Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I read on Yamaha's site the following instructions (10 hours total break-in)

 

-First hour 2000rpm

-Second hour 3000rpm

-Last 8 hours full rpm for not longer than 5 minutes at a time

 

So should I be running a constant 2000,3000 rpm respectively or slowly speed up to each level and run there

for a few minutes then idle down to 1000,1500 etc?

 

Once I can run at full rpm should I be gradually reaching max rpm and holding it for 5 minutes or should I be hammering it?

 

 

I plan to change oil & filter after the first 2 hours, then again when break in is complete. I'm fairly handy with repairs I've just never owned any new outboards and my little car didnt require a break in.

Posted

The 2000 and 3000 is the max rpm for the period. Varying the speed and the load is the key to breaking in the motor. Check the manual also to see if any additional lubrication is needed (if it is a 2 stroke). The oil used is a break in oil check before you remove it earlier than it should be. If you refill it with a thicker oil it might effect the remainder of the break in. I trust the engineers that decided the guidelines so stick with them to the letter and you should have a long and happy life with your motor.

 

 

Art

Posted

I read on Yamaha's site the following instructions (10 hours total break-in)

 

-First hour 2000rpm

-Second hour 3000rpm

-Last 8 hours full rpm for not longer than 5 minutes at a time

 

So should I be running a constant 2000,3000 rpm respectively or slowly speed up to each level and run there

for a few minutes then idle down to 1000,1500 etc?

 

Once I can run at full rpm should I be gradually reaching max rpm and holding it for 5 minutes or should I be hammering it?

 

 

I plan to change oil & filter after the first 2 hours, then again when break in is complete. I'm fairly handy with repairs I've just never owned any new outboards and my little car didnt require a break in.

 

They don't want you to go over 200 rpm during the first hour.

Run around changing rpms. Say cruise at 1500 and then run up to 2000 and down to 1000.

Don't just run it a 2000 rpm for an hour. Motors like to have their rpms varied during break in.

The same procedure should be used at each level until your 10 hours are done.

Posted

Run the engine at a consistent rpm of 2000rpm`s. For it is not about the rpm`s but having a consistent heat.

Changing the rpm`s just a few hundred rpm`s can dramatically change the temperature of the block and moving parts in the engine causing warpage

and blown gaskets.

 

Do exactly as the manual says.

Posted

From the Yamaha outboard motor site.

 

What is the break-in period for my new four-stroke Yamaha Outboard?

 

New engines require a period of break-in to allow the mating surfaces of moving parts to mate evenly. Correct break-in, as described in your Owner’s Manual, will help your outboard provide proper performance and longer engine life. Yamaha’s four-stroke engines have a 10-hour break-in period as follows:

FOUR STROKE OUTBOARDS

Interval Procedure

1st Hour Operate the engine at varying speeds up to 2000 rpms or approximately 1/2 throttle.

2nd Hour Increase the engine speed until the boat is on plane (but avoid full throttle operaton) and then back off on the throttle while keeping the boat at a planing speed.

Next 8 Hours Run the engine at any speed however avoid operating at full throttle for more than 5 minutes at a time.

After the 1st 10 Hours Operate the engine normally.

 

 

 

The break-in maintenance is at 20 hours. For the 10 hours after the break-in and before the service you can operate the engine normally.

 

 

Art

Posted (edited)

Thank you :) I still would prefer to change after the first 2 hours but if the manual says it doesn't need it I guess it doesn't need it.

 

Just though it would be good if there is any metal in the oil from everything seating it would be good to get rid of it.

Edited by RangerGuy
Posted

I'm the sure engine was run at the factory before it was put on your boat. I wouldn't worry too much about metal floating around in there.

Posted

do as the manual suggest's is the best way to ensure best possible break in and engine life, i know it's tough though, on my yammy sled for the first 200k couldn't go over 7000rpm then for next 300 couldn't go over 8000rpm with only the occasional wot blast to 10.8000rpm but it was worth it after 13000km doesn't use a drop of oil

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recent Topics

    Popular Topics

    Upcoming Events

    No upcoming events found

×
×
  • Create New...