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Ideas for fixing up an aluminum boat!


TC1OZ

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Well I traded my junker car for a junker boat!

 

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Any suggestions?

 

I figure I'll just sand it and get some marine paint (maybe do it all green).

 

Any tips?

 

Should I just sand the inside and paint that as well?

 

I'm clearly new to the whole boating world...

 

Anything will help!

 

:thumbsup_anim:

Edited by TC1OZ
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if you're gonna paint, it do it right...

 

prep it right, and use the proper paints...

 

also spray it on...

 

failure to do so will result in a terrible job/paint flaking/chipping off...

 

first check to see if it leaks...

 

if it does, let me know and i can put you intouch with the guy that re-riveted my Legend... great job, great price

 

personally i wouldn't paint it if i were you...

 

you'll be wasting $$ for nothing...

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that is not a junk boat.

it is a dirty boat.

clean it up then paint it.

i re did my mirrocraft 14' and it looks good.

all i did was buy tremclad in the original color and it now looks good.

but you will find most of the guys here will tell you differently.

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seacadets11-09-2008054.jpg

seacadets11-09-2008053.jpg

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that is not a junk boat.

it is a dirty boat.

clean it up then paint it.

i re did my mirrocraft 14' and it looks good.

all i did was buy tremclad in the original color and it now looks good.

but you will find most of the guys here will tell you differently.

 

Thanks for the words of encouragement. There is decent sized patch on the back near the side, but the seller said the leak was patched. I'll be picking it up on Thursday and tossing it in the nearest body of water I can find (hopefully I wont be pulling it off bottom) but for 200$ its worth the risk in my opinion... A trolling motor/battery will probably run me the same.

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i'm in the process of fixing up my little 12' tinny. i pulled out all the wood on the benches and i'm cutting new ones and sealing/carpeting them with new carpet. while the seats are out i will be painting the inside. instead of paint i'm going to use rubberized rocker guard in a beige colour. i'll let you know how it turns out, i should get to painting it this week sometime.

 

ryan

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gas or electric trolling motor?

( he could be using the battery for fishfinder and lights )

which ever way your going

check the classifieds here and then check out kijiji

you dont need new cause used will work and its a cheaper way.

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The question is how much time and money do you want to invest?

 

Looks like a good boat, personally I'd just clean it up and add a sub floor and your good to go. biggrin.gif

 

Knowing myself I'll probably just spray it with a garden hose and take it out with paddles...lol

 

But realistically I wouldn't mind putting about 200$ into it. (as far as painting it/replacing the wood)

 

A floor would be interesting but I'd have no idea how to go about that.. Anyone have a blue print or concept on how to do a subfloor? (not that it would really need one its pretty small)

 

This boat is big enough to get my family to my island in Parry Sound and its the right size for hitting up all of my favorite bass spots. So I figure if it doesn't leak I might as well make it look nice and use it for the next 5-10 years until I get a boat from my moms boyfriend.

 

gas or electric trolling motor?

( he could be using the battery for fishfinder and lights )

which ever way your going

check the classifieds here and then check out kijiji

you dont need new cause used will work and its a cheaper way.

 

I think electric would be easier and I could add things like a fish finder/lights when the money allows for it. First things first will be to get the emergency paddle and the rest of the devices needed to make sure I'm legal for a stop on the water.

 

But since I don't plan on registering it/getting a big motor I only need to have the safety requirements and I have my boaters card.

 

As for going used with the trolling motor. I spent a good amount of time looking on here and kijiji this summer and people wanted almost as much as new for the trolling motor. I found a 25 Lbs thrust at CTC for $140ish and I figure new with warranty is better than used with none for the same price..

 

But that probably won't be for a few months.

Edited by TC1OZ
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A few re-bucked rivets and you're good to go... and don't you dare touch that aluminum with sand paper....

 

Its things like this I want to know..

 

What do I sand it with? I would of just tossed sand paper on my hand sander lol.

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i would just pressure wash it , (if you dont have one go to your local coin wash )

sand the seats smooth or recover to avoid slivers if your gonna have the little one in there

like mentioned painting the inside is just a waste its gonna look the same as it does now in a month

other than that i would just use it if it doesnt leak , or if it does use that money to fix the leaks

 

 

if you were planing on putting a motor on it i would replace the transom wood

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I fixed up this old 12 ft to leave at a remote lake 2 yrs ago,the paint was peeling badly & I used a soft brass wire wheel to remove it.The boat was a chronic leaker so before I painted it I sprayed all the seams with rubberized rocker guard.I used camo paint from CTC.After 2 seasons use it still doesn't leak.Picture124.jpg

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i would just pressure wash it , (if you dont have one go to your local coin wash )

sand the seats smooth or recover to avoid slivers if your gonna have the little one in there

like mentioned painting the inside is just a waste its gonna look the same as it does now in a month

other than that i would just use it if it doesnt leak , or if it does use that money to fix the leaks

 

 

if you were planing on putting a motor on it i would replace the transom wood

 

 

Sounds like solid advice! I just need to get the boat in my hands to measure the wood. I should be able to get that replaced free of charge. My father in law is re-doing the wood in his 14' Lund and this man spares no expense lol.

 

 

 

I fixed up this old 12 ft to leave at a remote lake 2 yrs ago,the paint was peeling badly & I used a soft brass wire wheel to remove it.The boat was a chronic leaker so before I painted it I sprayed all the seams with rubberized rocker guard.I used camo paint from CTC.After 2 seasons use it still doesn't leak.Picture124.jpg

 

 

I love it! This is exactly what I want to do with my boat.

Edited by TC1OZ
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I fixed up this old 12 ft to leave at a remote lake 2 yrs ago,the paint was peeling badly & I used a soft brass wire wheel to remove it.The boat was a chronic leaker so before I painted it I sprayed all the seams with rubberized rocker guard.I used camo paint from CTC.After 2 seasons use it still doesn't leak.Picture124.jpg

 

 

Rubberized rocker guard?

 

Where do i buy that from and how easy is it to apply? Does it go on the inside or the outside of the boat?

 

(I have a Sportspal canoe that has a few leaks in it, but I can't see myself taking out all the interior foam lining to re-rivet the seems.)

 

This rocker-guard might be the answer for me IF it goes on the outside.

 

I am open to other suggestions as well.

 

Thanks

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Splashhopper.. if you want to fix the leaks in your sportspal.. go pick up a tube of Sikaflex 1A (local United Rental sells it) and you can get it in various colours. Sand, aluminum, limestone etc. Or go into a marine supply and get a tube of Sikaflex 591 (white or black are your choices). Scrub the suspect area with brown scotchbrite, clean it with acetone, let that evaporate and then apply the Sikaflex. Should be no need to pull up the interior foam.

 

TC.. if you do go at the aluminum with sandpaper.. be absolutely certain that it is aluminum oxide paper! Personally, like I said, I'd check that thing for leaks... re set any loose weeping rivets and use it as is with the exception of at least cleaning up or replacing the wood. If you want to paint it.. strip it with TAL STRIP II or have it soda blasted. Then self etching epoxy primer for aluminum and top coat.

Edited by irishfield
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Splashhopper.. if you want to fix the leaks in your sportspal.. go pick up a tube of Sikaflex 1A (local United Rental sells it) and you can get it in various colours. Sand, aluminum, limestone etc. Or go into a marine supply and get a tube of Sikaflex 591 (white or black are your choices). Scrub the suspect area with brown scotchbrite, clean it with acetone, let that evaporate and then apply the Sikaflex. Should be no need to pull up the interior foam.

 

 

Thanks Irishfield. Now if I can just remember what colour my canoe is, it's been so lonnnnng :tease:

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Ok im going to chime in here in an effort on not starting another thread.The rocker gaurd would go outside I imagine. But back the wood floor..How do we do this cause im doing the same to a 14.5 springbok. Pickedup a minn kota powerdrive v2 and a humminbird 550 fish finder.I want to carpet and put a wood floor in the boat.Any ideas on how to do the floor? The lower the better as this is a shallow boat to begin with..Keep in ming we have to go light too. Thanks

Edited by tb4me
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Ok im going to chime in here in an effort on not starting another thread.The rocker gaurd would go outside I imagine. But back the wood floor..How do we do this cause im doing the same to a 14.5 springbok. Pickedup a minn kota powerdrive v2 and a humminbird 550 fish finder.I want to carpet and put a wood floor in the boat.Any ideas on how to do the floor? The lower the better as this is a shallow boat to begin with..Keep in ming we have to go light too. Thanks

 

Cut 3 or 4 strips of wood to bring the floor level above the ribs (they will run from stern to seat, seat to seat and seat to bow) the outer two being thinner than the ones closer to the centerline of the boat. When you have the strips cut to the right thickness for the section of the boat you are doing cut out a plywood floor section to go on top of the wood strips. attach the plywood to the strips with galvanized screws (make sure you don't go through the strips). You now have a removable raised floor.

Simple. ;)

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Thanks Drifter.I like the idea of a removable floor.How do they work when the water gets in there from a night rain?Does it get trapped?I would imagine the ribs would carry the water to the back where I have installed a small builge pump..This is an exellent thread..Want to give thanks to the OP for it.Its better to have it all in one thread..Id like to see some more pice of peoples aluminum boat setups.Thats if thier willing to share? I have all the gear and a butt nakid boat sittin on the dock at the Trent as we speak.

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I'm loving all the ideas I'm getting from people. This will be a job on the budget so anything that sounds too expensive is probably not going to get done.

 

But I have some marine plywood for free, so replacing the wood won't be an issue.

 

And I've had many suggestions on painting it. We'll see what happens when I get 'er in my possession.

 

Anyone have a suggestion on wheres the easiest place to drop it in around St. Catharines? I won't be using a trailer... Putting it on the roof and strapping it down... I guess I could just loosen the straps and slam my breaks at the bottom of the ramp... lol.

 

Thank you everyone for your suggestions! :worthy:

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Thanks Drifter.I like the idea of a removable floor.How do they work when the water gets in there from a night rain?Does it get trapped?I would imagine the ribs would carry the water to the back where I have installed a small builge pump..This is an exellent thread..Want to give thanks to the OP for it.Its better to have it all in one thread..Id like to see some more pice of peoples aluminum boat setups.Thats if thier willing to share? I have all the gear and a butt nakid boat sittin on the dock at the Trent as we speak.

 

 

Yes, the water will still run back the same way as without the floor being in there.

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