kennyman Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 I'm really wanting to upgrade from my twelve foot tinny and 9.9 Evinrude (I'll post it here for sale soon) . I had the wife and my two kids in it on vacation and it's just too small to fish out of. So, I've decided to look for an older (80's) bowrider. That way, we can fish out of it and use it for a little fun for the kids (ages 9 & 12) as well. My question is that when I'm looking I see very similar boats (in the $2500-$3500 range) that look like they'll suit my purpose fine, but with completely different drivelines. Some have a normal outboard (anywhere from 70-150 HP- usually Mercs) and other have an inboard/outboard setup (usually 110 or 120HP with an OMC drive typically). What should I buy??? I'm looking for opinions??? What would you do??? Why?? Thanks guys.
Pigeontroller Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 First and only thing that comes to my mind is a I/O doesn't have the shallow water capability that an outboard has.
vance Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 I/Os are heavy boats ,if you are going to tow it any distance you will need a REAL tow vehicle.They are NOT a small water boat and are usually harder to put on a trailer than a outboard.Then you run into the extra regulations for I/Os for safety reasons.From what I have heard winterizing can be a real pain! vance
kennyman Posted September 25, 2007 Author Report Posted September 25, 2007 Sounds like outboards are more popular here. What about reliability? Mileage?I mean in a perfect world I'd be getting a newer four stroke, but reality suggests if I go outboard it'll be a two-stroke again.
Sinker Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 Alot more parts to break/fix on an I/O. I'd take the outboard. Easy maintenance, easy repairs........and you can run them later into the season. Sinker
Mike the Pike Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 (edited) I/Os are heavy boats ,if you are going to tow it any distance you will need a REAL tow vehicle.They are NOT a small water boat and are usually harder to put on a trailer than a outboard.Then you run into the extra regulations for I/Os for safety reasons.From what I have heard winterizing can be a real pain! vance Kenny like Vance says they are a pain to haul around usually have less fishable floor space and if you don't have 4 wheel drive on the ramp this can be challenging trying to haul the extra weight out of the water.My first boat was a16 ft fiberglass Chaparel .Nice boat if I had it docked at a cottage but not the lake to lake boat I wanted.Now I have an 18ft Lund tiller and I don't miss the glass boat.Launching is a breeze.Kenny just go and finance one you can pay with terms like 10yrs or 15yrs.Go get what you need and what you really want a fishing boat (fish and ski) .at $3500 you are buying someone else's problems. Don't sell the 12ft tinny you will need that for camping when you can't bring the big boat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Good Luck MTP Edited September 25, 2007 by Mike the Pike
2 tone z71 Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 DO NOT buy an OMC I/O they where junk when new and there Junk NOW the newer Cobras are alright but the older verticle drives are garbage and parts are no longer available,Im a big fan of outboard boats, when an Inboard goes down the repair costs are very high ,shift and throttle cables/labour are almost a 1000 alone on most boats ,if ya have to have one get atleast a first Gen Alpha
ccmtcanada Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 Don't sell the 12ft tinny you will need that for camping when you can't bring the big boat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Good Luck MTP Now dont tell him that!!! LOL. I'm in the market for a 12 to 14 foot tinny with motor and trailer.... Congrats on the move up Kennyman!! Good luck!
tipupesox Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 I have run an I/O for the last 15 years whithout problem. Some draw backs have already been stated, access to shallow water fishing (which can be eliminated by adding a bow mount trolling motor to the bow rider), length of season (when the temps get towards the freezing mark time to put the vessel away), and engine work space. To drain the water there are (2) plugs to remove, one from engine block and other from manifold. Changing the oil can be difficult since the oil pan is on the bottom of the engine where there is limited space. You have (2) options, oil pump that removes oil through dip stick opening or by rigging up a funnel device and tube which exits out the drain plug hole. I have always owned a Mercruiser so I cannot comment on the OMC product. The weight of the boat can be slightly higher but that would depend on the size of the outboard engine. I have always found that I/O's are better on gas consumption when trolling, unless you are running a small kicker outboard. If you go with an I/O, I would have the lower unit serviced before taking it out next season. Hope this helps......... Tom
jedimaster Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 I am selling my 88 Glastron 17.5 foot. The only bad thing about it is when your fishing shallow water. I have a trolling motor on the front and can get pretty shallow, but the hull drafts about a a foot and a half, I want to get into the foot of water type stuff so I am getting a bass boat. Gas mileage is awesome on Mercruiser 4 cylinder IO's.90 bucks will last 2 or 3 weekends of fishing and tubing. Try that with a 140hp outboard. You need a big vehicle. I used to tow mine with my V6 Minivan but if it wasn't a concrete pad I couldn't get it out of the water. Now I have a DOdge Durango and have no issues getting it in or out of the water. If you fishing lakes that are regularly in the 2-5 fow then you may want to go for an alluminum OB or Bass boat OB. Mine will troll hapily at 2-3mph and goes 35mph fully loaded with 4 adults and a full tank of gas with a 17 pitch prop. If you throw a rod in an Outboard it will cost you as much toi replace an OB as it will to replace an IO. Winterization needs to be done earlier as you have to worry about freezing the block. Thats about it. Like I said if you fishing really really shallow get an OB if you fishing in November and December get an OB. but IMHO an IO in the price range your looking at will be a far better engine reliability wise than an OB. I would much rather have a later 80's mercruiser than a late 80's Merc OB. Good luck.
Zib Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 Go with an outboard. You will have more freeboard, less weight, easier access for working on the motor, & easier to winterize.
POLLIWOGG Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 You can get some good value out of an old I/O like a 22' sea ray, not what your looking for but a good eg. of bang for the buck or you can end up with a piece of junk. I Like the volvo because its easy to work on, and if the motor blows up I can put a junk yard engine in it in a day for less than $300. You can't replace a 200hp outboard for that. I have the outdrive apart right now because I hit a pile of rocks early in the year and chipped a gear. I've collected parts over the years so this will run me for a gasket set. I wouldn't take an old OMC if you gave it to me.
jedimaster Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 (edited) Polliwogg, just make sure you use the proper tin gaskets, alternator, carb and starter, don't want anything to go boom. I am fully in agreement that older IO are cheaper to replace and maintain than older OB's, new I would go with OB, more than 10 years old IO every time for me. I can't even count the number of times I see guys at the dock cranking and cracnking to get there OB's started. I just put it in the water put the trolling motor down drift away from the dock, turn the key and blast it. Edited September 25, 2007 by jedimaster
kennyman Posted September 25, 2007 Author Report Posted September 25, 2007 (edited) Great guys. This is exactly the type of information I need. I wasn't really thinking about how much water the I/O would draw. I was taking into account the depth of the hull etc. and I was going to stay away from the really deep boats, not just for the clearance,but for the ease of fishing too. I was thinking that with a fairly shallow hulled I/O you could just trim up and sneak around the shallower areas. This is exactly why I posted this question. I would have thought myself that an I/O although a real pain in the arse to work on, would be more reliable. On the flip side I had no idea an OMC was "death". One of the boats I noticed for sale (and kind of have a crush on LOL) is a 1980 Caravelle bowrider that has a 120 HP, 4 cyl OMC Stringer Stern Drive. He claims the lower unit has less than 50 hours on it since rebuild. I guess it's still unreliable?? Next thing. If you had to pick an outboard of this era, what would you buy?What HP? Are some known for being bulletproof (like my little 9.9 Evinrude)? Okay in response to some of the posts. Mike The Pike. I have a Buick Roadmaster station wagon (350 engine) that I tow with so powerwise it's probably okay, but I probably wouldn't want to submerse the back of it (like I've seen pickups do when they go a little too far).Are they (I/O) that much heavier?What? Maybe 200 pounds?As far as a brand new, I'd love one (drool,drool) .... but I'm afraid,that's not in the cards.Cliff- I don't have a trailer, but if you're interested in a very reasonable tinny setup,let me know.. Jedimaster- You're boat looks awesome, but maybe a little hard to fish out of with the wraparound coming so far back and then the sides behind that are tall as well. Looks really sporty and I guess if you fished mostly from the front it'd be okay. Very "sexy" though. Besides $4000 is out of my price range. Tip upesox- Can I ask you what I/O has been so reliable for you? Fifteen years is a pretty good record.. Keep the responses coming guys. The more opinions the better. I don't want to buy something and regret it later. Most everyone here has a boat and has gone through a few to get to the one they like. Let me know what you like/dislike about any of them. Thanks,Ken. Edited September 25, 2007 by kennyman
POLLIWOGG Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 I hear ya Master, You can usually get away with automotive gaskets in fresh water and if I blew up my boat the guys at the Power Squadron would never let me hear the end of it, if I could still hear. My buddy got a 2 year old yamaha with his new pontoon boat but only got a couple seasons out of it. This year he got a new black yammy 4 stroke and it is great. If I had to go outboard with the technology so different I think I'd be talking to the bank and go new or as close to new as I could get.
POLLIWOGG Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 I hear ya Master, You can usually get away with automotive gaskets in fresh water and if I blew up my boat the guys at the Power Squadron would never let me hear the end of it, if I could still hear. My buddy got a 2 year old yamaha with his new pontoon boat but only got a couple seasons out of it. This year he got a new black yammy 4 stroke and it is great. If I had to go outboard with the technology so different I think I'd be talking to the bank and go new or as close to new as I could get.
addict Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 buy a 16foot aluminum slap 40 or 50 horses on her and this should fill all your family and fishing needs.
Sinker Posted September 26, 2007 Report Posted September 26, 2007 buy a 16foot aluminum slap 40 or 50 horses on her and this should fill all your family and fishing needs. I've been thru a few boats as well. Inboards and outboards.......the set up mentioned above is the best for versitality and ease of use. I can launch mine alone with a car, fish big water or small back lakes.....troll all day long, or cruise around at 35 MPH. My kids can tube/ski all day long behind it, the wife is comfy........its just the perfect size for a family of 4 with a dad who hunts and fishes like a mad man. I break ice to get in, in the spring, and break ice to get out in the fall. It gets lots of use, and little maintenance required. I'd say in the last 19 years I've spent $500 in maintaining my engine. More on the boat, but that's just in accessories. I've got a '93 40 mariner, on a 16 ft deep and wide Starcraft. Sinker
kennyman Posted September 26, 2007 Author Report Posted September 26, 2007 buy a 16foot aluminum slap 40 or 50 horses on her and this should fill all your family and fishing needs. This has entered my mind, but the bowrider would be great with the kids. I still haven't completely ruled it out though. Anyone else have anything to offer?Please voice your opinions. Inboard or outboard? Why? What the best of the era I'm looking at? Worst?
kennyman Posted September 26, 2007 Author Report Posted September 26, 2007 I've been thru a few boats as well. Inboards and outboards.......the set up mentioned above is the best for versitality and ease of use. I can launch mine alone with a car, fish big water or small back lakes.....troll all day long, or cruise around at 35 MPH. My kids can tube/ski all day long behind it, the wife is comfy........its just the perfect size for a family of 4 with a dad who hunts and fishes like a mad man. I break ice to get in, in the spring, and break ice to get out in the fall. It gets lots of use, and little maintenance required. I'd say in the last 19 years I've spent $500 in maintaining my engine. More on the boat, but that's just in accessories. I've got a '93 40 mariner, on a 16 ft deep and wide Starcraft. Sinker Hmmm, that does sound like an incredible combo. Only $500 in maintenance?? WOW!! You gotta like that!!! What model of Starcraft is it? Is this just like a utility boat or finished? Console,floor etc? Just trying to get an idea of what power versus weight is required to pull a skier or tube. 35mph is definetely respectable too. All I'd ever need. Thanks Sinker.
2 tone z71 Posted September 26, 2007 Report Posted September 26, 2007 (edited) Kenny running around the skinny water with your IO trimmed up is gonna cuse you loads of headaches and money, trimmed up your gonna be eating the u joints, the gimble housing if the joints fail ,your also starving the engine of coolant being trimmed up go outboard and live and fish happily Edited September 26, 2007 by 2 Tone Z71
mukluk Posted September 26, 2007 Report Posted September 26, 2007 Great advice from the post's above Kenny! I bought a 1986 Cadorette with an I/O; boy what a mistake. A true money pit those inboards. It was 7 years old when I bought it. The drive went; cost me 2700.00 for a rebuilt shipped up from Florida. I was lucky I found parts after 3 weeks searching. Mechanic told me that when the trim and tilt was running in the up position for any length of time it left the spider gears with out oil. Poor technology on the OMC out drives. Motor was a 4 cylinder Chev. hard on gas. Never again.
Zamboni Posted September 26, 2007 Report Posted September 26, 2007 I'd have to agree on 16' alum being the most versatile, combined with a 40hp it sounds like good fit. Buy the newest, best maintained engine you can with least hours on it. At very least a good test drive and comp test is necessary buying a used engine-I'm amazed how many guys are content to just see a new purchase start on muffs in driveway. Lot of entry level 16' IO boats available with 3.0 engines in good condition-many with 4.3 also. Again a thorough inspection is recomended but lots of these boats don't see the hours of a fishing machine-plenty of families use them July-August in our climate. Can't stress enough inspecting your potential purchase-when you decide to buy pay a marine mechanic to look boat over....money well spent.
jedimaster Posted September 26, 2007 Report Posted September 26, 2007 Dito as everyone above I thjink you have pretty much all your gonna get. OMC = Garbage Mercruiser much better, and more power/reliability in the price range your looking at. The one thing people are missing here is a 16 foot alluminum with a 50 or 60hp OB is a great fishing rig no doubt, but try finding one in decent condition for the price he is looking at. My only thing is that in the sub 5k market a late to mid 80's bowrider is likely gonna be in better shape as far as the outboard goes. You may want to consider just buying a brand new or near new 25hp OB and buying a poopty old 14foot alluminum then in a few years get a new 16 foot alluminum. . My boat is a bigger boat better for trollling, or casting from the front. The rear has a casting deck and I have fished with a partner in a few Derbies with no complaints from the guy n the rear. If you do get a bowrider in the early to mid 80's its definatly gonna be deeper than mine. The picture is a bit decieving. My 6 year daughter has no problem fishing from the back. Yes you don't want to drive around all day with the motor trimmed right up if you can help it. Not only can it wear the gimbal and Ujoints, but if your that shallow you will be sucking up dirt and crud into the water pump. When you get shallow switch to your bow mount trolling motor thats what its for. When I launch mine I hop on the trolling motor and drive away from the dock and start the engine away from the dock. Get a bow mount trolling motor for whatever you buy. They are great when your fishing in any type of boat. If you want to go with an OB there are plenty of mid 80's Bowriders available with OB's instead or IO's. You should be ok towing a 17 foot fiberglass check your manual for weight ratings, you may have issues on wet or gravel ramps though without a 4x4. Front wheel drive is actually better to get out of the water than rear wheel drive. Since the front wheels rarely get wet, and if they do your screwed anyway. One thing to keep in mind. Alluminum boat are like Diapers. Everyone starts out in them and everyone ends up in them in the end. Fiberglass boats are fun and look better, but alluminums are just plain better for most types of fishing and are far easier to launch and draft much shallower
Sinker Posted September 27, 2007 Report Posted September 27, 2007 (edited) Hmmm, that does sound like an incredible combo. Only $500 in maintenance?? WOW!! You gotta like that!!! What model of Starcraft is it? Is this just like a utility boat or finished? Console,floor etc? Just trying to get an idea of what power versus weight is required to pull a skier or tube. 35mph is definetely respectable too. All I'd ever need. Thanks Sinker. My original post should have read 9 years, not 19. But still, its cheap, and I use it at least twice a week, from early april until well into december every year. When I bought the boat, it was decked out, but a tiller. Its still a tiller, I just took some of the stuff out that made it look nice......I just wreck all that stuff doign what I do in it....lol. Duck hunting late in the fall will wreck a nice boat quick! You could call it a utility now.....but with a nice floor and lots of storage. I don't need anything bigger or better.....I'd just wreck it anyways. Its just a starcraft.......16wb I think.....can't remember....I painted over it Its deep and wide, rated for a 40, but the same hull with a console is rated for a 60. Edit: There was one just like mine for sale in the classifieds, but a console. Sinker Edited September 27, 2007 by Sinker
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