smitty55

80% of covid deaths have occurred in people over 80, another 18% in people in their 70s. I don't have the numbers for people in their 60's but basically when you remove deaths that have occurred in LTC facilities the annual flu kills more people each year, including children. In BC they just admitted that of all the deaths in the province there were only 2 that happened outside of LTC. There's still way too much fear mongering going on.

If I was to buy another one this is the one I would get. Presto still makes the top rated ones. More pricey in Canada but it will last forever. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYCFU?tag=aboutcom02thespruceeats-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&ascsubtag=4136488|n751a9192676c4effa9deeffdcdaac65420

My thoughts exactly, my pressure cooker just has the weight on it that spins whereas my much larger 16 qt 1970's Presto "pressure canner" has the gauge which shows temp and pressure as well as the pressure regulator weight and a small air vent with a sliding plunger that pops up and seals the unit when it's hot enough. It also comes with a rack which will hold 8 jars.

I'm not a fan of them on my little 1 acre of Lanark property, they do way too much damage. Had to take down a 14" maple beside my house after they did some major damage over the course of one day while I was at work. There was a good 20ft spread of wood chips on the driveway.

If you like dills you will love these. I had some from 2017 with lunch yesterday, still nice and crunchy and just the right amount of bite

Floater if you want to try canning carrots again I highly recommend you try making dilled carrots. They stay crunchy for years, have great dill flavour and are also great with a hot pepper or two in the jar. They turn out best using baby carrots but I've used full sized ones too cut into spears. Easy to make as well and the recipe is per jar so you can make as many as you want at a time. Here's the recipe from the Jean Pare Company's Coming preserves book. Dilled carrots- double recipe for quart jars head of dill, 1 per pint (more if you like) small clove of garlic, 1 per pint (I use way more lol) baby carrots or large ones cut into fingers, to fill 1 pint Hot peppers 1 per pint, two for quarts pickling salt, 1 Tbsp. per pint 1/3 cup boiling white vinegar per pint Boiling water, to fill jar In a bottom of a hot sterilized pint jar, place head of dill and garlic. Fill with carrot sticks to within 1 inch of the top. Measure salt over carrots . Add vinegar. Fill with water to within 1/2 inch of top. Place sterilized metal lid on jar and screw metal band on finger tight only. Process in a boiling bath for 20 minutes Let stand 6 weeks before serving.

Those Sabiki rigs wouldn't be legal here without removing two of the hooks. I know a guy that has used them for herring but he said they're a pain to use as the tend to get all tangled up.

Bottom depth finder for ice fishing was my first thought. Easy to spot when it reaches the surface when a good distance away as you walk back.

I take it you've met Adam, and his family. He did a bang up job on White Lake for the dozen years he was there after his dad bought Cedar Cove resort and creating Adams Outfitters and building it up bigger and better each year. Last three years he ran a derby for charity. His new bungalows I believe were relocated to Loon lodge a week ago. Not sure what the previous owners had for shacks. https://www.facebook.com/adamsoutfitting/ When you speak of not going off the roads at night is it because of sketchy ice in some areas or is it more related to pressure cracks and ridges? Cheers

That's the cat's arse for sure. With a regular quad no matter how good the tires are and how much power it has if you get the frame hung up you are stuck. Same with a 4x4 truck. Out of curiosity, have you ever deliberately tried to get it stuck like in a deep drift just to see if you could?

Watched Dark Waters with Wifey last week, pretty decent movie.

It's so good as bread crumbs Cliff. Those were 3 1lb loaves and we got 12 cups, cost me $2.25 lol. In the last two weeks we had used them on a baked mac n cheese, chicken legs, and in a meat loaf, it dresses up any dish. I have a couple of spice rubs that I made up to use for meat in my smoker but they have now been getting regular use in the kitchen. They work great mixed in with the bread crumbs too. Both those blends contain a good amount of my own smoked paprika, when I start running low I'll buy it bulk and put 2 or 3 pie pans full in the smoker while I've got a batch of whatever going. It gets plenty of use in the kitchen too, it was so good on the potato salad last week. One other thing I've done is smoked coarse salt, again in a pie plate, it takes on a nice gold colour and is so nice and unexpected coming out of a grinder, think tomatoes ,cukes, corn on the cob, mashed taters, the list is endless and it enhances them all I find. Next thing I'm going to try is a good amount of red peppercorns I have in excess, they keep clogging up my grinders even with 80% good black as they're quite soft. All I use is coarse fresh ground pink salt anymore except for pickling and brining so I'll try that in the smoker too, maybe even some black peppercorns just because, hehe. Cheers

Sometimes it's the simplest things that are the most enjoyable. Last week I picked up three loaves of half price fresh bread from the reduced rack. Yesterday they got cut up into big chunks and into the Big Chief for 4 hours and 4 half full pans of pellets. Then they go into the food processor and we get a good pile of smoked bread crumbs that we use a lot for many dishes, there is no comparison to store bought. We separate into bags and freeze them, they keep very well. Here's what they look like coming out of the smoker, the kitchen smells great.

I got a letter in the mail about the changes forthcoming. If you want to go back to time of use then do nothing

I did mine online last Tuesday and got it in the mail yesterday, can't argue with that for good service.

LMAO

Right on, did you sit on any spots for the evening fish or was it all trolling? Great sunrise pic btw, got the lake level too. It would be a good print. Cheers

I agree Dan, my first choice would be a full replacement, I had my 2001 Sierra done a couple of years back and it was $850. Money well spent in the long run and with the newer alloy tubing it will last as long as the truck easily. As with any old vehicle there always comes a time to decide when to stop putting putting coin into the old boat. In this case the car is still in pretty good shape, even the rockers are still good, and I do like my big Buicks ever since my first LeSabre back in the 80's. Actually a lot of the brake lines still look pretty good, I Krown it each year, but of course the leak is right where the clip is holding the pair running to the rear under my arse along a straight run. So I get it for sure, those lines are 25 years old, moving them around too much could be asking for trouble, but in this case it would involve minor line movement to plug in a properly flared patch line. But yea I get it when it comes to shops being worried about liability. Cheers

Tks again Dan, that schematic is handy to have. Like Lew said you're a good man. I agree that there is power available to the parking and headlights as I can turn them on with the switches when the car is off. I still can't see how the running lights come on when the twilight sentinel is in the off position as that should be an open circuit to the AL Sensor. I'm definitely leaning toward the chance that there was some sort of skewed input from one or more switches as they hadn't been used since I got the car. Also since I worked the hell out of them yesterday I have had no issue with the running lights coming on. Again today I worked them to try and get a failure and no go, all is good except for them coming on when the sentinel switch is in the off position. So far so good. Now I need to find a shop that will do a brake line repair instead of a replacement for the time being. One place said it was illegal to do so, first time I ever heard of that. Cheers

Tks guys. I haven't solved the mystery yet but I'm to the point where it isn't doing it for now at least OF that guys soldering technique leaves a lot to be desired. Soon as I saw the soldering iron I was like what the hell, the tip isn't even properly tinned, it should be shiny silver color. Sure enough you can see there was no heat transfer, it wouldn't even melt the solder on that resistor thruhole so he could use the solder sucker on it. Solder wick would have helped at least it has some flux in it. Speaking of flux I never saw him use any when he replaced the resistor, or specially when he touched up that heated pin joint at the end of the board. That would be a fail on any soldering test for sure. But he did fix it so I give him that. Dan I appreciate the offer, tks man. I highly doubt that MFS is at fault here, all functions on it work fine including the brights switch. For that matter all normal light related functions work fine including including warning beeps when I have the door open and the running lights or parking lights are switched on. So today I hooked the battery back up and the issue was still there and chronic so I went through the regimen again of thoroughly working all switches and sliders related to the lights. I've had this car for 6 years now and these switches and pots have never been used, so that's never a good thing. Well go figure I'm working the hell out of the headlight switch on the door while watching the headlamps. First time I hit it the headlights come on full, then next push lights are off. 10 seconds later daytime running lights come on and stay on, I didn't bother waiting to see if it would still cycle and I started working the headlamp door switch like 40 times and the twilight sentinel slider and it stopped happening. Then I noticed that if I put the Twilight Sentinel to the unmarked off position the running lights would come on again, like what the hell, but if I turned it on past the very light detent I could hear a relay click in the dash and the headlights would go off. After a couple of hours I went for a drive to work the brakes and came back and it happened again for a bit but again by working the two door switches and the sentinel system slider position I'm now close to 12 hours with no issues. It's not fixed yet, but at least a step in the right direction. There is one thing that stands out to me in all this, there is no way that that turning the twilight sentinel to off should turn on running lights with the ignition off. That symptom in itself points to the sensor system as the likely culprit. It could well be related to a high resistance contact somewhere too, not a component failure. Saying this, I can't see how a lighting system with no switches on would even have access to power with the ignition off in the first place, we're not talking dome lights here. Cheers

Seems a bit strange to ask an automotive question on an outdoor site but that's what's cool about this forum and sets it apart from the others. Definitely the weirdest thing I've ever come across in my 45 years of car and truck ownership. I know there's some knowledgeable folks in this group so here goes. 96 Park Ave ultra. It's been sitting for a few months due to brake line leakage and lack of funds for a proper repair instead of another patch, but is normally a daily driver. A while back the headlights only would come on by themselves at night or maybe even during the day and turn off after a while, it was real intermittent. It has now got to the point that the lights are coming on more regularly and staying on for at least two minutes each time. It's draining the battery in two days now so the battery is now disconnected and charging. Maybe that will reset something. I also worked every possible switch and slider related to lights many times. In fact as I discovered two nights ago if I work the headlamp switch on the door on/off while it happening the lights will go out. But then a while later it starts to cycle again. From some research I know there's a control module involved and also that twilight sensor failure can cause funny things to happen, but I never saw anything that had the on/off cycle as the principle symptom mentioned. So any insight would be well appreciated, I'm pretty comfortable in repairing things, I started working on aircraft instrumentation in the mid 70's right after high school where I also took electronics, so I've always used meters and test equipment since then. Cheers

That is priceless... I really got into pigeon hunting back in the 80's, it's a lot of fun and great practice for wing shooting, they fly pretty quick. I rented a farm for 5 years where I had year round shooting. There was a taxidermist that was in one gang I hunted with and he would mount them specifically with spread wings and a hook coming up the back for attaching to a line that they would set up to slide them down or leave static. Dairy farms were off limits though as all the blasting would turn the milk from the stress, beef cattle were no problem for the most part, they didn't like having them in the hay mows. In the winter the birds would stage absorbing the heat from the sun for hours before they would head out to feed so it never had to be an early shoot As for eating I really enjoy the meat, it's all dark except for the pink filet. Being so lean it requires care when cooking. The best methods I've used were the oven bags with bacon strips, slow cooker, and the clay baker works quite well too. When it comes to processing they are real easy too, it takes less than 5 seconds to breast them out skinned, nice and clean too. Grab the heart and then a quick rinse and wipe dry. I honestly don't remember exactly how I first tried the technique, I've always had American outdoor mag subscriptions since the 70's so it may have been some article on pigeon shooting in Field and Stream or Outdoor Life. Regardless, it's ridiculously simple. Hold the dove upside down in your hands under the wings with your thumbs up at the breast bone on each side. Squeeze a bit and then with your thumbs just split the quite thin skin along the breast bone and peel it down exposing the breasts. Takes a second. Then you make a claw with your thumb and two fingers with your index finger at the top. Grab the breast with thumb on one side and middle finger on the other and index finger in at the top and just pivot the wrist back and rip the the breast out, works great, no loss of meat. Leg meat is minimal, but if you had enough carcasses and legs you could make a decent stock. Cheers

Doug the bumpy side creates the channels for air flow. When I used those premade bags it made a big difference in how well the vacuum worked. That's what they told me at the store and they were correct, at least for my Seal a Meal machine.

So my bags were delivered to the door today. Glad I didn't wait, those combo packs are sold out but they still have rolls on sale. Bags seem fine, measured the thickness at .0012", about the same as the Seal a Meal. Only difference is that one side is smooth, similar to the premade bags I had bought before at Capital Cutlery so just have to make sure to put bumpy side up.

OI If I have it right that's the butt section of a fly rod in Speckled Trout pattern. You can see where the reel mounts in the bottom. Spiel I'm just curious as to that wire running through. Is it just for hanging? Lovely work btw.