fisher12 Posted November 6, 2010 Report Posted November 6, 2010 Which line would be best for a beginner to use? Any leaders?
Gregoire Posted November 6, 2010 Report Posted November 6, 2010 There is a lot of information online. Pick a type of fishing and do a google search. I'm sure you'll come up with some good information.
fisher12 Posted November 6, 2010 Author Report Posted November 6, 2010 What length/power/action rod are you using? I am going to get a rod soon too, so the type of line will help me choose that also.
Garry2Rs Posted November 6, 2010 Report Posted November 6, 2010 (edited) Steelhead/Salmon fishermen often use very specialized equipment. However the basic techniques for river fishing are the same for Bass, Pike, Musky, Trout, Steelhead or Salmon. As a beginner, I will assume you will have to use your basic spinning outfit...It will work fine to cast small lures and to drift baits in a river. If you are spooled up with eight to ten pound test mono or fluoro you are all set. If you are using braid, I would suggest a short leader of clear line at least for drifting baits when the water is clear. To get started you can simply cast a small crankbait like a Rapala, a spinner such as a Mepp's or a spoon like the Little Cleo, down-stream, across the current and clank it back as it swings below you. With baits such as worms, minnows, flies or roe you cast up-stream in running water. You will need to get the bait close to the bottom. This can be done by weighting the line, or with a three way swivel and a dropper with lead shot attached. Alternate methods include surgical tubing with pencil weights or Slinkies etc. The point is you need to adjust the weight so that the sinkers tick bottom, but don't snag... These baits can be fished with or without a bobber. You cast them up-stream and pick up slack line as they drift back toward you. Longer rods, lighter lines and special reels can make this type of fishing easier, but to get started, you can use your basic spinning gear. Good luck Garry2R's Edited November 6, 2010 by garry2rs
Guest ThisPlaceSucks Posted November 6, 2010 Report Posted November 6, 2010 float fishing, casting hardware, bottom bouncing? the type of fishing will determine the test, material, and characteristics of your mainline.
OhioFisherman Posted November 6, 2010 Report Posted November 6, 2010 Almost all of mine came from open waters (Lake Erie) while fishing for smallies. I never used more than 8 or 10# test on a spinning reel on the lake, and very rarely used more than 10# on a casting reel on the lake. Usually original stren or prime on the spinning reel and original stren on the bait casters. It is important to check your line often for damage, they do run faster and jump more often than a smallie ( steel head never caught a salmon ).
fisher12 Posted November 6, 2010 Author Report Posted November 6, 2010 (edited) float fishing, casting hardware, bottom bouncing? the type of fishing will determine the test, material, and characteristics of your mainline. Float fishing. and yes I will am using a Spinning outfit. Edited November 6, 2010 by fisher12
Garry2Rs Posted November 7, 2010 Report Posted November 7, 2010 Float fishing. and yes I will am using a Spinning outfit. Okay; You don't want fluorocarbon for your main line because fluoro sinks and will drag your float down. I believe Mono is for choice on float rods, but I'm sure some of our Center Pin experts will give you lots of useful hints. Garry2R's
Guest ThisPlaceSucks Posted November 7, 2010 Report Posted November 7, 2010 you want a mainline that is light and thin so it doesn't catch wind or weigh down onto the surface. if your frequently fish in crowds or have poor eyes you can use a fluorescent line but that's not really my thing. i use raven mono in 10lb test.
fisher12 Posted November 7, 2010 Author Report Posted November 7, 2010 Okay; You don't want fluorocarbon for your main line because fluoro sinks and will drag your float down. I believe Mono is for choice on float rods, but I'm sure some of our Center Pin experts will give you lots of useful hints. Garry2R's oh, I'm using a spinning rod ,not float.
fisher12 Posted November 7, 2010 Author Report Posted November 7, 2010 you want a mainline that is light and thin so it doesn't catch wind or weigh down onto the surface. if your frequently fish in crowds or have poor eyes you can use a fluorescent line but that's not really my thing. i use raven mono in 10lb test. I'm also figuring out if I will use braid or mono as my main line, If 12 pounds or lower is the way to go then I will use mono, but if I need to use higher than 12 lbs. I will use braid so I would have normal capacity.
skunked Posted November 7, 2010 Report Posted November 7, 2010 oh, I'm using a spinning rod ,not float. Yeah but your float fishing, so you want a buoyant main line, like mono, and under your float, after all your split shot, a flouro tippet to your bait. I say just forget about braid for trout salmon fishing, I never ever use braid unless im trolling for muskie on the north shore. and still... hardly.
Garry2Rs Posted November 7, 2010 Report Posted November 7, 2010 If you are using a float, you are float fishing, whether or not you have the extra long rod and precision reel. With any cross-current technique, "drag" is your biggest enemy. The water doesn't all move at the same speed from bank-to-bank. These various, conflicting water speeds will push and tug on your line causing your bait to drift up or at an angle and at a speed that doesn't match the water it is suspended in. Fish will ignore baits that are "dragging" simply because they appear unnatural. To counteract drag, Fly Fishermen "mend" their line by flipping a loop of line up-stream to create some slack above their bait. Float fishermen can't "mend" their line, but they can use their long rods to hold as much line above the current as possible. In both cases these long, supple rods also protect very light line from strong fish. The horns of this dilemma are plain! Too fine a line will not hold the fish you catch and too strong a line won't catch any...HAHAHA. Good Luck! Garry2R's
perchslayer666 Posted November 7, 2010 Report Posted November 7, 2010 Main Line - Raven Hi Vis 10lb test Shot line - Maxima Ultragreen 8lb test Leader - Berkley Florocarbon pro grade 6lb test. As long as you tie good knots, the only time you'll break off is if you get into a good snag. Good luck
ChrisK Posted November 7, 2010 Report Posted November 7, 2010 Suffix 8 pound clear for your main line is the way to go. Not sure how it will lay down on a spinning reel but it does great on a float reel. Virtually no memory and very abrasion resistant. All the qualities that I personally look for but that may change from person to person. This weekend I float fished beside guys with braided line and mono and the mono out fished everything hands down. Reason being ?? When the braided line laid in the water it looked like rope compared to the mono and I'm sure the fish probably thought the same..Stealth is the key to success with those tight lipped steelhead...
dave524 Posted November 8, 2010 Report Posted November 8, 2010 I'm thrifty (cheap) I use Trilene XT all the way on my float rig, 10 lb. for mainline and 4 or 6 lb. for the leader.
ctranter Posted November 8, 2010 Report Posted November 8, 2010 (edited) I like gamma 8 or 10lb main line, smoke green, with froghair leader flouro Edited November 8, 2010 by ctranter
danjang Posted November 8, 2010 Report Posted November 8, 2010 Siglon F 10 pound Main and drennan/maxima flouro leads in 8,6,4. 4 for clear conditions 6 for all round 8 for salmon/dirty water
GoneFishin Posted November 8, 2010 Report Posted November 8, 2010 There's a few things you need to take into consideration, but I would say mono is the way to go float fishing. Braid retains to much water and will make it hard to mend your line and pick up your slack. Floro is heavy and in previouse experience had to much memory.. I wouldn't go higher then 6-8lb if your running your main straight to the hook.bIf your planning on running leaders all the time then you can get away with heavier main line. Using leaders may seem like a lot of work but it's alot easier to tie on a leader then it is to redo your whole set up when you get snagged... Plus you'll save more then enough money from floats you don't lose to pay for your line and leader material lol. What you really need to figure out is what rod you will be using before you decide what line to get. Longer/light action rods will absorb a lot of shock and will allow you to use lighter leaders which is why you see so many trout fishermen using them. When the water gets clear some people use under 4lb leaders. I'm currently using 10 lb trilene transition for my main which is actualy turning out to be pretty decent, And 6lb frog hair for my leaders. I don't bother to ever go under 4lb but even that seems over kill sometimes..
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