smitty55

I agree Dan, my first choice would be a full replacement, I had my 2001 Sierra done a couple of years back and it was $850. Money well spent in the long run and with the newer alloy tubing it will last as long as the truck easily. As with any old vehicle there always comes a time to decide when to stop putting putting coin into the old boat. In this case the car is still in pretty good shape, even the rockers are still good, and I do like my big Buicks ever since my first LeSabre back in the 80's. Actually a lot of the brake lines still look pretty good, I Krown it each year, but of course the leak is right where the clip is holding the pair running to the rear under my arse along a straight run. So I get it for sure, those lines are 25 years old, moving them around too much could be asking for trouble, but in this case it would involve minor line movement to plug in a properly flared patch line. But yea I get it when it comes to shops being worried about liability. Cheers

Tks again Dan, that schematic is handy to have. Like Lew said you're a good man. I agree that there is power available to the parking and headlights as I can turn them on with the switches when the car is off. I still can't see how the running lights come on when the twilight sentinel is in the off position as that should be an open circuit to the AL Sensor. I'm definitely leaning toward the chance that there was some sort of skewed input from one or more switches as they hadn't been used since I got the car. Also since I worked the hell out of them yesterday I have had no issue with the running lights coming on. Again today I worked them to try and get a failure and no go, all is good except for them coming on when the sentinel switch is in the off position. So far so good. Now I need to find a shop that will do a brake line repair instead of a replacement for the time being. One place said it was illegal to do so, first time I ever heard of that. Cheers

Tks guys. I haven't solved the mystery yet but I'm to the point where it isn't doing it for now at least OF that guys soldering technique leaves a lot to be desired. Soon as I saw the soldering iron I was like what the hell, the tip isn't even properly tinned, it should be shiny silver color. Sure enough you can see there was no heat transfer, it wouldn't even melt the solder on that resistor thruhole so he could use the solder sucker on it. Solder wick would have helped at least it has some flux in it. Speaking of flux I never saw him use any when he replaced the resistor, or specially when he touched up that heated pin joint at the end of the board. That would be a fail on any soldering test for sure. But he did fix it so I give him that. Dan I appreciate the offer, tks man. I highly doubt that MFS is at fault here, all functions on it work fine including the brights switch. For that matter all normal light related functions work fine including including warning beeps when I have the door open and the running lights or parking lights are switched on. So today I hooked the battery back up and the issue was still there and chronic so I went through the regimen again of thoroughly working all switches and sliders related to the lights. I've had this car for 6 years now and these switches and pots have never been used, so that's never a good thing. Well go figure I'm working the hell out of the headlight switch on the door while watching the headlamps. First time I hit it the headlights come on full, then next push lights are off. 10 seconds later daytime running lights come on and stay on, I didn't bother waiting to see if it would still cycle and I started working the headlamp door switch like 40 times and the twilight sentinel slider and it stopped happening. Then I noticed that if I put the Twilight Sentinel to the unmarked off position the running lights would come on again, like what the hell, but if I turned it on past the very light detent I could hear a relay click in the dash and the headlights would go off. After a couple of hours I went for a drive to work the brakes and came back and it happened again for a bit but again by working the two door switches and the sentinel system slider position I'm now close to 12 hours with no issues. It's not fixed yet, but at least a step in the right direction. There is one thing that stands out to me in all this, there is no way that that turning the twilight sentinel to off should turn on running lights with the ignition off. That symptom in itself points to the sensor system as the likely culprit. It could well be related to a high resistance contact somewhere too, not a component failure. Saying this, I can't see how a lighting system with no switches on would even have access to power with the ignition off in the first place, we're not talking dome lights here. Cheers

Seems a bit strange to ask an automotive question on an outdoor site but that's what's cool about this forum and sets it apart from the others. Definitely the weirdest thing I've ever come across in my 45 years of car and truck ownership. I know there's some knowledgeable folks in this group so here goes. 96 Park Ave ultra. It's been sitting for a few months due to brake line leakage and lack of funds for a proper repair instead of another patch, but is normally a daily driver. A while back the headlights only would come on by themselves at night or maybe even during the day and turn off after a while, it was real intermittent. It has now got to the point that the lights are coming on more regularly and staying on for at least two minutes each time. It's draining the battery in two days now so the battery is now disconnected and charging. Maybe that will reset something. I also worked every possible switch and slider related to lights many times. In fact as I discovered two nights ago if I work the headlamp switch on the door on/off while it happening the lights will go out. But then a while later it starts to cycle again. From some research I know there's a control module involved and also that twilight sensor failure can cause funny things to happen, but I never saw anything that had the on/off cycle as the principle symptom mentioned. So any insight would be well appreciated, I'm pretty comfortable in repairing things, I started working on aircraft instrumentation in the mid 70's right after high school where I also took electronics, so I've always used meters and test equipment since then. Cheers

That is priceless... I really got into pigeon hunting back in the 80's, it's a lot of fun and great practice for wing shooting, they fly pretty quick. I rented a farm for 5 years where I had year round shooting. There was a taxidermist that was in one gang I hunted with and he would mount them specifically with spread wings and a hook coming up the back for attaching to a line that they would set up to slide them down or leave static. Dairy farms were off limits though as all the blasting would turn the milk from the stress, beef cattle were no problem for the most part, they didn't like having them in the hay mows. In the winter the birds would stage absorbing the heat from the sun for hours before they would head out to feed so it never had to be an early shoot As for eating I really enjoy the meat, it's all dark except for the pink filet. Being so lean it requires care when cooking. The best methods I've used were the oven bags with bacon strips, slow cooker, and the clay baker works quite well too. When it comes to processing they are real easy too, it takes less than 5 seconds to breast them out skinned, nice and clean too. Grab the heart and then a quick rinse and wipe dry. I honestly don't remember exactly how I first tried the technique, I've always had American outdoor mag subscriptions since the 70's so it may have been some article on pigeon shooting in Field and Stream or Outdoor Life. Regardless, it's ridiculously simple. Hold the dove upside down in your hands under the wings with your thumbs up at the breast bone on each side. Squeeze a bit and then with your thumbs just split the quite thin skin along the breast bone and peel it down exposing the breasts. Takes a second. Then you make a claw with your thumb and two fingers with your index finger at the top. Grab the breast with thumb on one side and middle finger on the other and index finger in at the top and just pivot the wrist back and rip the the breast out, works great, no loss of meat. Leg meat is minimal, but if you had enough carcasses and legs you could make a decent stock. Cheers

Doug the bumpy side creates the channels for air flow. When I used those premade bags it made a big difference in how well the vacuum worked. That's what they told me at the store and they were correct, at least for my Seal a Meal machine.

So my bags were delivered to the door today. Glad I didn't wait, those combo packs are sold out but they still have rolls on sale. Bags seem fine, measured the thickness at .0012", about the same as the Seal a Meal. Only difference is that one side is smooth, similar to the premade bags I had bought before at Capital Cutlery so just have to make sure to put bumpy side up.

OI If I have it right that's the butt section of a fly rod in Speckled Trout pattern. You can see where the reel mounts in the bottom. Spiel I'm just curious as to that wire running through. Is it just for hanging? Lovely work btw.

Great prices compared to buying the Seal a Meal rolls for sure. I just ordered the combo pack of 6 8" 50' rolls and 6 11" 50' rolls for $109 and free shipping. Should last for many years.

Wow, you're better stocked than both main stores and the structures shop at First Air when I worked there. For a while I had those AN part numbers pretty well figured out.

So I've been seeing lot's of posts lately on the edible wild site that folks have been finding puffballs. Usually it's later in the summer or fall after wet cool weather but these recent rains have triggered them. My normal spot didn't have any but I did see some in a farmers field. Anyway out of the blue my daughter shows up with 3 puffballs for me, two were from a spot she had seen them last year and one was on a golf course they had played that same evening. I usually slice them in 1" pancakes and fry them like that but this time I tried something different and were they ever good. I still cut a thick slab but this time I cubed the pieces, gave them a quick sear in oil and then added a pile of my wild garlic compound butter. I'm doing them like that from now on. Dinner last night was venison back straps and Spanish onion finished with that same butter and two slices of cubed puffball. I know whats on the menu tonight again.

https://www.flexpackshop.ca/ Good sale on right now too

Not that they would last that long, but a well sealed vacuum bag will preserve it's contents for years, I've taken three year old pieces of tenderloin that I found on a freezer cleanup and they were surprisingly fine still, the dog was disappointed though hehe.

For many years I worked on a wide variety of aviation motors, both ac and dc, that were used for small galley fans running at 20k to large fans used for cooling radio racks to ventilation systems in aircraft. The main testing done on coils in armatures and rotors was doing an insulation resistance test ( also known a a megger check) and also doing inductance testing on the armature windings. Over the years I noticed that even though some motors would pass these tests, there was a direct correlation between readings on the outer end of the tolerances and lowers speeds and higher current draw in these motors. So by changing out the armature for example, test results were much improved. So offhand I would definitely agree with HH that it's quite possible that your coils are breaking down, if they're not that expensive and easy enough to replace it would be worth swapping them out just as preventive maintenance if not peace of mind. Cheers

So I used these pellets a couple of weeks back. They produce a good solid smoke in the Big Chief but it seems to be faster burning per pan. The one big difference I noticed for sure is that my grills were coated with a film that would take like five sessions with wood chips. I soaked them in the laundry tub and the water was so black, like maybe 2" on the secchi disk at most. Not sure what to make of that, but the result was still great. Maybe I'll mix them with chips next time and see how that works.

Tks, personally I hate subtitles for a whole show so it would have to be dubbed for me. I checked a torrent site and a lot of them have hard coded subs but I'll keep looking.

They are under the small game license, no migratory license required. Non toxic shot.

So does it have English subtitles or is it dubbed and if it is how well is it done? Tks

I put more of the blame on Ford, he's the one allowing them to do it even though he keeps saying he's out to help Ontario residents with their finances, total Bull.

Here's the summary. https://ero.ontario.ca/notice/013-4124 Now to try and figure out a strategy, no one has hunted them before. I also wonder if they would be good bear bait, goose carcasses certainly work well.

Exactly, that ship had helm control so it could maneuver to slow the other one down.

That's correct, the red ship had lost helm control.

When you say the bearing has gone south I take it you mean the built in sensor is shot but the bearing itself is still good. I've had an 01 Sierra 4x4 for some time and have had to replace a few over the years, but it was always the sensor except for the first time. Now I just put up with the abs dash light. So when you mentioned system check I take it it senses an open circuit on start up and flashes the error. And If I have it right it's a 2 wire run along the frame to where it connects to the abs module with some sort of connector. Good to know, I'll have to give those a check. Tks.

No doubt he's definitely making up for the times when the rate was fixed at off peak rates and now we're paying for it big time. My bill this time has doubled but for sure some of it is due to the AC running everyday.

That stuff works great, i just used it on a wasp nest that wifey spotted in the back yard. The trick is to go at night.