mike rousseau Posted June 29, 2015 Report Posted June 29, 2015 Bad news... Found a crack in my hull It's a 1998 Lund explorer 1600 Anyone ever have this happen? How did you fix it? Can a good aluminium welder just run a bead down the crack? I don't even know where to start with this one It's way above the waterline... The rivet in the pick is for structural support on my deck... Inside the boat the crack is concealed by aluminium deck material... Please help Thanks Mike
aplumma Posted June 29, 2015 Report Posted June 29, 2015 Mike this can be fixed by a competent welder. A small hole drilled at the ends of the crack and a TIG weld will make it good as new. The concern I have is why did it crack and is the stress factor still present. The deck needs added support to prevent future stress cracks. Art
Ralph Field Posted June 29, 2015 Report Posted June 29, 2015 You must of had someone fat like me on your deck. You may be able to seal it with marine silicone , but I would be afraid of it still spreading. You may want to figure out how to support your deck to relieve the stress on that rivet.
mike rousseau Posted June 29, 2015 Author Report Posted June 29, 2015 Mike this can be fixed by a competent welder. A small hole drilled at the ends of the crack and a TIG weld will make it good as new. The concern I have is why did it crack and is the stress factor still present. The deck needs added support to prevent future stress cracks. Art I think I'm just hard on my boat art... It's 17 years old I beat the snot out of it in the chop... So I may need to take it easy when I'm driving in chop... The boat flexes a lot and I think the deck has created a point on both sides... So the boat flexes around that point and caused the crack...
mike rousseau Posted June 29, 2015 Author Report Posted June 29, 2015 And I know a very good aluminium welder.... He builds aluminium framed docks and boat lifts
Old Ironmaker Posted June 29, 2015 Report Posted June 29, 2015 (edited) I'm sorry to hear that Mike. Yes I was told a good aluminum welder may repair a smaller crack from the outside. I had a stem to stern and port to starboard crack in a Lund I bought used from a dealer 2 days after I bought it. They reimbursed me fully. Doesn't a Lund have a lifetime warranty on their hulls? I would check with Lund before doing anything that may void any warranty. A close friend taught welding at Mohawk College in Hamilton. He said Aluminum is the hardest metal to weld properly. It is a separate ticket if I remember right. Edited June 29, 2015 by Old Ironmaker
aplumma Posted June 29, 2015 Report Posted June 29, 2015 Yup it is the nature of the beast being aluminum we tend to ride them hard. I have some good scars on the bottom of my jet boat from pushing rapids on the river. Now the fiberglass boat it very rarely even bumped on a dock .... go figure. lol Art
wkrp Posted June 30, 2015 Report Posted June 30, 2015 Proper repair would be to cut out the crack and install an aluminum doubler on top or inside for a flush repair. This would require access to both sides. If welded it will just crack again because of the stress at the rivet.
chimpboy_to Posted June 30, 2015 Report Posted June 30, 2015 You should call Lund, should still be under warranty. Good luck.
Old Ironmaker Posted June 30, 2015 Report Posted June 30, 2015 That's what I was told, Lund has a lifetime warranty. You must look into it.
irishfield Posted June 30, 2015 Report Posted June 30, 2015 Remember, when you weld aluminum it then has half the original strength it once had.... unless you re-heat treat it. Lifetime warrantee, I've never bothered to read mine other than I know my '07 was transferable. Not sure a '98 would be and if it was I believe the "trail of ownership" has to be registered with Lund as it happens. Worth the call to find out. You have a better overall picture of where this is on the boat Mike? As others have noted it needs more support or more rivets. Looks like they're asking that spot to do too much work.
mike rousseau Posted June 30, 2015 Author Report Posted June 30, 2015 This is what I found for Lund warranty.... So that's no help to me... I don't even know who the original owner was
mike rousseau Posted June 30, 2015 Author Report Posted June 30, 2015 (edited) I'll post more pics later of the location I don't even think it's the rivet that cause the crack... I just think the revet was the week point were the hull flexes too much The location is right where my deck ends.... The crack is a little visible inside the boat then it goes a few inches under my deck about 1-2" under the plywood... So when the hull flexes in waves this is the most "rigid" part of the internal structure... And right beside it is 2-3 feet of unsupported aluminium... Edited June 30, 2015 by Mike Rousseau
mike rousseau Posted June 30, 2015 Author Report Posted June 30, 2015 Those pics show where it is... Th second pic shows the 1/2" that is exposed
Old Ironmaker Posted June 30, 2015 Report Posted June 30, 2015 The good news Mike is your boat design allows a fairly easy access to the underside of the hull. That Pro V I had that had the huge cracks had to have the interior removed to access the hull and that is very expensive. 80 man hours for labour. Someone got a great deal after it was repaired.
irishfield Posted June 30, 2015 Report Posted June 30, 2015 So this crack and rivet is on the mating surface to the deck bulkhead flange? Looks like you have full access through that hatch. I can also see the paint appears scuffed as if you scrubbed a dock across this spot. It all adds up to stress and flex and the rivet hole starts the crack as it's already weakened by the hole (and a loose rivet). I'd stop drill the crack, put a small doubler in between the hull and the bulkhead (to rivet around the crack) and add a few more rivets along the length of the bulkhead flange AND do the other side while I was at it. Must be someone close that can help you do the same.
Old Ironmaker Posted June 30, 2015 Report Posted June 30, 2015 Irish that is a repair I have seen done for passenger airliners on Mayday if I recall correctly.
DRIFTER_016 Posted July 1, 2015 Report Posted July 1, 2015 So this crack and rivet is on the mating surface to the deck bulkhead flange? Looks like you have full access through that hatch. I can also see the paint appears scuffed as if you scrubbed a dock across this spot. It all adds up to stress and flex and the rivet hole starts the crack as it's already weakened by the hole (and a loose rivet). I'd stop drill the crack, put a small doubler in between the hull and the bulkhead (to rivet around the crack) and add a few more rivets along the length of the bulkhead flange AND do the other side while I was at it. Must be someone close that can help you do the same. Don't forget a generous amount of skiaflex or 3m 5200 between the hull and doubler. Should be a pretty easy fix.
mike rousseau Posted July 1, 2015 Author Report Posted July 1, 2015 So the doubler inside is to reinforce the stressed area right...? So drill and weld the crack... Add a doubler inside for support... I'm taking my boat to a buddy that welds aluminium for a living... See what he thinks
irishfield Posted July 1, 2015 Report Posted July 1, 2015 The doubler is to hold the cracked area together so it doesn't spread. The extra rivets are to take care of the "working" that area is seeing (although you did hit a dock by the scuff marks).... and I said nothing about welding it, other than it will have 1/2 the strength of original when you're done. Your boat, your choice how to proceed.
mike rousseau Posted July 1, 2015 Author Report Posted July 1, 2015 The doubler is to hold the cracked area together so it doesn't spread. The extra rivets are to take care of the "working" that area is seeing (although you did hit a dock by the scuff marks).... and I said nothing about welding it, other than it will have 1/2 the strength of original when you're done. Your boat, your choice how to proceed. Oh ok Thanks...
DRIFTER_016 Posted July 2, 2015 Report Posted July 2, 2015 I wouldn't bother welding it. Just doubler, extra rivits and sika flex or 3M 5200 between doubler and inside of hull to seal it all up properly.
davey buoy Posted July 2, 2015 Report Posted July 2, 2015 Dave and Wayne know way to much for their years. .They have both helped me a few times.I would listen to them if it was me.Good luck Mike any way you end up going.
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