cowanjo Posted January 29, 2012 Report Posted January 29, 2012 Good Afternoon, sitting inside thinking about lake of the woods and making sure I have a second prop. Looking around seems the above is new http://www.mercurymarine.com/propellers/aluminum/spitfire/ I have a 60HP 2010 4stroke EFI on my Smokercraft proangler XL. Does anyone have a view on these and are they worth the difference. Secondly was thinking of maybe 14 pitch? Any help and thoughts would be greatfully accepted
scugpg Posted January 29, 2012 Report Posted January 29, 2012 Good Afternoon, sitting inside thinking about lake of the woods and making sure I have a second prop. Looking around seems the above is new http://www.mercurymarine.com/propellers/aluminum/spitfire/ I have a 60HP 2010 4stroke EFI on my Smokercraft proangler XL. Does anyone have a view on these and are they worth the difference. Secondly was thinking of maybe 14 pitch? Any help and thoughts would be greatfully accepted hey bud what do you have on there now for a prop? You'll want to get some rpm readings first as that will help you find the right pitch. Merc has a prop calculator to input those readings. Turning point propellers makes a good prop and interchangeable hub system and very good price point. Depending on how much weight is in your boat I'm guessing a 12 or 13 pitch might be recommended once you get the rpm readings at wot with your existing prop.
bigbuck Posted January 30, 2012 Report Posted January 30, 2012 If your currrent prop is working for you, get another one that is the same. If you want one that planes better, go down one size in pitch keeping in mind that your rpms at full throttle will increase by a couple of hundred, if you are looking for more top speed, go up one size in pitch, you will drop a couple of hundred rpm BUT it will take longer to get on plane with a full boat. Prop selection isn't an exact science and really is about trial and error to find what you like and what works for you. That's why I said to stick with what you have if it works for you. Collecting props gets expensive. Make sure you have a spare prop nut, locking ring and cotter pin. You won't have a problem hitting rocks if you pay attention to your charts and your fishfinder.
craigdritchie Posted January 30, 2012 Report Posted January 30, 2012 (edited) Spitfire propeller was introduced last August (click here for announcement, more info, and a video link. Sorry, you'll have to scroll down to August 8 ..... direct link won't work for some reason). Whether it's "worth the difference" or not depends on what it is you're trying to achieve. What's your current prop? Are you happy with it? If not, then why not? Edited January 30, 2012 by Craig_Ritchie
I'mHooked Posted January 30, 2012 Report Posted January 30, 2012 One of the things he could be looking for is to get on plane easier. I do know that with 3 guys in his boat there was a bit of a requirement for a "ballast" shift to help get'er up. Hey, the ballast looks a lot like the guy in my avatar photo! (I'll just sit with the Minn Kota next time!)
scugpg Posted January 30, 2012 Report Posted January 30, 2012 Dropping pitch doesn't always lower your top end speed - if you are not already in the recommended WOT range. Once you start adding people and heavy gear your rpms head south and a prop change is usually necessary. Sometimes its necessary to have props for different applications.
cowanjo Posted January 31, 2012 Author Report Posted January 31, 2012 I will get the pitch of the prop this weekend, as my partner above indicates when we get up and going no issue getting up and going with three guys and far too many musky lures in the back takes some movement of weight forward. I note with interest how we got up on plane quickly with first day three musky man at the front. Thanks as always for the help guys.
bigbuck Posted January 31, 2012 Report Posted January 31, 2012 You have to be sure of your RPM's, do you have a tach on the boat?? If you drop too low in pitch, you may raise the rpm's above the recommended limit and that will definitely end up badly for your motor, overevving is not what you want to be doing.
Tybo Posted January 31, 2012 Report Posted January 31, 2012 For better performance all around there's only one way to go. STAINLESS STEEL. If you don't want to dollar up try a four blade.
lew Posted January 31, 2012 Report Posted January 31, 2012 For better performance all around there's only one way to go. STAINLESS STEEL. Don't know if a stainless would make much difference on a 60 HP Paul, specially enough of a difference to warrant all the extra $$$$
Tybo Posted February 1, 2012 Report Posted February 1, 2012 Don't know if a stainless would make much difference on a 60 HP Paul, specially enough of a difference to warrant all the extra $$$$ You are right Lew.Wouldn't make much of a difference. Myself I would go 4 blade aluminum.Better hole shot and a nice even torque at WOT. A 3 blade with new technology will make a difference in the boat when load light,but nothing you would notice fully load. Where you would notice better performance all round with a 4 blade. A 4 blade aluminum isn't much more cost of a 3.
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