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Posted

Good afternoon

 

So... 2005 F150 FX4 5.4L

 

So I have a clicking sound in my front end... Passenger side...

 

It has a metallic sound to it...

 

A while back my passenger brake stuck and everything got burning hot...

 

I got underneath and nothing felt loose or anything...

 

The sound got stringer and more uniform in 4x4

 

Any thoughts?

Posted

Brake or wheel bearing. Seen lots and lots of f150 seize brakes and loose frt bearings

 

Ok... That's not so bad..

 

I took the brakes apart and filed where the tin slides go... I didn't know I had to do this when I did the brakes... So they aren't sticking anymore...

 

 

 

Also I forgot to mention my ABS light and e brake light are staying on... I changed my e brake shoes and hardware today... And as far as I know the ABS sensor is in the bearing assembly... So bearing is making sense...

Posted

Lift the offending wheel give a spin and check for play. Usually the later fords its a rotor assembly but the there is aftermarket bearing only available.

Any q, s dont hesitate to ask

Posted (edited)

Ok

 

So bearing assembly changed....

 

My vibrations at 70+km/h are gone...

 

But the clicking sound is still there...

 

And e brake and ABS lights are still on...

 

I only hear the clicking when driving under 20km/h...

 

I was also able to hear the clicking when I spun my front passenger wheel when it was still lifted....

 

Any thoughts...?

 

Disregard... Vibration still there

Edited by Mike Rousseau
Posted

 

 

Make sure the tone ring isnt damaged on shaft

Definitely getting above my knowledge of trucks here...

 

As guess bent/damaged brake clip

Not sure exactly what that is either...

 

I can get complete cv axles for $80 rack and from what I saw on YouTube I can replace them myself...

 

 

That being said the cv shaft looks ok... Boots look fine...

Posted (edited)

Just noticed this... I'm not sure if this is related to the sound but now I have another part to get fixed... Leak where the driveshaft connects to the differential...

 

image-103.jpg

Edited by Mike Rousseau
Posted

There are some seals and bearing in the front of your differential that can go. I just replaced my rear end on a Ranger for $300, which was much less than the garage wanted to charge me. A minimum of $1500, but I know it would have been more when they got into brakes. So rear brakes and a diff from the wreckers all for less than $500.

Car repairs can drive you nuts! I feel for you.

Posted

The hubs disengage with vacuum applied.
If vacuum fails it defaults to lock, just in case you rip off the hose in the bush.
The noise could be a bad lock too.

The leak at the diff is called a pinion seal. It will need to be replaced.

 

Posted

If the red brake lamp is staying lit, check the brake fluid level.
If low, this can turn on that light. If level is OK and the park brake pedal is fully retracted the fluid level switch in the master cylinder may be stuck down or has a bad switch (It's a magnetic switch).

Posted

If the red brake lamp is staying lit, check the brake fluid level.

If low, this can turn on that light. If level is OK and the park brake pedal is fully retracted the fluid level switch in the master cylinder may be stuck down or has a bad switch (It's a magnetic switch).

I checked and it looked fine

 

I'll double check and top up of needed...

 

Thank you so much everyone for the help...

 

I'm learning a lot between you guys and YouTube...

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