Power tools (NF)

[Roy]

A few years ago, (3 I think) I bought a Craftsman 18V cordless drill. The drill, the one hour charger and the two power packs were on super special at $79.95 or something of the sort. It's been very handy to have and lately, the power packs just won't charge. Too much usage I guess.

So, I went to Sears (Craftsman) on the weekend to buy two new 18V packs. They didn't have any as they say they are all 19.2V now. I asked where I can get them and they gave me the number to Sears service here. I called this morning...I wanted two packs delivered to me...how much? She says they are $72.95 plus tax plus $6.00 for shipping... EACH! What the hell? The 19.2V power packs are $59 off the shelf at Sears!

Ok so I ordered one instead of two...I guess they want me to buy a new 19.2V cordless.

I read on the net that you can fix them yourself for about $13.... I don't know anything about that. I'm starting to really dislike this 'throw away' society.

Any tips?

[largefish]

I prefer corded drills and power tools instead of battery powered ones. The batteries cannot last 40 min. of use before you have to recharge them. The more you charge them, the faster they will lose their ability to store the charge and you have to replace them. Corded tools don't have such problems and you don't have to stop all your work to wait for the battery to charge. The only thing that is inconvenient is the cord, but don't worry, soon they we will have the ability to wirelessly power tools without using batteries, by transmitting power through the air. You can read the article here, it's a fun read : http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/19098305/

[danbouck]

I wanted 2 new batteries for my 28 volt Milwaukee and they want $240 a piece for them

[Jonny]

Battery-pack stuff lasts me two years at the outside, even good quality stuff. I have very little luck with rechargeables of any kind.

 

The only cordless tool I really need at times is a rechargeable drill, so I buy cheap and when the battery fails, the whole thing goes in the garbage.

[holdfast]

Battery-pack stuff lasts me two years at the outside, even good quality stuff. I have very little luck with rechargeables of any kind.

 

The only cordless tool I really need at times is a rechargeable drill, so I buy cheap and when the battery fails, the whole thing goes in the garbage.

 

Cant get cheaper than XS Cargo

 

http://www.shopxscargo.com/product_catalog...roduct_list.asp

[Greencoachdog]

I'm starting to really dislike this 'throw away' society.

Any tips?

 

 

You may want to get used to it, because it isn't going to get any better!!!

 

 

... you could go back to the old brace and bit method... I'll give you abot 15 minutes on one of those before you're calling up Sears and ordering 3 of those battery packs!

Edited June 22, 2009 by GCD

[Roy]

I still have the old brace and bit and it works fine for me......but when you need to do a simple little thing whether it be at the back of the yard or on a ladder in a cathedral ceiling....the cordless is useful.

[Jonny]

Cant get cheaper than XS Cargo

 

There's the ticket!

 

Buy two or three and use 'em like disposable razors.

[Greencoachdog]

I still have the old brace and bit and it works fine for me......but when you need to do a simple little thing whether it be at the back of the yard or on a ladder in a cathedral ceiling....the cordless is useful.

 

 

If the brace and bit works fine, what's with the cordless drill???... the brace and bit requires no batteries or electricity... just effort!!!

 

... or have you gotten lazy in todays "throw away" society???

[Fisherman]

A few years ago, (3 I think) I bought a Craftsman 18V cordless drill. The drill, the one hour charger and the two power packs were on super special at $79.95 or something of the sort. It's been very handy to have and lately, the power packs just won't charge. Too much usage I guess.

So, I went to Sears (Craftsman) on the weekend to buy two new 18V packs. They didn't have any as they say they are all 19.2V now. I asked where I can get them and they gave me the number to Sears service here. I called this morning...I wanted two packs delivered to me...how much? She says they are $72.95 plus tax plus $6.00 for shipping... EACH! What the hell? The 19.2V power packs are $59 off the shelf at Sears!

Ok so I ordered one instead of two...I guess they want me to buy a new 19.2V cordless.

I read on the net that you can fix them yourself for about $13.... I don't know anything about that. I'm starting to really dislike this 'throw away' society.

Any tips?

Go to any battery shop, ask them for 15 "1.2 volt Sub "C" batteries with solder tabs, that's all that's in there. 15 x 1.2 volt = 18V. You might also want t take your battery pack to Rona or Home Depot, they have a pretty big offering, maybe one of those will actually fir your Sears model. Also the Rigid brand has a lifetime warranty, even on the batteries if I'm not mistaken.

[IndySKS]

I found this on a site, never tried it yet

 

 

 

 

Cordless Power Tool Batteries and other batteries that contain Nickel Cadmium (NiCd) Cells can be

Re-Conditioned to perform as well as new or even better than new. Proper maintenance after the

procedure will insure years of usable life.

 

The First and most common procedure for Re-Conditioning a NiCd cell is by using a Technique

called "VOLTAGE SURGING". Over time the crystals within a NiCd cell begin to combine and get

larger. This causes them to loose capacitance and also break through the inner seals of the cell.

Surging the NiCd cell using a higher voltage causes the crystals within the NiCd cell to shatter and

become smaller. These smaller crystals have a greater surface area and therefore contain a greater

capacitance for energy. Crystals primarily grow larger during "OVER CHARGING". Over Charging

is the enemy of a NiCd Cells so Remember to leave your batteries on the charger for only the

minimum charging time OR LESS! This is usually an hour or less for Rapid Chargers or 2 to 4 hrs

for standard chargers. It is also best to only charge your batteries immediately before you use them.

Storing your batteries with a full charge encourages crystal growth. Storing your batteries on a low

charge , but not dead, is best. To keep crystal growth under control, you must also perform the

surge process below once every 3 months to keep you NiCd battery at its peak. Follow these

maintenance techniques to insure years of dependable use.

 

 

The "VOLTAGE SURGING" Technique below may be repeated until the battery holds a dependable

charge but wait at least 15 minutes between "SURGING" to allow for the vapors within the cell to

cool. Surging the battery without waiting will result in the cell EXPLODING! Most batteries will only

require one or two "VOLTAGE SURGES" but extremely damaged cells may take up to 20 surges.

 

For batteries up to 9.6 volts you will want to run two wires from a good 12 volt battery, such as a car

battery or two 6 volt lantern batteries run in series. use like size cells and not a combination. Clamp

the ground wire from the car battery to the negative side of the tool battery. Small alligator clamps

work good for this application. The positive terminal on the tool battery is usually golden in color

and the negative is usually silver in color. Use a voltage meter to be sure. One end of the positive

wire should be rigidly attached to the car battery and the other end of the positive wire should be

stripped at the end. Then simply tap the stripped end of the positive wire against the positive

terminal on the tool battery for about 10 seconds tapping rapidly at a rate of 2 to 3 times per second.

See charts below for exact recommended "SURGE TIME" for your battery pack size and your

specific power source voltage. Check the voltage of the tool battery with a voltage tester and if it

does not give a voltage equal to or slightly higher than the tool batteries rated voltage, then repeat

these steps for a few more seconds until it does (waiting 15 minutes between surges). See Fig. A.

For batteries of 9.7 volts to 19.9 volts you will need at least 24 volts. Four 6 volt lantern batteries

run in series also works. It is also possible to use other tool batteries wired together in series as a

power source, but if you are using two 18 volt tool batteries in series you will generate 36 volts and

10 seconds will be to long. Shorten re-conditioning process to 6 or 7 seconds. You can also use

2-18 volt tool batteries in series for re-conditioning 24 volt tool batteries. Using other DC power

sources such as welders and battery chargers can also be used for the "VOLTAGE SURGING" but

small transformers won't work because they don't deliver enough amps. Use lamp cord thickness

wire or larger and always use safety goggles!

 

NOTE: Wiring batteries together in series sounds dangerous because directly connecting a positive to a negative usually is. In the case of DC batteries, this is not true. Connecting the positive of one battery to the negative actually increases voltage (see fig..

There is no risk of explosion when properly connected. This principle can be seen in flashlights where the batteries are also ran in series where the positive of one battery is butted to the negative of the next

battery.

 

 

 

 

 

Use the tables below to determine proper "SURGE TIME" for your particular battery size and power

source. For example; If you have an 18v battery pack and a 36v power source (3 car batteries in series)

then you would surge the battery for 6 seconds (see table E). If you only have 2 car batteries in series

then the recommended surge tapping time would increase and be 10 seconds (see table F).

 

Note; If your battery has more than two terminals you only need to surge ANY two that

register voltage. Manufactures put an extra set of terminals on to improve connection but

they go to the same cells. Be sure to determine polarity (+& - ) because the surge process will not work if performed backwards!

 

Table E

 

 

 

TABLE F

 

 

 

TABLE G

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS

 

1.) Using a voltage tester, determine the polarity of your battery (junk. & neg.)

 

2.) Use Tables E, F & G to determine the "Surge Time" for your particular battery size and power source.

 

3.) 'TapZap' your battery for the suggested time and allow to cool for 15 minutes. Then place on charger for 15 minutes. It may work again.

 

4.) After a short charging let the battery sit. After sitting 1hour check the voltage to see if it is slowly draining. A slow drain will indicate a short.

 

5.) If battery fails to charge, or hold a charge then repeat steps 3 & 4. This process can be repeated up to 25 times.

 

 

The previous Re-Conditioning method will work 90% of the time but occasionally a battery will still not retain its rated voltage. For those of you who are mechanically inclined, there is another option. Remove the battery cell cluster as shown in Fig. C. Test each individual cell for voltage with a voltage

tester. If an individual cell fails to register at least one volt, that particular cell will need to be Re-Conditioned. There may be a fibrous insulator on top and/or bottom of the cells that will need to be drilled to reach the individual cells, but do not drill into the battery cells themselves! NOTE: Each cell will

have to be tested for Polarity (+ or -), the cells are rotated so the positive end of the cell on some will be facing up and others will be facing down. Once you locate the bad cell(s) use a 12 volt car battery to Re-Condition the individual cell by holding the Negative wire to the Negative side of the cell and then hold

the Positive wire to the Positive side of the cell for 2 to 3 seconds, but no longer. Repeat this process for each cell that doesn't register at least on volt.

This process will work on 18v and 24v batteries as well as lower voltages because the individual cells are the same.

 

 

 

 

 

VersaPak Batteries

 

VersaPak batteries have three 1.2 volt cells inside of them so they should register 3.6 volts. If they are bad they will typically register 0, 1.2 or 2.4 volts. The VersaPak batteries are very simple to Re-Condition.

Simply hold the negative wire from the battery to the outside housing of the battery which is its ground. Then Rapidly Tap the Positive wire to the inside of the battery for 3 seconds but no more. Repeat after 15 minutes in necessary. Its that Easy!

 

 

 

Another Method for Re-conditioning NiCd cells that is still in development is the Freeze Technique.

We are finding that some batteries that do not respond to the surging technique respond to the Freeze

Technique. This is a simple procedure. All you have to do is freeze your battery pack in the freezer for

1 hour and then rapidly tap the bottom of the battery pack with something like the but end of a

screwdriver for about a minute. The freezing of the internal crystals makes them more fragile and the

vibration physically breaks them apart. This is hard on the cells and should only be performed after

the surge process has failed. After you have tapped on the battery pack immediately place the battery

back in your tool and turn it on. It won't work much because the pack is still frozen but putting a load

on the battery in this condition will encourage the internal crystal structure to break apart, which is

good! Single cell batteries like A,AA,B,C and D batteries have been shown to respond well to this

technique using a hammer and giving the butt end of the battery a good solid hit, but not too hard as

to break the battery housing.

 

If you attempt to surge your batteries 20 times and then freeze your battery 5 times and you are still not

getting your battery to charge then you are either performing the process improperly or your batteries

are just too far gone. One of the most common reasons for failure is improper polarity surging. If you

surge the battery backwards this process will not work.

 

ALWAY WEAR EYE AND BODY PROTECTION. NiCd cells can explode if over surged.

 

This page is for informational purposes only. Use these practices at your own risk. We cannot be held liable

for personal damage or damage done to private property.

[Roy]

Thanks for the info, guys. I appreciate it.

[POLLIWOGG]

My cordless put a bit through my thumb Saturday so it wont be getting new batteries any time soon.

[Greencoachdog]

My cordless put a bit through my thumb Saturday so it wont be getting new batteries any time soon.

 

 

BAD DRILL! BAB BAD DRILL!!!... now go sit in the corner and discharge yourself!!!

[Roy]

Here's an update. Yesterday I begrudgingly ordered that 18V power pack for the drill. With taxes and shipping it came to $89.00...yes, that's for ONE battery. They were sopposed to send it to the nearest Sears counter and I would pick it up next Tuesday.

Well, this morning I received my whackload of weekly fliers so I'm eyeballing those with a coffee in hand. Lo and behold...a Sears flyer. I look through that and find a 19.2V 1.2" drill, two batteries, the 1 hour charger, a light all in a case. Reg. price $239.00 on sale for $119.00. I called the Sears place and cancelled the battery purchase. The kids will pick the new 19.2V drill for me on the weekend while I'm at Lakair.

I guess you could say that I succumbed to the throw away society's little game.

[SlowPoke]

I use Ryobi and have been happy with them. My only gripe is trying to find a bulb for the flashlight.

I especially like the One+ 18v system. They decided on a design and haven't superceded it. My 18v tools/batts from 6+ years ago interchange with todays offerings.

I considered rebuilding some Ryobi batteries but bought new ones instead, 2 for $55.

They're not Rigid, DeWalt, Milwaukie, Makita quality but for homeowners... money well spent.

[holdfast]

CR gave Ryobi a higher rating than the well advertised drills you just mentioned,

[Roy]

I hear ya, Rob.

[danbouck]

I use Ryobi and have been happy with them. My only gripe is trying to find a bulb for the flashlight.

I especially like the One+ 18v system. They decided on a design and haven't superceded it. My 18v tools/batts from 6+ years ago interchange with todays offerings.

I considered rebuilding some Ryobi batteries but bought new ones instead, 2 for $55.

They're not Rigid, DeWalt, Milwaukie, Makita quality but for homeowners... money well spent.

 

 

I agree. I have my big Milwaukee and dewalt drills but for around the house the One+ 18v system is great

[Greencoachdog]

Yes, I have both Makita and Ryobi cordless drill /drivers and there really isn't enough difference to justify the price of the Makita at purchase... nor the cost of the battery packs, 1 Makita battery costs as much as 2 Ryobi's.

 

The Makitas may outlast the Ryobi... but the Ryobi hasn't died yet!

Edited June 23, 2009 by GCD

[POLLIWOGG]

It was the 18 v Ryobi that bit me, bad, bad drill.

 

Drop them all off a roof onto cement, pick up the makita and sweep up the rest. Used my orange 7.2 for 30 years, I think its a collectors item. Dropped one off a barn roof, no damage at all. I would expect all the new drills with the batteries on the end off the handle instead of sliding into the handle will snap in half the first time you drop them, I know the jobmates will.

 

When the cordless drills first came out it made some jobs into real money makers.

[Sinker]

I've tried them all, and for every day use, I buy makita every time. They last, period.

 

Second on my list is Hitachi. They make some quality goods as well.

 

Pay more once, or pay less over and over again. You can't go wrong with quality.

 

 

 

S.

[spooner_jr]

I like the DeWalt stuff. All the new batteries fit the old tools-buy a new tool with the NiCd or lithium batteries and you can use them with everything.

[fishnsled]

I had an old Makita myself and loved it until the batteries dead and couldn't get a replacement for it. Bought a cord drill and it has never let me down. There are time when a cordless would be nice but not worth it for the number I time I use a drill in a year. Sounds like you got a sweet deal Roy.