smally21

the 'ecoboost' ford i had mentioned earlier is now getting much better mileage. apparently programmed to eay fuel for the first 9000kms then it starts behaving itself... so, i was critiquing the engine unfairly. be interested to hear what owners are saying about them.

you are getting 30MPG in a liberty??? thats like, almost 1000km to a 74 litre tank. hamilton to temagami and back on one tank in a fairly large vehicle??? nakina and back on less than 3 tanks of fuel?? arent the rated 16/22MPG or something?? forgive all the ?????, this is quite a number. im gonna test drive one tomorrow. my mazda3 doesn't get 30MPG. we should all drive one.

it was before the change. i guess we just got lucky then. you have an interesting point about this tire brand to add to the conversation. is/was your sarcastic comment at all necessary? did it make you feel better? i hope it did.

i dont have alot of experience with many other brands/models of trailer tires. i bought THOUSANDS of goodyear marathons from 13"-16", and im sitting here trying to remember ever hearing a bad word about them, or about a failure. doesn't mean it didn't happen but i imagine people would have complained to us about tire problems. god knows they complained about everything else.

trailer tires have greater sidewall strength, are designed to run at greater pressures than car tires. are designed to run at a different camber than car tires. are more resistant to scrubbing and punctures than car tires. trailer tires are what the MTO wants to see in a blitz on the 401. the fact they are more expensive might tell you they are a different product than the cheapy car tire at walmart. marathon is a good trailer tire. alot of the discount tires will be branded 'carlisle'. tires on the rim are often not much more than the loose tire + mounting. regardless of good/bad experiences i dont think it is good practice to 'advise' someone to use a product that wasn't designed for the application and is likely to end up with fines from the MTO or worse. i find this 'here is the cheapest/easiest/scabbiest answer to your question' attitude around here a little too often. buy trailer tires because, well, they are designed for TRAILERS. if it isn't too far CERKA INDUSTRIES in milton has good prices.

+1 on brewers. if your serious about getting the right marine wire make sure it is 'tinned' and is type 3. of course, there is millions of feet of wire in boats that isn't. and the lights stay on.

my tacoma averages 19-20 MPG combined, as do most on the toyota nation forum. a full highway run doesn't show much improvement. drops to about 15-16MPG pulling a 3000lb load. handles it well but not like the 1500s i had before. owning the tacoma has resulted in moderate savings over the full size im used to driving. considering its smaller bed, interior and reduction in overall towing ability its unlikely i would do it again over a full size. but nothing but good things to say great vehicle. all the research in the world isnt going to unlock the gas company handcuffs. drive what you like, what you can afford. EVERYBODY has tried to find a cheap way to get their boat to the lake. if their was an answer youd have it by the fourth page. fishing trips all start at the gas station. the long ones often end there too.

just some reading likely been stated already.. . A vehicle's GCWR is a specific weight determined by the manufacturer to be the maximum weight of a loaded tow vehicle and its attached loaded trailer. The total weight of the tow vehicle and trailer should never exceed the manufacturer's listed GCWR [source: Ford Motor Company]. Similar to a vehicle's gross vehicle weight rating, or GVWR, the gross combination weight rating is a specific maximum weight limit determined by the manufacturer. The major difference is that the GCWR takes into account two individual (yet attached) vehicles -- the tow vehicle and the trailer. However, the gross combination weight rating definition doesn't really state how the weight rating is calculated. According to Ford Motor Company, the GCWR is calculated by adding the following weights together: The vehicle's listed curb weight, allowable payload, driver and passenger weight and trailer weight [source: Ford Motor Company]. It's important to remember that the GCWR is not an actual measurement of the weight of a tow vehicle and a trailer, but rather the combined maximum weight limit that the manufacturer has set for the two vehicles once attached. We towed all of our trailers and boats with half ton trucks. exceeded gcwr's daily. sometimes out spare "pathfinder" would join the cause and it was a very capable tow machine...vacationed with our 27' Doral in tow much more than it should have.

the letter is very common. without a system in place to collect the tax on used boats the govt tracks the tax in this strange fashion. if you have misplaced the original i wouldn't sweat it they will send you another one!! it seems particularly odd for those that imported their boats - tax was paid at the border, the trailer goes thru the RIV process, there is no dodging the tax at the border... so i phoned asking what document they are requesting. THE GOVT wants a copy of the paperwork ISSUED BY THE GOVT to prove the taxes were paid. i find this a little ridiculous....i submitted thousands of dollars in tax, it was placed in the record and a receipt was issued. now i have to send them THEIR OWN RECEIPT back to prove it happened. i see this no differently than the future shop calling up Lew and saying "hey fella, remember that TV you bought in 1999 - can you send us the receipt we are not sure if you paid for it" Still the best way to deal with the govt is just give them what they want hopefully it goes away.

talk to someone that owns the new ecoboost before buying/suggesting them. we all know the mileage ratings on vehicle windows mean nothing but the ecoboost takes the cake. a new F150 with the V6 ecoboost gets the same 14-16 MPG as any other full size truck. after paying a huge premium to get their smallest engine... BTW who are the 'authorities' and 'organizations' being referred to in regards to towing capacities? these are numbers slapped on vehicles by the manufacturers they are about as helpful as the expected mileage numbers.. +1 on the tacoma!

sadly, almost everything in that first pic (paint cans/oil) doesn't even cost anything to dump. every recyclable thing in those piles is free. not enough education/awareness? i doubt it would make any difference. i had a post like this yanked a while ago for the meer suggestion BTW

seadoo trailers would fit that as well...more optioins out there.

if there is a neutral in the line you can grab 1 leg and a neutral and run a light. likely there is not, so you can't get 120 without running more wire. of course, there is a way but..wait forget it bad idea.

Not at all. The trailer rails depend on the strength of the boat to provide rigidity. The bunks, thru the cross members, into the trailer rails provide the 'total rigidness' of the assy when loaded. All screwed up when lifted on just a few points. But there is little memory in a minor deflection of the trailer rails and no shock loads (read railroad tracks) during storage so generally no great concern. Something to think about at 34' or something...its a good point

Think they are the nicest ive seen. And ive seen alot of trailer tires!

cant say id bother for 4-5weeks. sometimes its more about the thing not sinking into the ground where it sits than letting the weight off the tires and springs. i use these huge logs i rescued from a tree job and these dont seem to sink in the ground the way the tires would. (yoiu could insert asphalt here i suppose depending on temperature). lew the rims on your trailer are pimpin'. they just need some spinners in the middle and you'd be blinged right up

wherever you find it, id be very iterested to hear your review. im running an 80lb terrova and have been tirekicking this purchase for quite a while. please post when you get it!

indeed, no longer service canada that does the processing. however you can still pick up all the forms/info/applications there. (if say, you had no computer, printer, internet access, or otherwise lived in a hut). rest is as you say, copasetic. very good, excellent, completely satisfactory. have we figured out if the OPs boat is carrying a pleasure craft licence or a vessel registration? 'vessel license' could be either and what agency was it mailed to? got to be one or the other.

more comments on pleasure craft 'registration'. Has anyone actually read any of the govt sites? and the pleasure craft licence has a 90 day requirement to update.

sinker you don't register pleasure craft for ownership purposes, just licence. so dont confuse the guy talking about registration and ownership. you keep mentioning registration perhaps you should look it up. its unusual for a regular fishing boat to carry a vessel licence. it certainly doesnt need one. also the vessel registration is only valid until the boat is sold, so the vessel licence you are holding kinda fades away at point of sale..if you chose to you would register it again in your name. a boat with a canadian vessel licence was likely not a US boat, that would seem kinda obvious. there could be some concern with a debt as another reason to obtain a vessel licence is it holding a marine mortgage... the bill of sale from current owner to you the new owner is your proof of ownership. there is no other qualifying document for ownership of a pleasure craft. as stated earlier, service canada will place the licence (numbers on the side) into your name. if the boat is commercial or a ship, disregard.

as you move them out the boat sits lower, move them out so they are off the chines, and get the boat as low as you can so it sits just above the fenders. i wouldnt be too concerned with inside/outside factor, unless they are extreme to the outside. the boat will center itself better during loading if they are on the inside but not a nig concern either. id concentrate more on the "fit" and height the boat sits at, and make sure its not hitting the chines.. good luck

well, if your ceiling joists run perpendicular to the open area then it is simple. lay out your lights, drill holes, run wire with fish tape or push/pull poles, install retrofit light. easy. if your joists run paralell to the opening then you need to drill thru the joists and run wire thru them to your pot layout, which you need to take more care in now you dont see the joist themselves. there are many tricks to running wire this way but any decent experienced or licensed pot light guy should be able to traverse 2 or 3 joist cavities when the joist run this way. its doable either way. there are tricks and specialty tools to do this, dont let some dude tell you its easier to hack your ceiling apart just because they dont know how or dont want to fiddle. of course, if insurance is paying for the ceiling drywall anyway, just how far did the flood go......

you know the saying, you win some, you lose ALOT MORE!

about 18-20 years and my kids will move out!!

my biggest complaint about kijiji is people emailing, viewing, negotiating and committing to buy items and then telling me they don't have any money, and can i hold it for them. Hmmmmm...