have no expierence at it buy the manual or just take it in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danc Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 Seafoam. $8.99 at NAPA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRIFTER_016 Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 (edited) It's not difficult to do yourself really. I had to do my buddies carbs on his 50hp Yamaha in the spring because he sucked up some water last year and left it. Carbs ended up with gelled gas in them because of this. He learned a valuable lesson as I saved him a ton of $$$$$. I had to strip them down and hose them with carb cleaner (I didn't bother to mess with the mixture screws)Removed the float bowl, float and needle. Reassebled and all was well. FYI Your problem sounds like you got some crud in the needle/seat if it's leaking the needle is not shutting off the flow of fuel. The chugging is because the cylinder associated with that carb is flooding and you're only running on the other 2 cylinders. So, pull middle carb, remove float bowl, remove float and needle hose needle and seat with carb cleaner and reassemble and you should be good to go. Edited September 2, 2011 by DRIFTER_016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike rousseau Posted September 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 Also when I got home I put the muffs on to take a closer look at the leak... Wasn't leaking or chugging anymore... WTH? It also chugged in Tuesday then stopped after a short time... I think something is just sticking... I'll rake a look tomorrow and see how tricky it will be to remove the carb... Thnx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike rousseau Posted September 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 Also If I do clean tge carb myself... Are there gaskets to replace or anything to replace...?? Or just the cleaning? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pikehunter Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 Just cost me 300, actually just under 300 with tax, to get my 2 stroke carb cleaned out. That included putting my fuel pump back together as well and a spring I lost from the pump. His labour rate was 85 an hour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRIFTER_016 Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 (edited) Also If I do clean tge carb myself... Are there gaskets to replace or anything to replace...?? Or just the cleaning? Shouldn't have any gaskets to replace as the float bowl just seals with a rubber o ring. The reason for the incosistant issues is because you have a piece of crud in the seat or on the needle and sometimes it manages to seal and sometimes it doesn't. Edited September 2, 2011 by DRIFTER_016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike rousseau Posted September 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 Shouldn't have any gaskets to replace as the float bowl just seals with a rubber o ring. The reason for the incosistant issues is because you have a piece of crud in the seat or on the needle and sometimes it manages to seal and sometimes it doesn't. thanks drifter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwc67 Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 remember you have to sync the carbs after. rebuilding a carb is easy, syncing them not so much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmer Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 I agree with drifter. I had the exact thing happen to my yamaha a few years back. Finally torn it apart myself and found a small sliver of rubber preventing the needle to seat properly. It was also inconsistant. Threw it back together and no problem. Just make sure you reset all adjustments to the correct settings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aplumma Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 Sync the carbs is not difficult you will need to have the directions to do it though. It is a process of opening the carbs full open and setting the butterflies at 90 degrees. Time to do is less than 15 min the first time. When cleaning the carbs if you remove any screws that are an adjustment first count the turns it takes to seat them lightly and then remove them for cleaning.If you separate something that is an adjustment make a mark that goes from one part to the other then realign the marks on reassembling them. Clean all orifices with a torch cleaning set do not run drill bits thru them a 1/100 of an inch change can kill a jet and replacement will be needed.After you clean it use air and carb cleaner thru all passages with all of the jets removed wrap the carb in a rag just in case you forgot to remove an O ring or Small part it will keep you from shooting it somewhere in the garage. You will hear a ting noise and have no idea what you are looking for. After you have cleaned it with air and carb cleaner.... do it again... now once more.... ok now reassemble it their is a measurement on what to set the floats at if you have not bent or damaged the setting you can usually skip this step but be aware you might have to remove the carbs and get back in them if you guessed wrong. Since you possible have a float issue take the float and hold it in the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket and check for bubbles. If it bubbles it is leaking and replacement is needed. No bubbles then hose down with carb cleaner and dry with air. After assembling the carb turn it upside down and blow thru the gas inlet port with a piece of hose. If you can blow thru it then the float is still sticking reclean/replace needle and if removable seat assy. Reassemble onto motor and make all connections. Pump up the ball and if you can get any fuel to come out of the carb into the throat of the carb you have a stuck flaot on that throat remove and R R. It's not a hard job but pay attention to what you are doing take pictures if you are unsure and be methodical in your cleaning. Most carb rebuilds need no jets but a fresh float needle and gaskets are the best way if they are easily available. Do not use any gasket materials on the carb rebuild it will come back to haunt you in the worst place possible torn gasket is not repairable. Art Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRIFTER_016 Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 remember you have to sync the carbs after. rebuilding a carb is easy, syncing them not so much. Not if you don't totally disassemble them or change any of the throttle settings. Just unclip the links remove fuel line and mounting bolts (reassemble the same way). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike rousseau Posted September 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 tried to take off the ...air box...? to get at the carb... no go... bols are blocked and cant be removed... i ran some seafoam thru the motor and im gunna take it for a good run tonight... how the heck do you get the carbs out??? everything is so tight in there... my knuckles are all bloodied up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRIFTER_016 Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 Not sure without seeing the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freshtrax Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 300 to get the carbs cleaned!!!!!!!!!! Im in the wrong business.... Its a 30 min job on my polaris twin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pikehunter Posted September 3, 2011 Report Share Posted September 3, 2011 300 to get the carbs cleaned!!!!!!!!!! Im in the wrong business.... Its a 30 min job on my polaris twin. Yes, I do agree! Especially my wallet. Not only that but it was cash, cheque or debit. Didn't see the writing on the countertop as I was leaning on it when I took it in. NO CREDIT CARDS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Is King Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 Musky Mike, Thanks for starting this thread. I learned a lot and it helped me get my carb going. DanC, I've heard a lot about Seafoam and I'm now a believer! Got mine at Canadian Tire. Here's my whole story: My Engine is Running Great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cast-Away Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 I cost me almost $400 on my 2000 75HP Merc 4 stroke 3 years ago to have all of the carbs cleaned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike rousseau Posted September 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 Seafoam seemed to do the trick... My motor fouled up 2 trips in a row... Seafoamed it... 3 three trips without a foul up... So far so good... $15 at napa... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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