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All these questions about bearings and packing


misfish

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#1, wear a pair of latex or similar gloves, hand sweat contains salt and that's real good for bearings right from the get go.

#2, use the right kind of grease, I use the Amsoil brand of low wash out grease, similar what's used on snowmobile bearings.

#3, make sure your work surface is clean, eatable clean, no point is setting new clean bearings on a dirty gritty surface.

#4, with a plop of grease in the palm of one hand introduce grease into the inner and outer halves of the bearing by sort of sweeping the bearing into the palm full of grease.

#5, place the rear bearing into the race and add the rear seal. Then do the front bearing, place the hub on the axle and add the bearing, (thrust washer if needed) castle nut and proceed to tighten the nut to mfgrs specs. Insert a new proper sized cotter pin and secure. Add a wee bit of grease around the dust cap and replace it squarely. Done.

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#1, wear a pair of latex or similar gloves, hand sweat contains salt and that's real good for bearings right from the get go.

#2, use the right kind of grease, I use the Amsoil brand of low wash out grease, similar what's used on snowmobile bearings.

#3, make sure your work surface is clean, eatable clean, no point is setting new clean bearings on a dirty gritty surface.

#4, with a plop of grease in the palm of one hand introduce grease into the inner and outer halves of the bearing by sort of sweeping the bearing into the palm full of grease.

#5, place the rear bearing into the race and add the rear seal. Then do the front bearing, place the hub on the axle and add the bearing, (thrust washer if needed) castle nut and proceed to tighten the nut to mfgrs specs. Insert a new proper sized cotter pin and secure. Add a wee bit of grease around the dust cap and replace it squarely. Done.

 

Enough said, right here, right now :worthy::worthy::worthy:

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#1, wear a pair of latex or similar gloves, hand sweat contains salt and that's real good for bearings right from the get go.

#2, use the right kind of grease, I use the Amsoil brand of low wash out grease, similar what's used on snowmobile bearings.

#3, make sure your work surface is clean, eatable clean, no point is setting new clean bearings on a dirty gritty surface.

#4, with a plop of grease in the palm of one hand introduce grease into the inner and outer halves of the bearing by sort of sweeping the bearing into the palm full of grease.

#5, place the rear bearing into the race and add the rear seal. Then do the front bearing, place the hub on the axle and add the bearing, (thrust washer if needed) castle nut and proceed to tighten the nut to mfgrs specs. Insert a new proper sized cotter pin and secure. Add a wee bit of grease around the dust cap and replace it squarely. Done.

 

Close enough Erich,why did I know you would know.

 

Yea,never put a bearing in without putting a good gulp of grease in yer palm and push it in.You just dont rub the bearing,you got to turn it in yer palm,pushing the grease in..Work it in. Now you have a greased bearing, that will be good to go once you pack it. :clapping:

Edited by Misfish
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Also fill the hub of wheel with grease before placing bearings and installing on axle.

Filling the hub is one of last things I would do, you see the bearings warm up a little while rolling and it allows the grease to warm and flow in there. You fill the hub, the grease doesn't get warmed up, and although your hub may e full, you're starving the bearings of lubrication. That's why I got rid of my BB's.

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This is real good one

 

 

Pretty much how I do mine,no gasoline here though ,and, like I said,palm pack my bearings before installing and packing the hub..

 

Nice vid Kyle.TFS :thumbsup_anim:

Edited by Misfish
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Filling the hub is one of last things I would do, you see the bearings warm up a little while rolling and it allows the grease to warm and flow in there. You fill the hub, the grease doesn't get warmed up, and although your hub may e full, you're starving the bearings of lubrication. That's why I got rid of my BB's.

 

Must respectfully disagree. Have had no 'flow' problems on both my trailers -boat/snowmobile- with the authentic S.S. Bearing Buddies as positive pressure forces grease into them. Have been dis-assembling wheels every two years for observation and using the same bearings for about 10 years with no visible damage.

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