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Best method for removing paint ?


Lunker777

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Go to your local "jobber" (NAPA, Carquest, etc) and ask for Mar-Hyde Tal-Strip 2. The 2 is the important part Tal-Strip is for metal etc. Tal-Strip 2 is for aluminum and even has an aircraft on the label. They may have to order it in.. most seem to only keep the Tal-Strip in stock.

 

Key is.. brush it on and DON'T touch it again. It needs to gel over/seal for the chemicals to do their job under the gel.

 

BTW.. it's about $40 to $50 a gallon!

 

416jLLcDteL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

Edited by irishfield
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Wayne that wounds like what I used years ago it was a clear paste or gel almost I guess it had a golden tint to it but it sure did work great. after that the only problem I had with the paint what when I had my boat tied off to another for a few days of floating around a lake in Sudbury it sure did some damage to the rubbing area but the other was like new for the life that I had it.

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pressure wash the loose paint ...scuff the rest with 220 grit sandpaper ...coat with DP 40 Epoxy primer ....then recoat...

 

if its your intention to leave it natural ....soda blast the hull ...

 

By painting over the other stuff... wont that create a problem ? the paint old paint under neath is going to keep flaking right ? so painting over it will make the other stuff not stick as well ?

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if the paint that doesnt come off with the pressure washer by sanding it you will remove all that is going to come ...and score the edges...sealing it with DP 40 will create a new canvass for the top coat ( Imagine bondo feathered on a peice of steel ) the same applies to the old paint

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Lightly sandblast it with very fine grit

 

Then prime it with an appropriate primer for aluminum, then topcoat it with whatever is compatible with the primer. I think carquest or napa or any automotive store could help you out. Stay away from the canadian tire junk.

 

Bryan

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I've used just about every brand in the last 15 years Mike.. and we always come back to Tal Strip 2 to strip airplanes.

 

Ok I got ahold of NAPA and they are looking into the product for me. $47 a gallon ! Will a gallon be enough for a 14" aluminum ?

 

One question I have is, how do you remove it after you have applied it ?

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It should lift using nothing but plastic spatulas// putty knifes. Some might take some minor scubbing with scotchbrite. Read the instructions... absolutely do not play in it once laid down. It needs to gel over and let the reaction do it's thing. Wind will kill you too... so inside if you can.. or some kind of wind break.

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your new paint wont stick using stripper,

 

You serious... :huh:

 

Wonder how the paint stays on them 700 Knot Jets after numerous strips and paints during lease trade outs... or all the rebuilds/repaints we've done here over the last 15 years.

Edited by irishfield
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I repainted my boat about 15 years ago and believe it or not the paint is still attached to the hull!!! :w00t:

Go figure. dunno.gifdunno.gifdunno.gif

 

 

Here is a shot just after it was painted.

 

BroncoBoat.jpg

 

And here is what it looks like now.

 

PilotBoat.jpg

 

The only difference is the tow vehicle and now there are some stone chips and a few rubs and scratches on the boat, but what do you expect after that many years.

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We are talking boats here not planes, planes are not submerged in water, water immersion will kill paint especially when not prepared properly

 

That has nothing to do with using stripper to get the paint off. Aluminum is aluminum once the paint is off. Proper prep has to go into any paint job.... brand of paint, it's primer and it's properties dictate what can stay submerged and what can't... not how you removed the old paint. And BTW... there are airplanes that sit on the water just like boats.... as well as floats do get painted also.

 

How much aluminum do you work with a year Bryan??

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Here is a link to the product prep and primer that I used on my 28ft aluminum boat that sits in a marina 24/7.interlux primer You can also find paint info for any color you want to paint the boat at the same website just go to their home page. The top paint that I used was interlux33 but you don't need such a special paint because your boat does not need antifouling applied since it does not live in water. This primer and paint combo will give you a lifetime of bonding and it will help seal any minor rivet leaks as well.

 

I used a pressure washer on my boat and then garnet sandblaster to finish off the tough spots. If you sand do not burn the rivets with the sander best to use the product Wayne suggested I am sure that he has stripped alot of aluminum during his aircraft restorations. Do you all have a product called Aircraft stripper in the aerosol can??? I use it alot when I am stripping old paint and powdercoating from metal. A little pricey for doing a whole boat but it would be great for spot shooting the areas that did not strip the first time with only a 10 min waiting time.

 

 

Art

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I don't see what the argument is, removing the paint and painting the Aluminum seems to be 2 every different things

and Wayne is the last person I would argue with about all things Aluminum

 

 

 

except maybe Aluminum siding, how much gap do you leave at the ends and between two pieces to allow for expansion and contraction on horizontal 8" siding ....

 

just kidding

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