Outboard stalling, help

[Millhouse2020]

Hi Everyone,

 

I have a question relating to outboards. I got my first rig this year, used, it has a 60hp Evinrude Etec tiller. Lately, the engine has been giving me problems stalling at idle, yesterday I took my g/f fishing on lake Huron for rainbows and it must have stalled a dozen times, not fun on big water.

 

I thought the problem was old gas, the former owner sold me the boat with about 10 gallons of gas in it. I made sure to run it dry and fill it will high grade shell fuel, hoping it would clean out the system of any old fuel builed up etc. The problem has only got worse and Im not sure what to do at this point. I do a lot of trolling and need the engine to run reliably at idle. Im kinda stumped, short of taking it in for servicing I dont know what else to do.

 

Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks in advance to everyone!

 

Millhouse

[ecmilley]

the direct injection systems used on the newer two strokes can be quite complicated, while the problem may be a simple as carbon build, i would suggest you get it to a brp dealer for a check up, unless you have access to the scan tool and software the couple ghrs labour and price of parts will be cheaper than a new power head

[DRIFTER_016]

Could also be something as simple as dirty spark plugs as well especially if you do a lot of trolling.

First thing I would do is put in a new set and see how it runs.

Edited August 15, 2011 by DRIFTER_016

[irishfield]

Etech's were designed to get up and go.. no?.. not so sure about a lot of slow trolling. Notorious for eating spark plugs I'm told though.

[Bernie]

Stop by a BRP dealer and pick up some "Carbon Guard". Use as directed.

This will often cure your issue.

I use it once a year.

[Millhouse2020]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the tips! I am going to pick up some new plugs and the carbon guard this week for the local dealer.

 

Does anyone have experience in getting ETec's or similar outboards serviced by a technician? In reviewing BRP's info, they recommend getting the motor serviced every 3 season essentially. I am just wondering what a service would involved for an outboard, what I should expect to pay, and ultimately is it worth it? I was going to look into it at the end of the season but figure I will ask here just the same to see what members experience is.

 

Thanks again!

 

Millhouse

 

ps - I am enjoying the purchase overall and now with a comfortable rig to fish out of, my g/f actually asks to go fishing, can't ask for more...

[TennesseeGuy]

Millhouse, having an OB motor that stalls can be a blessing when taking Girlfriend out on the water. Use it to your advantage.

[DRIFTER_016]

Millhouse, having an OB motor that stalls can be a blessing when taking Girlfriend out on the water. Use it to your advantage.

 

And it can be a nightmare when you're trying to out run a Class V

Kill Storm!!!!

[Dutch]

Your problem wil most likely be something related to the fuel injection system.

 

Did you not have it out on the water or have a mechanic look at it beore you bought it?

[beagle dad]

tehe check the venting to gas take ..my bet its not venting..

runs no air to replace gas used. will show up especially at idle

take the cap off the tank and try it

 

GOOD LUCK

[Bernie]

Not likely a venting issue at an idle. Venting issues usually show up at open throttle due to a lack of fuel.

There really isn't too much to servicing them.

Replace the fuel filter, lower unit oil(yearly), and a water pump(water pump every three or 4 years).

Make sure you operate the fogging option when you put it away for the winter and add some fuel stabilizer. This is really important in these engines as there is a small amount of fuel that stays in the injection system all the time. Unstabilized fuel can leave some really ugly deposits.

I don't run mine slow too often but also avoid full throttle as well. Every once in a while I open it up to keep things cleaned out.

Edited August 15, 2011 by Bernie

[danc]

A friend of mine knows a serious tournament fisherman from Kenora that bought an E Tec from Florida. It has run like crap ever since he bought it and has most likely cost him some tourney winnings. It was still under warranty but the folks at Evinrude have no answers. Last I heard was that it might be an altitude issue? My last Evinrude was a '92 40 horse oil injected. Nothing but problems that the dealer couldn't diagnose, let alone fix. Personally, I'm done with them.

[Millhouse2020]

I did test the motor before I bought, but only in the yard with a hose and muffs attached. It ran fine and started easily. I was not able to take it out on the water and I did not have a technician look at it. I travelled to Thunder Bay to view it since it was the only used model I was able to find for sale.

 

I am comfortable doing simple stuff myself, oil, plugs, filter changes. Anything else I would probably be better off to have an expert do. Its a lot more advanced than the 1980 9.9 Johnson I used to run for years.

 

I know the engine has a winterizing function. I have the instructions on how to run it and will do so at the end of the season and will make sure to have stabilizer in the fuel beforehand.

 

I need to run out and get the carbon guard some time this week after work and will check the plugs to see if they need replacing. The engine is a 2006 and for all I know they are the original plugs...

 

Millhouse

[bigbuck]

It's due for plugs. Run that Carbonguard through it and don't troll when you are trying to clean out the engine!!! Let it breathe.......

[lookinforwalleye]

Gee I thought E`tec`s were perfect the Opti Max owner says!

 

Sorry couldn`t resist!!!

[Toccobender]

I was having the same problem on my 2001 yamaha 130 two-stroke, it was the vent on the fule tank. It got so bad it was sucking the primer ball by the motor in on it's self.

[Roe Bag]

I was having the same problem on my 2001 yamaha 130 two-stroke, it was the vent on the fule tank. It got so bad it was sucking the primer ball by the motor in on it's self.

It can go the other way too. If you have an air leak between the pickup and the fuel pump, it will gradually lose it's prime. Particularly at low rpm. I had a 9.9 Mercury that had a metal gas tank. The fuel pickup was an aluminium tube that screwed into the bottom of the fuel guage/hose attachment. Overtime it had vibrated loose. Just enough to allow air into the system. At high speed it was fine but when trolling it would stall every few minutes. It became apparent because I would have to prime it to get it to restart.

Another possibility is condensation in the tank. I read where you ran it out of gas and refuelled with premium.

Try adding some methyl hydrate. (lock de-icer but much cheaper) You can buy it at just about any hardware store or CTC in their paint department. It will evaporate off any moisture in the tank, fuel filter etc.

Had a buddy that had a 175 Mercury. The dealer replaced three ignition modules before they finally discovered it was water in his built in tank. After the modules were replaced it would run fine at the shop but as soon as my buddy trailered it out to the lake the same problem returned. Apparently there were a lot of problems with the ignition modules in that particular model, so the dealer just assumed.

Being heavier than gas it settles on the bottom of the tank. Usually below the pickup depth. If the boat sits on the trailer at an angle it will settle in the tank accordingly. Trailer the boat or run it on the lake and it gets stirred up. The fuel will look cloudy. Depending on the concentration, the boat may run fine at mid to high speed but will spit, sputter and stall at trolling speeds.

Stir it up well and put some in a clear jar. Let it settle. The water will seperate a become very visible in the bottom of the jar.

Hope this helps.

Edited August 18, 2011 by Roe Bag