DRIFTER_016 Posted December 8, 2009 Report Posted December 8, 2009 But...they have the same diameter and likely the same breaking strength LOL!I'm a big fan of 12lb Raven in the green colour myself. Not true Mike. I was losing way too many floats out in AK with 8# Ande with 6# leader material, but since I switched to 12# Raven and 8# leader I have not lost a single float.
DRIFTER_016 Posted December 8, 2009 Report Posted December 8, 2009 All my reels are half filled with 12 lb dacron from Cabelas. The diameter of the dacron is about the same as the 4kg Ande. I have yet to be spooled to the dacron, but you never know. muddler In all my years of fishing a pin I have only been taken to the backing once. That was in September 2004 or 2005 in Alaska. I had walked into a spot to fish the area around an island, first drift float goes down, set hook and 30 plus inches of resident chrome explodes out of the run and instantly heads down river towards the ocean 90 miles away!!!! It made it's down stream run with line peeling off the reel followed by about 50 feet of backing. About 100 yards or so down river it held in a large eddy and I slowly worked the fish back up river as I was now on tip toes in chest deep water trying to coax the magnum chromer back to me. I managed to get her to within about 40 or 50 yards when after an epic 45 minute battle she threw the hook. It was the best and most memorable fight and the image of that fishes explosive first leap is burned into my mind for eternity.
strakey Posted December 8, 2009 Report Posted December 8, 2009 Siglon f is a great line specially designed for centerpin fishing. Just spool it with a heavier mono first for backing and use an arbour knot to join them. you can find some at www.centerpinangling.com good fishing
Joeytier Posted December 8, 2009 Report Posted December 8, 2009 I prefer 8 lb test. I would suggest Maxima ultragreen, but really the most important thing is to make sure whatever you get is LIMP. I've tried XT as well as P-Line's XT-equivalent and it just does not work on a pin.
Spiel Posted December 8, 2009 Report Posted December 8, 2009 I prefer 8 lb test. I would suggest Maxima ultragreen, but really the most important thing is to make sure whatever you get is LIMP. Really? In over 30 years of using a center pin a LIMP line is exactly what I avoid, go figure.
solopaddler Posted December 8, 2009 Report Posted December 8, 2009 Siglon f is a great line specially designed for centerpin fishing. Just spool it with a heavier mono first for backing and use an arbour knot to join them. you can find some at www.centerpinangling.com good fishing Yep. It's specially designed by a bunch of rubes who know nothing about float fishing. Not unlike the new GLX float rods.
BillM Posted December 8, 2009 Report Posted December 8, 2009 (edited) What line should I graduate to when I'm not a newbie, oh lord master ruler of the pin Bill?? cheers HD lol! I'm a master of something, but it's not the pin Right now I use 8lb Drennan Super Mono... I've just recently started to use a swivel above the float and it's drastically cut down on my line twist. I can safely say that after the first time I put one on, my line twist all but disappeared.. After the first couple of fish were landed, my worries about another point of failure disappeared... Just gotta make sure you figure out the depths you'll be fishing that day and leave enough length between your first swivel and second swivel accordingly... However twist will surface when you are fishing the larger rivers (Saugeen, Catt, Genny) where you actually have to make long distance casts. I know I should learn the Wallis casts, and I am but my buddy Dave does a weird sidecast/wallis combo and it works out well for him.. I've been trying that with a bit of success... I'm not a huge fan of the floating line, they usually turn to wire in the cold weather and are a huge pain in the ass (again if you are making big casts, the ditches out east don't count, lol) Edited December 8, 2009 by BillM
highdrifter Posted December 8, 2009 Report Posted December 8, 2009 Yep. It's specially designed by a bunch of rubes who know nothing about float fishing.Not unlike the new GLX float rods. Who you calling rube, hippy??
MJL Posted December 8, 2009 Report Posted December 8, 2009 Really? In over 30 years of using a center pin a LIMP line is exactly what I avoid, go figure. I think the guys who wallis/pull cast like using the stiffer lines better VS the guys who side cast. For the side casters, the limper lines allow for better distance on the cast (pretty much what you'd expect from a spinning reel). I prefer stiffer lines myself as I find they are usually more abrasion resistant and they handle nicely when wallis/pull casting or when doing a spinning side cast (usually do this when my fingers go numb from the cold ). Different strokes for different folks.
Spiel Posted December 8, 2009 Report Posted December 8, 2009 I think the guys who wallis/pull cast like using the stiffer lines better VS the guys who side cast. For the side casters, the limper lines allow for better distance on the cast (pretty much what you'd expect from a spinning reel). I prefer stiffer lines myself as I find they are usually more abrasion resistant and they handle nicely when wallis/pull casting or when doing a spinning side cast (usually do this when my fingers go numb from the cold ). Different strokes for different folks. That could very well be the case Mike. I never side cast and hence that may be the reason I prefer stiffer lines and why I never use a swivel, above or below the float. Less terminal tackle and fewer knots. But hey, I'm old school and not likely to change my habits. But then again I am playing around with a new baitcast set-up.
troutologist Posted December 8, 2009 Report Posted December 8, 2009 (edited) Couldnt pay me to use siglon. nothing but issues for me. Granted I tried it early in my centerpin experience first, had break off and twist issues galore. Chaulked it up to not knowing how to cast well etc. Switched to Raven 10lb grey. Which has been awesome. Tried Siglon again this spring and played with multiple swivels and a wallis cast, still crap. 2 spools of 12lb siglon I can break easliy using my hands. Back to Raven after 1 trip. Im confident in it which makes a big difference. Another question, besides watching your line in crowded areas, what is the fascination with Hi Vis lines? That never made sense to me, use flouro leaders and then a hi vis mainline.... Edited December 8, 2009 by troutologist
GBW Posted December 9, 2009 Author Report Posted December 9, 2009 so...why wouldn't I buy a rather large spool of *insert name here* of #8LB and fill the spool with it? Then tie on a 10' section of #6LB or less of floro? Rather then using a (backing as I'm not sure why to use backing on a pin, just to cut cost on line?) or just fill the spool with #8LB? Again, I have no clue how much this spool/reel should hold... Thanks to all! Geoff
solopaddler Posted December 9, 2009 Report Posted December 9, 2009 (edited) Couldnt pay me to use siglon. nothing but issues for me. Granted I tried it early in my centerpin experience first, had break off and twist issues galore. Chaulked it up to not knowing how to cast well etc. Switched to Raven 10lb grey. Which has been awesome. Tried Siglon again this spring and played with multiple swivels and a wallis cast, still crap. 2 spools of 12lb siglon I can break easliy using my hands. Back to Raven after 1 trip. Im confident in it which makes a big difference. Another question, besides watching your line in crowded areas, what is the fascination with Hi Vis lines? That never made sense to me, use flouro leaders and then a hi vis mainline.... Watching your line in crowded areas is the only advantage imo. But then I'm constantly watching my float...intently so that advantage is moot for me. I personally wouldn't run it under my float and many guys won't either. For those that do use hi vis but not beneath their float, that rigging requires an additional shotting leader which equates into 2 more knots and possible weak points. I've always been a fan of the K.I.S.S. theory myself so I shun the hi vis lines. Edited December 9, 2009 by solopaddler
azebra Posted December 9, 2009 Report Posted December 9, 2009 I use Hook Line Sinker store brand Hi vis, I like it. I think its 10lb then I use 8.8lb frog hair or 6.6 lb frog hair.
MJL Posted December 9, 2009 Report Posted December 9, 2009 so...why wouldn't I buy a rather large spool of *insert name here* of #8LB and fill the spool with it? Then tie on a 10' section of #6LB or less of floro? Rather then using a (backing as I'm not sure why to use backing on a pin, just to cut cost on line?) or just fill the spool with #8LB? Again, I have no clue how much this spool/reel should hold... Thanks to all! Geoff The ideas behind backing: 1. Instead of filling an entire spool with mono, try to fill it up with something lighter (Dacron, level fly line, cork sheeting, etc)…This will improve start-up as it will take less effort to get the spool to start spinning. 2. If you’re side casting, you’d want to fill your spool up to approximately 1/8th of an inch to the edge (backplate side of course.LOL) - Some guys prefer to fill it up even more than 1/8 of an inch…Think about spinning reels – An improperly spooled reel will cut down on your casting distance. Backing helps fill the spool up so you don’t really need to fill it up with something expensive and stuff you’ll probably never use beyond just as backing. 3. Theoretically speaking, increasing the diameter of your spool will increase the amount of line you pick up on the retrieve. Backing helps to increase the internal diameter of the spool where the line will be (similar to the large arbor effect in fly reels) - Those who bought 5" reels for the retrieve rate might as well make the most out of them by filling them up. 4. Backing was used to cushion the effect of stretching/contracting mono when it got wet and cold. Stanton users often used Dacron as a backing for this. Apparently when mono gets wet and cold, it can shrink and bust or warp the spool of the reel (I’ve never personally seen this myself but I did use Dacron anyway with the black Stanton I owned for a short while). With Stantons, you pretty much spool your line onto small pins inside the spool drum (these pins are the things that can warp or break). I’ve heard that shrinking mono can put up a force equivalent to 400-2300lbs per square inch when it gets wet…I’ve always been pessimistic about those numbers but that’s what I’ve been told by anglers who were better mathematicians and physicists than I was .
GBW Posted December 9, 2009 Author Report Posted December 9, 2009 Thanks MJL! I guess I better get me some Dacron as well then...
fishnpro Posted December 9, 2009 Report Posted December 9, 2009 If you wanna save your self some money by not loosing floats in trees and crap I would suggest you either go with 10lb ande or 10lb suffix tritanium. Both line are very smooth and easy to cast, the only problem I find with the ande is you have to change it every could months if you side cast.
DRIFTER_016 Posted December 9, 2009 Report Posted December 9, 2009 lol! I'm a master of something, but it's not the pin Right now I use 8lb Drennan Super Mono... I've just recently started to use a swivel above the float and it's drastically cut down on my line twist. I can safely say that after the first time I put one on, my line twist all but disappeared.. After the first couple of fish were landed, my worries about another point of failure disappeared... Just gotta make sure you figure out the depths you'll be fishing that day and leave enough length between your first swivel and second swivel accordingly... However twist will surface when you are fishing the larger rivers (Saugeen, Catt, Genny) where you actually have to make long distance casts. I know I should learn the Wallis casts, and I am but my buddy Dave does a weird sidecast/wallis combo and it works out well for him.. I've been trying that with a bit of success... I'm not a huge fan of the floating line, they usually turn to wire in the cold weather and are a huge pain in the ass (again if you are making big casts, the ditches out east don't count, lol) Bill if you want to completely get rid of line twist do the following: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LEARN TO CAST!!!!!!! Seriously learn a spinning cast and all line twist will magically disappear. The only time I have done the side cast in the last 25 years has been showing newbies how to cast, since it's the easiest to learn. Within a year they have all been weaned off the side cast and are now using some form of spinning cast. Try it, You'll like it!!!!
DRIFTER_016 Posted December 9, 2009 Report Posted December 9, 2009 I prefer 8 lb test. I would suggest Maxima ultragreen, but really the most important thing is to make sure whatever you get is LIMP. I've tried XT as well as P-Line's XT-equivalent and it just does not work on a pin. Really? In over 30 years of using a center pin a LIMP line is exactly what I avoid, go figure. Actually limp is bad in my books but then I don't side cast. I like a line that is between limp and stiff. In 8# Ande is that line, stiff enough to handle properly and limp enough not to coil off the reel. I tried heavier Ande when I first moved west and it was too stiff and handled like wire. That is when I tried Raven in 12# test and it handles very well. As for 8# Maxima Ultragreen being limp, it is in the middle of the limpness scale like the 8# Ande. Limp line is Trilene XL, the stuff is terrible on a float reel.
Spiel Posted December 9, 2009 Report Posted December 9, 2009 As for 8# Maxima Ultragreen being limp, it is in the middle of the limpness scale like the 8# Ande.Limp line is Trilene XL, the stuff is terrible on a float reel. Yep, Trilene XL is definitely a line to avoid on a float reel. I'm currently spooled up with Maxima Ultra Green (6lb), it's okay but I think I'll be looking for something a little stiffer next season.
DRIFTER_016 Posted December 9, 2009 Report Posted December 9, 2009 (edited) Yep, Trilene XL is definitely a line to avoid on a float reel. I'm currently spooled up with Maxima Ultra Green (6lb), it's okay but I think I'll be looking for something a little stiffer next season. Just go up to 8# and the line will be a little stiffer and be easier to handle. Actually my goto leader material is 8# Ultragreen. Edited December 9, 2009 by DRIFTER_016
solopaddler Posted December 9, 2009 Report Posted December 9, 2009 Just go up to 8# and the line will be a little stiffer and be easier to handle. Actually my goto leader material is 8# Ultragreen. Dude I'll guarantee you 8lb U.G. is stronger than the 12lb raven mainline. When I fished "Forest Gumps Girlfriend" several times recently I was running 8lb U.G. for tippet. On several occasions when snagged on the many miles of dead line my main line broke before the tippet did.... I love U.G., but man it's breaking strength is underrated.
GBW Posted December 9, 2009 Author Report Posted December 9, 2009 What about MAXIMA CHAMELEON one shot spools?
GBW Posted December 10, 2009 Author Report Posted December 10, 2009 I just picked up a spool of the Ultragreen #10 so thanks all. now to find a good backing and leader... HAHA
BillM Posted December 10, 2009 Report Posted December 10, 2009 LEARN TO CAST!!!!!!! Seriously learn a spinning cast and all line twist will magically disappear. The only time I have done the side cast in the last 25 years has been showing newbies how to cast, since it's the easiest to learn. Within a year they have all been weaned off the side cast and are now using some form of spinning cast. Try it, You'll like it!!!! Hopefully you'll be able to show me in person in a week or two?
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