Need a bit of help

[misfish]

Every year I winterize the boss,s boat motors, One use to be a 75 3 cyl johnson. Easy peazy. The other is a 9,9 merc. Thats a no brainer for me.

Now he has a 50 Honda 4 stroke.

Anything special here to do?

I was going to drain the bottom end,flush and fill.

Pull the plugs spray fog,turn over the motor a few times,clean plugs and put back together.

Change fuel filter.

 

Now about the oil,this is where I need yer advise.

 

Thanks

[Dondorfish]

I change the motor oil while winterizing - other then that - seems you got all bases covered.

 

 

Don

[lew]

I always use the oil & filters recommended by the manufacturer too Brian, Honda for you & Merc oil for me. It probably costs more but it gives me piece of mind using the right stuff.

 

Also a good idea to replace the small washers when you remove the screws from the lower end to change that oil too. Their only a few ¢ but something that many neglect to change.

Edited October 31, 2007 by lew

[Deano]

I'll change the oil next spring, before I start using it again. Sitting all winter with the cold and warm, cold and warm, some condensation can form, changing the oil in the spring helps get any out that may have formed. So unless the oil is looking bad in the fall, I'll leave it till spring. I turn the motor over on warmer days during winter just to keep everything lubricated.

[Roy]

If the boat is being stored outside, there might be a few things to disconnect. For example, if he has a water pressure guage, that should be diconnected.

[Cast-Away]

Misfish;

Here is a concise list that I've used every year since I got my boat in 2001. I spend $150 on parts for and $8500 motor, so I figure that it is a worth while investment. Copy and paste this into Word and change the parts that suit your motor.

 

Outboard Preparation

 

 

Materials

 

1. 5 litres 10W30 Mercury 4 Stroke Engine Oil

2. 1 Oil Filter

3. Fuel Filter (part #877565T1)

4. 1 litre Mercury High Performance Gear Lubricant (665 ml used)

5. 4 Sparkplugs NGK LFR5A-11 (Gap .044 should be factory set)

6. 500 ml Fuel Stabilizer

7. 2 seals for lower unit screws

 

Tools

 

1. Oil pan

2. Rags

3. Funnel

4. Wrenches and extension

5. Spark plug gapper

6. Grease gun

7. Wire ties for fuel filter

 

Procedure (4 hours from start to finish stored)

 

1. Fill the gas tank and add stabilizer.

2. Run the engine for 15 minutes.

3. Tilt the motor up and remove the engine oil pan plug. Be careful of oil gushing out. It takes ½ hour to drain.

4. Lower the motor and remove the oil filter and replace. Make sure that a rag is underneath before beginning this procedure.

5. Grease all five lubrication points.

6. Change the fuel filter.

7. Replace the drain plug and re-fill.

8. Remove the crank case oil plug and drain. Takes 45 minutes. Replace the Air vent screw and fill with new oil. When oil comes out of the top screw, replace it and remove the Air vent screw. Keep filling until the oil comes out this screw. Make sure to use new seals when putting the screws back in.

9. Clean the trailer and the boat hull. Vacuum the interior. Remove the drain plug.

10. Dry out all of the covers. Open the hatches and empty them. Leave open.

11. Remove the old spark plugs, replace and apply storage sealer into the holes. Hand-crank the flywheel to work in the sealer. Replace with new plugs.

12. Put the trailer on jack stands and lower the motor.

13. Remove the batteries and charge them.

Edited October 31, 2007 by Cast-Away

[Bassloadingzone]

DO NOT FOG A FOUR STROKE, best check a owners manual on this, four strokes should not be fogged

[ccmtcanada]

Also a good idea to replace the small washers when you remove the screws from the lower end to change that oil too. Their only a few ¢ but something that many neglect to change.

 

When Fishindevil came out to help me get the motor ready for use, we noticed that the small washers on the lower unit screws were pretty much non-existant. A quick ride to the local marine shop and for just a few bucks we have 4....two new ones for the motor and 2 spares ones. Shawn ended up with a few spares himself.

[musky66]

I would still fog a carberated four-stroke but have been told NOT to fog a fuel injected one. Instead I pull the sparkplugs and spray some storage oil in there then spin the motor with the tether off.

[Cast-Away]

I was told by an authorized Merc dealer that you can spray for into the cylinders of a 4 Stroke via the sparkplug holes to inhibit corrosion during the off season.

Never spray fog into the carberators of any 4 Stroke motor.

[Fisherman]

I'll change the oil next spring, before I start using it again. Sitting all winter with the cold and warm, cold and warm, some condensation can form, changing the oil in the spring helps get any out that may have formed. So unless the oil is looking bad in the fall, I'll leave it till spring. I turn the motor over on warmer days during winter just to keep everything lubricated.

Wrong! Used oil contains a nasty mixmash of acids formed while the engine is running, it may not be written by all manufacturers, however, the ones I have seen indicate to change the oil and filter before storage. Leaving used opil in the cranchcase for the winter period4-6 months will start to pit bearing(sleeve and ball type) surfaces. Not good. Change the oil when the motor is warm to drain fast and get everything out. As for turning the motor over on warm days, hope you have some form of lubricant for the water pump impellor, even a couple of turns while dry can crack/shred/destroy the rubber wings, not intended to be done. Drain the carbs on the Honda is real easy, there is a small screw on the side at the bottom of each float bowl, flat tip screwdriver, open a bit, the gas will drain and prevent varnish from forming in the carbs.

[Deano]

"Wrong! Used oil contains a nasty mixmash of acids formed while the engine is running"

 

The oil never has time to go bad, think about it, the motor only running maybe 100hrs max, and that's if I'm using it lots, a season. the oil never even gets discolored in a season, so to worry about the oil to me is nonsense. Your buddies telling you to change the oil in fall and then again in spring are just making you waste money and oil. As for turning the motor over when dry, your motor always turns the first so many turns dry anyways, it has to suck up the water which takes some turns. I agree with draining the carbs though.

[Fisherman]

"Wrong! Used oil contains a nasty mixmash of acids formed while the engine is running"

 

The oil never has time to go bad, think about it, the motor only running maybe 100hrs max, and that's if I'm using it lots, a season. the oil never even gets discolored in a season, so to worry about the oil to me is nonsense. Your buddies telling you to change the oil in fall and then again in spring are just making you waste money and oil. As for turning the motor over when dry, your motor always turns the first so many turns dry anyways, it has to suck up the water which takes some turns. I agree with draining the carbs though.

Discolouration of the oil is no indicator of its usefullness, check the oil that comes out of a propane powered vehicle, very clean, however, do a chemical analysis of it and you would be surprised, it's just that gas/diesel powered add a bit more soot to the oil and it's more obvious. I didn't say to change it again in the spring. News to me that when I lower the motor into the water, the pump is dry. The cavity to the impellor is open to at least one of the spaces between the rubber impellor wings, therefore any turning of the impellor immediately sends water around the pump....anyway, your motor, your cash.

[misfish]

Ok ok thanks all. No need to get in a ruogh houze over a 4 stroke winterizing.LOL

 

Thanks fellas.

[lookinforwalleye]

My manual (Yamaha 4 stroke) says to spray fogging oil into the carbs!

I always change oil in the spring,no problem yet and I have never drained the carbs just use stabil and run it through the engine as per the owners manual.

Edited November 1, 2007 by lookinforwalleye

[lew]

the gas will drain and prevent varnish from forming in the carbs.

 

Would varnish still form if gas stabilizer was run thru the motor before storage ?? I was always under the impression that was basically the sole purpose of using a stabilizer.

[Cast-Away]

Fuel stabilizer eliminates the need to drain gas from the system. It is best to fill up your fuel tank, add the stabilizer, then run it through the entire system for at least 15 minutes.

[lew]

I read where it's best to add the stabilizer to a seperate gallon of gas 1st, mix that well, then pour it into the tank with the rest of the gas. Supposedly it mixes better that way.

[Greencoachdog]

The only thing I do to winterize my 4 stroke is to make sure all the water is drained after every trip. No yardwork means more time for fishin'!!!