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Bow mount 12 V trolling motor help


baironhorse

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Hi

Im installing an older bow mount 36 lb 12v motor guide trolling motor. I want to know where I could get wiring so I can feed thru boat to battery at stearn. Or atleast what guage wiring should I use. Also need to know if I should be running a fuse and at which post should I run off (pos or neg)...Basically looking for complete set up- how to install properly. Can you more experience people help me. Thanks

Edited by Ironhorse
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I would recommend 6ga wire at the minimum and a 40A circuit breaker on the + wire as close to the battery as possible. Solder connections and use heatshrink tubing and/or quality tape.

 

I bought some conduit from Home Depot and ran mine under the floor on my boat.

 

Any more ? let us know.

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Thanks Scougog....Where could i get a 40A circuit breaker? Bass pro, Lebarons, HD,, CTC??..is there a particular one you would use? if so where to get it? Also to clarify heatshrink at connection point only right? or entire run?..what about if I used quality marrets and wrapped tight with tape?

 

 

quote name='scugog' date='28 August 2010 - 04:02 PM' timestamp='1283025767' post='499364']

I would recommend 6ga wire at the minimum and a 40A circuit breaker on the + wire as close to the battery as possible. Solder connections and use heatshrink tubing and/or quality tape.

 

I bought some conduit from Home Depot and ran mine under the floor on my boat.

 

Any more ? let us know.

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Thanks Scougog....Where could i get a 40A circuit breaker? Bass pro, Lebarons, HD,, CTC??..is there a particular one you would use? if so where to get it? Also to clarify heatshrink at connection point only right? or entire run?..what about if I used quality marrets and wrapped tight with tape?

 

 

Assuming you can put the breaker somewhere where it won't get wet, you could use one of these available at NAPA813010ST.jpg

 

Marrets won't work. If you can't solder them up you need to get butt connectors and crimp them real tight. You only need to use heatshrink on the connection points and overtop of any butt connections and the ring connectors etc.

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When I bought my boat it had the trolling motor battery positioned under the front deck, the live well was also up front. A package boat and as such under powered with a 35HP motor on a boat rated for 60HP. With the live well full it had trouble reaching a plane.

 

I moved the battery to the back of the boat, used 6 ga wire that I got from a customer, unusual wire the insulation was double thick, no idea what it is called. Anywhere it made contact with the hull I cut a piece of garden hose and slid it over the wire. For ease of connecting I used Anderson quick connects front and rear. Just a plug in connection that made it simple to switch batteries, or jump the starting motor battery if ever needed.

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When I bought my boat it had the trolling motor battery positioned under the front deck, the live well was also up front. A package boat and as such under powered with a 35HP motor on a boat rated for 60HP. With the live well full it had trouble reaching a plane.

 

I moved the battery to the back of the boat, used 6 ga wire that I got from a customer, unusual wire the insulation was double thick, no idea what it is called. Anywhere it made contact with the hull I cut a piece of garden hose and slid it over the wire. For ease of connecting I used Anderson quick connects front and rear. Just a plug in connection that made it simple to switch batteries, or jump the starting motor battery if ever needed.

 

Those quick-connects are pretty cool. Where can you buy them?

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Some electrical supply stores sell them, in my case Midland Electric in Solon Ohio. I believe there are places to by them on line also. I used 50 amp ones, smaller than a zippo lighter, they make 3 sizes or more? a common connector on electric pallet jacks and fork lifts. A fork lift parts supplier may carry them also? Just an easy way to make a connection, even in the dark, they only fit together one way. More secure than some of the marine plug ins for electric motors, constant spring pressure on the contacts.

 

http://www.andersonpower.com/products/multipole-sb.html

Edited by OhioFisherman
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Ok so any 40 Am circuit breaker will do?? Ok go to Napa....now assuming the area is not dry...is there a closed unit a can get? also on the pic you provided does th 6guage wire loop around the nut??? once connected to breaker do I shrink wrap entire assembly?? Sorry If Im asking stupid questions... you need you guys to hold my hand on this one and give me a complete walk thru..want do it right....this to me is a huge upgrade as I am currently using a 1975 Shakespears wonder troll 26lb transdome mount with aligator clips!! really ole school!

thanks guys

 

Assuming you can put the breaker somewhere where it won't get wet, you could use one of these available at NAPA813010ST.jpg

 

Marrets won't work. If you can't solder them up you need to get butt connectors and crimp them real tight. You only need to use heatshrink on the connection points and overtop of any butt connections and the ring connectors etc.

Edited by Ironhorse
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Ok so any 40 Am circuit breaker will do?? Ok go to Napa....now assuming the area is not dry...is there a closed unit a can get? also on the pic you provided does th 6guage wire loop around the nut??? once connected to breaker do I shrink wrap entire assembly?? Sorry If Im asking stupid questions... you need you guys to hold my hand on this one and give me a complete walk thru..want do it right....this to me is a huge upgrade as I am currently using a 1975 Shakespears wonder troll 26lb transdome mount with aligator clips!! really ole school!

thanks guys

 

Get a battery box and put the breaker inside it with the battery. Needs to be a 12V 40amp. I believe some of the 24V ones will work with 12V also but you would need to confirm. Either that or fork out the $60 for a MinnKota waterproof breaker. I believe the NAPA one is around $12.

 

Do not wrap any wires around the nut. Make sure to use ring terminals on the breaker. See the attached pic. You want to put heatshrink where the blue is on that ring terminal. Always a good idea to wrap the breaker with tape afterwards. That one is just temporary running some accessories.

 

Important - when at NAPA make sure it has a tiny button on the side. Manual reset is what you want.

 

If you were in London area I'd gladly drop by to give you some pointers.

Edited by scugog
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If you have any of the high end stereo shops that put in those obnoxious auto radio systems they will have all of the electrical parts in stock for you.

They do make a bladed one time fuse that works well and might be easily available (carry a spare just in case.

 

 

Art

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Ok I made up this primitive but to the point mapping..can you review it and let me know if I missed anything! thanks so much guys for your help so far! ALso for mounting motor on bow what hardware do you suggest? and should I mount on a 1/2" ply wood plate ontop of boat deck?

 

 

Get a battery box and put the breaker inside it with the battery. Needs to be a 12V 40amp. I believe some of the 24V ones will work with 12V also but you would need to confirm. Either that or fork out the $60 for a MinnKota waterproof breaker. I believe the NAPA one is around $12.

 

Do not wrap any wires around the nut. Make sure to use ring terminals on the breaker. See the attached pic. You want to put heatshrink where the blue is on that ring terminal. Always a good idea to wrap the breaker with tape afterwards. That one is just temporary running some accessories.

 

Important - when at NAPA make sure it has a tiny button on the side. Manual reset is what you want.

 

If you were in London area I'd gladly drop by to give you some pointers.

Trolling Motor wirring Map R.JPG

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Ok I made up this primitive but to the point mapping..can you review it and let me know if I missed anything! thanks so much guys for your help so far! ALso for mounting motor on bow what hardware do you suggest? and should I mount on a 1/2" ply wood plate ontop of boat deck?

 

Looks like you are on the right track. You'll need ring connectors to connect to the battery as well.

 

I used 1 1/4'' PVC conduit from Home Depot. I think it was like $7 for a 10ft piece and got a couple of couplers as well.

 

I used aluminum plating on mine and it works awesome. For wood I would think you would want 5/8 or 3/4 inch for a bow mount. Maybe others can chime in.

Edited by scugog
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ah, this thread is perfect. I just installed a 45lbs Motorguide bow mount trolling motor and I need to get a 50amp circuit breaker. Right now I have a 20amp installed in the boat and it kept tripping every time I used the max speed/thrust. Then read in the manual that I needed to use a 50amp breaker. Lesson learned, read the electrical/wiring portion of the manual. Might help prevent an electrical fire too. :wallbash:

 

I'll be heading over to NAPA during my lunch break :)

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ok 3/4 ply it is as I have some stock in garage...also what screws or bolts did you use to mount to bow?.. re: aluminum plate where did you get your plate???....thx scugog ur a great help!

 

 

Looks like you are on the right track. You'll need ring connectors to connect to the battery as well.

 

I used 1 1/4'' PVC conduit from Home Depot. I think it was like $7 for a 10ft piece and got a couple of couplers as well.

 

I used aluminum plating on mine and it works awesome. For wood I would think you would want 5/8 or 3/4 inch for a bow mount. Maybe others can chime in.

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ok 3/4 ply it is as I have some stock in garage...also what screws or bolts did you use to mount to bow?.. re: aluminum plate where did you get your plate???....thx scugog ur a great help!

 

I'd use Stainless screws or nuts/bolts if possible to mount the wood to the boat. Use nuts & bolts to bolt the motor to the wood.

 

If you can drill through the gunwale and bolt it down that'll give you the most secure contact. Coat the ply with a stain and some carpet and you should be rocking.

 

I lucked out and got some scrap from an aluminum place. Not fun to cut but works well. I think I used 3/8 or 1/2 aluminum.

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what size bolts and screws do you suggest?

 

I'd use Stainless screws or nuts/bolts if possible to mount the wood to the boat. Use nuts & bolts to bolt the motor to the wood.

 

If you can drill through the gunwale and bolt it down that'll give you the most secure contact. Coat the ply with a stain and some carpet and you should be rocking.

 

I lucked out and got some scrap from an aluminum place. Not fun to cut but works well. I think I used 3/8 or 1/2 aluminum.

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what size bolts and screws do you suggest?

 

You'll need to take a look at your gunwales and decide what will work best and go from there. Obviously bigger is better don't forget washers if possible and pre-drill the ply prior to fastening or else it may split.

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Scugogs advice is right on the money! i noticed Princess Auto had the breakers in 40 amp and 50 amp for $3.99 each. NAPA ones might be better quality....but something tells me they are all a little on the chincy side! I don't recall if they were manual reset though. Not a big deal. It should never trip anyways if sized correctly.

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Yup went to Princess Auto in Newmarket instead of NAPA this afternoon.

 

They currently have;

 

6-24v 20amp Auto Reset Circuit Breaker

6-24v 30amp Auto Reset Circuit Breaker

6-24v 40amp Auto Reset Circuit Breaker

6-24v 50amp Auto Reset Circuit Breaker

 

Just bought myself a pair of 50amps. They're rated to be used for 6-24v. Unfortunately I didn't see any manual reset ones.

Oh, and they all cost $3.99 each. You can find them in the automotive electrical section.

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Princess auto has 40 amp circuit breakers with auto reset for $3.99...Will this work just the same as manual reset?

 

 

You'll need to take a look at your gunwales and decide what will work best and go from there. Obviously bigger is better don't forget washers if possible and pre-drill the ply prior to fastening or else it may split.

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