Marcum LX-5 Modification, owners please come in

[ah_long]

I posted this on Ice Shanty and I thought some OFNers might be interested

 

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I was a Humminbird ICE 55 user and I have just "side-graded" to a 2012 LX-5.

 

First thing's first, the 2012 LX-5 doesn't come with the battery indicator anymore and according to Marcum, the indicator is discontinued. In return, Marcum users get a 3 stage charger. 2012 models also come with a snow shield.

 

As soon as I unbox the unit, I realized the head unit sits too low and it crimps the transducer cable. Due to the low height of the head unit, it makes it hard to remove the transducer from the holder. On top of that, it's very inconvenient to store the cable underneath the head unit (I've seen some creative ways of storing the cable such as wrapping it around the flasher display, but c'mon, on a $500 unit?).

 

Here's a picture that shows the issue, you can see how little clearance there is:

 

 

Coming from the ICE-55, this is definitely a disappointment. The ICE 55 has a great cable management system and a built in battery indicator. Anyhow, I've sold my ICE 55 already and it's time to make this work. I went to the local hardware store, bought some 1/4 nuts and bolts and raised the unit but 0.75".

 

 

 

now as you can see, there's much more space between the display and the transducer thus a lot easier to remove the transducer and eliminates crimping.

 

 

And yes, it would fit in the soft pack with no clearance issues.

 

 

However, ultimately the best solution would be to have a new bracket for the head unit that raises the head unit by approximately 0.75". That way, there would sufficient space to store the excess transducer cable between the head unit and the metal bracket.

 

And if possible, having two cable posts under the head unit after it has been raised would be great.

 

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My next project would be to install a battery indicator on the unit, most likely a Vexilar D130.

 

I have yet to take it out on the ice as there's no ice yet, but initial impressions and design goes out to the ICE 55 unit. Why I switched you may ask? everyone says the LX-5 is the bomb and I decided to check it out first hand.

[Fishnwire]

Thanks for the head's up...I just went and checked mine. I must have an older one.

 

That is a bit of a bummer that the unit now has no battery indicator and the transducer clearance issue. Like you say...on a $500 unit that is also as you say, the bomb? Kind of a disappointment.

 

I picked mine up at the very end of last season and it hasn't seen ice yet. It has the battery indicator and no clearance issue, but I did get the snow shield though. My brother bought one the year before last...I checked it out and was thoroughly blown away. I knew I had to have one the first time I used it.

 

Most guys are quite loyal to whatever sonar they own and feel it's the best. The LX-5 is the only model that I hear non-owners (who've used one) admit is likely the as good or better than any other...even whatever they own. I have a feeling you'll not regret your "side-grade".

 

I'm so pumped to try it out that I don't think I can wait for the ice. I'm going to go to my friend's marina on the French and set it up on his dock and jig with an ice rod. There are sometimes crappie there.

[Tybo]

Great solve on the problem,But not to keen on the way you bolted throw the plastic.

You have taken away the flex points and made them hard point.You need to cover more area around the nuts.

eg: If you drop it you could drive the unit threw the base.

Large flat washer and a plastic flat washer for shock absorbent.

Need to get the ny-loks threw farther.Once the cold gets to them,they will come loss.

[ah_long]

Great solve on the problem,But not to keen on the way you bolted throw the plastic.

You have taken away the flex points and made them hard point.You need to cover more area around the nuts.

eg: If you drop it you could drive the unit threw the base.

Large flat washer and a plastic flat washer for shock absorbent.

Need to get the ny-loks threw farther.Once the cold gets to them,they will come loss.

 

thanks for the heads up, I'll take your advice and see how I can improve on it..

 

what I really want to do is to use the stock hardware to mount the bracket and rather than raising the entire bracket, just raise the head unit

[misfish]

Great solve on the problem,But not to keen on the way you bolted throw the plastic.

You have taken away the flex points and made them hard point.You need to cover more area around the nuts.

eg: If you drop it you could drive the unit threw the base.

Large flat washer and a plastic flat washer for shock absorbent.

Need to get the ny-loks threw farther.Once the cold gets to them,they will come loss.

 

 

What Paul said is correct.Your dealing with plastic and cold weather.

 

If I may add to his suggestions,get yourself some thin rubber sheet ,and cut the same size as the washers.Place them in between the washers. It will help

[Tybo]

What I would do,would be to use aluminum round stock for risers cut too length and drill and tap.Using stainless machine screw and washers

for fastening.And just a touch of thread lock.

[misfish]

I have some rubber threaded mounts here.I can send them to you, if you think that would work.We use them to mount sensitive computer stuff to the press,s that thump all day.Looks like 1/4 inch would work for you.

[aplumma]

Since it is out there already get a toilet tank "Tank to bowl bolt set" it comes with the flat washers, rubber washers, bolts and nuts ready to go. Just cut the bolts off at the length you want. You can find this at Home Depot or any local plumbing section.

 

 

Art

[ah_long]

should've consulted you guys first.... lol

 

but while you guys are giving me ideas, I went to the basement and tried to find something that could spread the weight in the event of a shock/drop and I found two small steel plates

 

I drilled a hole in it and now it's washer -> steel plate -> plastic -> locking nut

 

this also reduced the overall height by around 0.2" so the screw went thru the ny-lock

 

now tell me whether this would do...

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 17, 2011 by ah_long

[misfish]

 

 

 

In this pic,I can see where those rubber mounts I am offering up,

 

would be so much better then that ridged fix you have there.

[Sinker]

I would put washers on the nylock side as well.

 

I'm sure it will be fine regardless. The plastic used in that unit should be able to withstand some cold weather, no?

 

I would have left it stock myself.

 

S.

[BillM]

I'd put some washers on the bottom nuts, that's where you'll have your issues. Also it's not like you'll be swinging the thing around from the top, lol. I'm sure it will be fine.

[fishnsled]

I can't believe that you have to do any mods like that to a new unit. Poor design on their part, imo. Not a huge issue but just enough to piss the consumer off. As for the missing battery indicator, just another way the manufactures are looking to save a buck. All about the bottom line.

 

Looking forward to the first ice report and hope the unit is the bomb. Thanks for the heads up.

[ah_long]

the unit never came with washer on the nut for the ny-lock side in stock form so I figured it's not needed since all the force is exerted from the top, but given the suggestions from you guys and it's only $.20ea, I'll grab some and put it on to be on the safe side