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trolling cranks from a canoe. Ideas please


Rod Caster

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I'm looking to expand my "covering water" techniques and I've always been shy to use crankbaits...

 

Short of using a bottom bouncer or a three way rig, what are some techniques I could use to get crankbaits down 20-30 fow? Keep in mind I typically fish from a canoe so I need to keep it simple.

 

Do deep diving cranks only work in a specific trolling speed/amount of line out combination? I use 20lbs PP line.

 

If my favorite crank isn't a deep diver, how could I get it to swim at 20 feet?

 

I'm really dumb to these... But would some kind of planer board work in a canoe?

 

Cheers.

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some cranks can reach these depths...

 

manns 20+ or 30+ ?

 

rapala ..."dives to" 20

 

 

reef runner deep diver

 

or add a sinker

 

and lighter line gets you down a bit further...

 

and ive found 100-130 feet of line gets the lures to their max depth

 

I've got a few reef runners I'll actually try them. What brand makes quality reef runners?

 

What type of sinker would you recomment? Egg, split shot, bullet?

 

Thanks

 

Chris, I gather that the planer board is used to hold your line away from the boat... Not necessarily to make the lure go deep?

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Here is what i learned from an expert, and how i trolled for Walleye. 10lb Power Pro main line, attached to 3 feet 20lb Flouro with a swivel.The swivel will catch any floating weeds as it runs down the Main line.Troll speed 1.2-2mph. Let out 100-130 feet of line and the diving lure will reach its intended depth.Give a sharp pull on the line frequently, so that any weeds on the swivel will be cut off by the main line.

The profile of the thin 10lb braid causes little drag and enables the lure to dive to its optimum depth.

10lb is very thin, but very strong. Plenty strong enough to catch some of these.whistling.gif

HPIM1822.jpg

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The amount of line let out is relative to the crank bait, speed, and weight of the snap weight. 100-130 feet of line might be optimum for a particular guide on a particular water body with his particular favourite baits but you have to adjust for your own needs. The fact your in a canoe is not a minus. The thrusts and stalls of a paddle will trigger fish.

Edited by Grimace
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Chad - Ask the local tackle shop for "keel sinkers". They look just like a sailboats keel and have bead chain cast into them. They would be perfect for what you are trying once you've experimented with them for weight vs size of bait etc. Would also be good to interface from braid to fluoro leader. While nothing is really totally weedless their profile does tend to slice through where others may tend to catch on weeds. Added benefit is they are more compact than a downrigger or even dipsy diver (they fit in your tackle trays). Also, consider "suspending" cranks - they sink to and maintain a stated depth at rest and dive down from there when in motion.

 

Michael

 

PS - they work with certain harnesses made by a couple fellas we both know along with virtually any kind of bait. Use your imagination!

Edited by cheaptackle
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As someone who has trolled cranks from a canoe his entire life, the answer isn't overly complicated.

 

As has been mentioned many cranks will dive to the depths you mentioned.

 

Yes you can achieve these depths using paddle power.

 

A small clamp on rod holder is nice to have in a canoe when you're doing a lot of trolling.

 

If you want to troll lighter non diving baits deep, like floating Rapalas or small flutter spoons, use a Wolf River Rig.

 

It's worked for me for years and years.

 

You can vary the weight of the bell sinker anywhere from 1-3oz.

 

I usually run a lead of about 4' to my lure off the 3-way swivel.

 

http://www.fishwolfriver.com/pages/making-a-wolf-river-rig.php

Edited by solopaddler
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Yeah it's pretty simple. If the lure won't go deeper, add weight. Easiest way is the 3 way swivel....or a clip on sinker. "Reef Runner" IS the brand, btw...they have different models...I *think* the most popular is the 800, which hits about 30' with 100-130' of line out.

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I'll second the idea of using a clamp-on rod holder. The "Salty" is my preferred choice. I like the insurance of the double clamp and these things are bullet-proof.....http://www.down-east.com/clamp-on.htm.

 

As someone else already mentioned the slight changes in speed when paddling WILL trigger hits to the point where we have implemented a "pause" when employing this technique. Basically one of the paddlers just says "pause" when they get a vibe that a fish is following :thumbsup_anim: or they need a drink :whistling: and we'll coast for 15-20ft. before resuming paddling, that is if we need to, you'd be surprised how many fish are caught on the "pause".....

 

Good luck!!

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Hit e-bay for a cheap electric trolling motor. I just picked up a 30 thrust and it works dandy with two in the canoe. Hook it up to a 24 volt car battery and away you go.

 

I racked my brain before i got it as to how i would mount it. And i scrapped the whole in line mount and simply clamped it onto the sidewall of the canoe with a board on the outside and inside of the gunwhale to sandwich the canoe wall and it works flawlessly.

 

Ive only been fishing it a couple weeks with floats and drop shot so i cant comment on the trolling issue. BUt youve got plenty of good info.

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A lot of good info here... I have had some success from my kayak with a simple crankbait with a split shot pinched on about 2 to 3 feet away from the crank. Didn't effect the action at all and I could hit my 15 ft. mark no problem. Most of the suggestions will probably work better than this system, but it's good for when you're in a pinch.

Edited by NateFollmer
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