Lunker777 Posted April 29, 2009 Report Posted April 29, 2009 Just curious what the best type of wood to use for a transom. It needs to be exactly 1" think. I was thinking of getting a piece of Oak ? But heard it rots faster than plywood ? Plywood is cheaper than Oak, so I guess as far as a budget goes, its the right way to do it.... but what will last longer ? Thanks
Nemo Posted April 29, 2009 Report Posted April 29, 2009 Marine plywood only. Regular plywood will delaminate.
Fisherman Posted April 29, 2009 Report Posted April 29, 2009 Unless you can get a part sheet of marine ply I would go with a full 1 inch slab of oak. You may have to find a lumber mill that carries rough cut and have them plane it down to the required thickness. Cut it to fit using the old piece as a template, drill all the holes required and then give it 2-3 good coats of water sealer especially around the holes and end grain. I've done a few for friends and have had no problems of any rot. I have a 1" maple slab 8" wide, 6' long with the downriggers mounted on it, every other year it gets a coat of water sealer, 12 years in the boat and solid as new.
DRIFTER_016 Posted April 29, 2009 Report Posted April 29, 2009 Marine plywood only. Regular plywood will delaminate. Plus one for Marine Plywood. In the Toronto area call Noah's Marine Supplies
JohnF Posted April 29, 2009 Report Posted April 29, 2009 Okay. Here's my stupid question of the day - Is there any reason why a solid piece of plastic type stuff wouldn't work? I'm thinking the same density of material as they use for dasher boards at rinks etc. Is the problem cost, weight or rigidity? JF
MCTFisher9120 Posted April 29, 2009 Report Posted April 29, 2009 I think Marine Plywood is the best bet. I need to replace the wood at the back of my little aluminum boat.
dannyboy Posted April 29, 2009 Report Posted April 29, 2009 Acids from wood like cedar, redwood, and oak can attack metal if they get wet and don't stay sealed, pressure treated lumber will also cause corrosion. If you are not leaving the boat exposed to the elements, standard plywood will be fine if you keep a coat of paint on it. Be sure to check the hardware after the first couple uses to make sure it is still tight. Dan
Gerritt Posted April 29, 2009 Report Posted April 29, 2009 Seeing as how boats built for centuries have used hardwoods (Oak etc..) my vote goes to hardwood. Just seal it and bolt it... G
wallyboss Posted April 29, 2009 Report Posted April 29, 2009 (edited) Okay. Here's my stupid question of the day - Is there any reason why a solid piece of plastic type stuff wouldn't work? I'm thinking the same density of material as they use for dasher boards at rinks etc. Is the problem cost, weight or rigidity? JF I agree contact any Restaurant supplier and get a piece of white plastic that they use for cutting boards. They will have diferent thickness and they cut them to the size oyu want. here is a few pics of my transom now. I even countersunk holes where my motor clamps go in so it will never slide. I will never have to replace that ever again. Edited April 29, 2009 by wallyboss
DRIFTER_016 Posted April 29, 2009 Report Posted April 29, 2009 Okay. Here's my stupid question of the day - Is there any reason why a solid piece of plastic type stuff wouldn't work? I'm thinking the same density of material as they use for dasher boards at rinks etc. Is the problem cost, weight or rigidity? JF John The base board stuff is not very stiff and there would be alot of flex.
Lunker777 Posted April 29, 2009 Author Report Posted April 29, 2009 Well, I just got back from the Lumberyard. I can get a piece of "green" white Oak for approx $30 bucks for the size I need... roughly 48"x12"x1".... It seems a shame, they only sell it in 2" thickness... so they are planing off the rest to get it to an inch !!! What a waste ! They don't sell 1" marine grade ply.... But I can get a sheet of .5" for I think it was $150... I left the sheet in my truck hahah Im thinking I can use the marine grade for the decking and floor... hmm... the price on the oak is good as well ! I think I better pick up that piece of oak, no ?
pike slayer Posted April 29, 2009 Report Posted April 29, 2009 my vote is plywood unless you can get your hands on some of that thick plastic
gdelongchamp Posted April 29, 2009 Report Posted April 29, 2009 I have rebuilt a couple transoms on my skiffs over the years. I always use marine grade plywood with lots of varnish. If the material (wood) is too hard your motor clamps may unknowingly vibrate loose enough that when accelerating quickly from a standing position into a very tight turn a larger outboard (25hp or 30hp) upon very fast accelaration will make your motor pop off the transom and you'll be hanging onto it by the tiller with the throttle on full. Your cable or chain may be properly secured but your motor will take a swim anyway. Believe me, this adds a bit of excitement to your fishing day. I know most of you think something like this never happens but it does. Using the regular plywood the clamps, over time, will settle into the depressions in the wood and prevent this from happening. Checking onccasionaly to insure the motor clamps are tight is advisable. And always have a chain to anchor your motor to the boat as an added precaution. The newer motors have improved clamps and can also be bolted to the transom therefore not requiring the chain.
DRIFTER_016 Posted April 29, 2009 Report Posted April 29, 2009 I have rebuilt a couple transoms on my skiffs over the years. I always use marine grade plywood with lots of varnish. If the material (wood) is too hard your motor clamps may unknowingly vibrate loose enough that when accelerating quickly from a standing position into a very tight turn a larger outboard (25hp or 30hp) upon very fast accelaration will make your motor pop off the transom and you'll be hanging onto it by the tiller with the throttle on full. Your cable or chain may be properly secured but your motor will take a swim anyway. Believe me, this adds a bit of excitement to your fishing day. I know most of you think something like this never happens but it does. Using the regular plywood the clamps, over time, will settle into the depressions in the wood and prevent this from happening. Checking onccasionaly to insure the motor clamps are tight is advisable. And always have a chain to anchor your motor to the boat as an added precaution. The newer motors have improved clamps and can also be bolted to the transom therefore not requiring the chain. A safety chain to the boat is good. Another safety chain hooked to the holes in the end of the clamps of most small outboards will stop them from loosening off. If the clamps have the Tee handle type you can put a small outboard lock on to stop them from backing off. It's just a little more expensive. Outboard Motor Lock
Fisherman Posted April 29, 2009 Report Posted April 29, 2009 (edited) Well, I just got back from the Lumberyard. I can get a piece of "green" white Oak for approx $30 bucks for the size I need... roughly 48"x12"x1".... It seems a shame, they only sell it in 2" thickness... so they are planing off the rest to get it to an inch !!! What a waste ! They don't sell 1" marine grade ply.... But I can get a sheet of .5" for I think it was $150... I left the sheet in my truck hahah Im thinking I can use the marine grade for the decking and floor... hmm... the price on the oak is good as well ! I think I better pick up that piece of oak, no ? Well there ya go, I will guess the price dictates which direction you are going. As for the hardwood not allowing the big transom clamps to hold, once you have the wood in place in the boat, mount the motor(get your mind outa the gutter) and mark where the clamps meet the wood, draw circles around the clamp feet, remove the motor and with either an appropriate sized Forstner bit or if you have a good spade bore, make two 1/8th inch deep depressions in the wood, the clamps won't slide or let the motor move. As for all the votes for marine ply, I'm sure some wouldn't know what it was if a handfull of splinters zapped them in the arse. Edited April 29, 2009 by Fisherman
Lunker777 Posted April 30, 2009 Author Report Posted April 30, 2009 Evening everyone ! Well.... I guess you should always listen to your own advice .... I was taught this by a manager of mine when I first started selling cars.... " When you assume things, you make an out of you and me " hahaha Well I assumed the size, I prefer to use "estimated" the dimentions of the transom board as being 48"x12"x1" .... thats what the price of $30 for the Oak was based on, but really the dimentions are... 51"x8.5"x1" . So now I look like an idiot and I'm kind of worried about the price of the Oak gettin a bit more money, around the price of making the Marine look good aswell. There were some circumstances with cutting the piece of oak to the size I wanted... they were making an exception because it was an even number of feet. So hopefully I can still work something good out with them to get the size I need. So, the good news.... While I was at work today... My grandpa decided to take care of the steel pieces in the boat. He has drilled out all the rivets perfectly, even saved a few to know what size we had to replace with. I thought they would all be mashed by the time they came out ! Way to go Granps !!!!!! I have pics, but its late... and the wife and I need some time together... The boat has taken over my life !!!............................ :thumbsup_anim: I never thought the day would come till I could say that !!! HAHHAHA I love this stuff ! Good night Everyone !
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