20HP merc outboard

[Lunker777]

Hey everyone

 

Im going to have my second look at a boat in the area. I mentioned it before, its a 16' steel hull with a 20HP merc on the back. Im thinking I can pick up the package, boat, motor, trailer for about $1600.

I know everyone said that it wasnt enough power, that the boat would be to heavy. But I was thinking about it, and I think that will be plenty of power for what I want to do with it, I know someone with a 19' steel hull, they are runnin a 20HP merc on it and Ive been in it with 2 other guys and it gets on plane. Its going to be used in the same water as the 19 ft boat so I think I will be ok. And the price is right.

 

My question is, on an older 20 HP merc( probably late 80's to early 90's) is there anything I should be looking for in particular ? Such as problem spots or anything like that. Ive heard these motors are pretty well solid motors. Im going to do a quick compression test on it, and he will be firing it up before I hand him the money.

 

As this is my first boat, Any help would be great... thanks !!!

Edited March 25, 2009 by Lunker777

[2 tone z71]

in this case the motor may be the least of your worries,them steel hulls althou look indestructable they Rot and sometimes need exstensive repairs,im not saying this one does but ive had a few and the bow area in them both was getting to be like a speggatti strainer thin and hard to weld ,Patchs or complete bottoms are sometimes the only fix

[Billy Bob]

TAKE IT FOR A RIDE.................. This is the only way you know what you are buying. You wouldn't purchase a car without driving it would you. ANYONE who will not let you take it out is hiding something.

 

Good Luck,

Bob

[The Urban Fisherman]

TAKE IT FOR A RIDE.................. This is the only way you know what you are buying. You wouldn't purchase a car without driving it would you. ANYONE who will not let you take it out is hiding something.

 

Good Luck,

Bob

 

agreed

[Victor]

i can't offer much advice but don't forget to check out the trailer too. That's something I forgot when i bought my boat but luckily there isn't much problems with it.

[GeorgeJ]

$1600 doesn't seem to get you much as far as a boat goes so it sounds pretty good, I like the idea of getting a ride before buying if you can arrange it. Good Luck

[Lunker777]

Well we are going to look at it this weekend, so I'm going to ask if it would be possible to put it in the river... seeing as its the only open water at the moment around us.

 

He did say that the engine ran a little hard last fall for duck hunting season. But that could possibly due to plugs which he hasn't changed either ! He boat the boat from his cousin about a year ago and didn't change anything on it. He did change the lower unit oil at the end of last season, so he says.

 

Is it true that you should alter the mix of your fuel when the weather gets colder ? He also said that could have been the problem ! It was a pretty cold season right... So by the end they were out in about freezing temperatures.

 

If I were to buy it... he offered to take it in to the local dealer and have them go over the motor..... we didn't talk if that would be INCLUDED in the price I offer, or if he plans on raising his asking price because of that.

[GeorgeJ]

I've never heard of changing the fuel oil mix ratio depending on the temperature.

[Sinker]

I've never heard of changing the fuel oil mix ratio depending on the temperature.

 

Ditto.......I run mine in extreme cold, and the last thing I'm going to change is the mix!!

 

Sinker

[Lunker777]

Ditto.......I run mine in extreme cold, and the last thing I'm going to change is the mix!!

 

Sinker

 

Maybe I understood him wrong or something. I do have to say he was pretty vague on the topic. I think If I do a compression test on the motor, would that suffice ? I mean, would that be enough to say the motor is in pretty good condition ? I'm planning on having to do a little tuning on the engine.... plugs, filters, etc.

[Billy Bob]

When it's colder it just takes longer to get to operating temperature. Never change my mix but then again I have a 1985 VRO Johnson that does it for me.

 

TAKE IT FOR A TEST RIDE and see what you are buying. Not only are you checking out the motor but let's make sure that tub isn't leaking vast amount of H2O all over the floor. It's nice to have a livewell but only for the fish.

[Bernie]

Any engine that uses a thermostat (properly working) should run the same temperature internally when fully warmed whether it's -30 or +30.

[ohhenrygsr]

yea buying a used outboard is always stressful. I remember when i bought mine used from a private seller. You can only do so many test out of the water. Thinks i checked for when i bought mine was compression equal on all cylinders, Check the lower unit gear case oil to make sure its not milky or extremely black. Check Prop Shaft play there should be a very small amount of play on the prop in and out no sideways movement and non on the shaft. Check the Skeg and prop itself make sure no damage to both and still has original paint. I would also put a set of ear muffs on and run the motor at neutral, forward and reverse make sure the motor performs without any erratic idling . Rev it up to see if you hear any backfire witch isn't good. Make sure it starts easy, that's pretty much all i can think of

[Lunker777]

yea buying a used outboard is always stressful. I remember when i bought mine used from a private seller. You can only do so many test out of the water. Thinks i checked for when i bought mine was compression equal on all cylinders, Check the lower unit gear case oil to make sure its not milky or extremely black. Check Prop Shaft play there should be a very small amount of play on the prop in and out no sideways movement and non on the shaft. Check the Skeg and prop itself make sure no damage to both and still has original paint. I would also put a set of ear muffs on and run the motor at neutral, forward and reverse make sure the motor performs without any erratic idling . Rev it up to see if you hear any backfire witch isn't good. Make sure it starts easy, that's pretty much all i can think of

 

Thanks so much everyone !!! hahah Those seem like all good things to take with me. The guy said he didn't have a set of earmuffs, so i was thinking about taking some initiative and getting a set myself and taking them with me ! That way there is no reason why we shouldn't be able to try and fire it up.

Edited March 25, 2009 by Lunker777

[irishfield]

in this case the motor may be the least of your worries,them steel hulls althou look indestructable they Rot and sometimes need exstensive repairs,im not saying this one does but ive had a few and the bow area in them both was getting to be like a speggatti strainer thin and hard to weld ,Patchs or complete bottoms are sometimes the only fix

 

Somewhere around here! lol

 

Worse spots are where they get wet and then sit in the air to rust.. nose under the front seat was worst spot on mine. Wide open.

[Bernie]

Unless you really need a steel boat my recommendation is don't bother.

Another thing is a compression test only tells you it has compression. It doesn't tell you if the magneto is worn out, the crankshaft bearings are rusted or the rod bearings have play or so on......

A lot of guys selling an outboard that have no scruples will change the gear lube long before you arrive to check it. Switching gears on an outboard in thin air isn't a good indicator of the gears condition either, there is no load on the prop to make the gears slip. Needs to be in water for a proper test. Pressure testing the lower unit is the best way to check for leaks.

 

Ummm Wayne......I don't see any rivets?

[irishfield]

Ummm Wayne......I don't see any rivets?

 

Yah.. cause it's steel and the stuffs meant to be welded!

[2 tone z71]

Unless you really need a steel boat my recommendation is don't bother.

Another thing is a compression test only tells you it has compression. It doesn't tell you if the magneto is worn out, the crankshaft bearings are rusted or the rod bearings have play or so on......

A lot of guys selling an outboard that have no scruples will change the gear lube long before you arrive to check it. Switching gears on an outboard in thin air isn't a good indicator of the gears condition either, there is no load on the prop to make the gears slip. Needs to be in water for a proper test. Pressure testing the lower unit is the best way to check for leaks.

 

Ummm Wayne......I don't see any rivets?

 

Bernie pretty much said it all right there,and Wayne when the fella wanted my 30 Yamaha I had on ole steelie,I said ya gotta take the boat as well package deal hehe,it needed a new nose as well steel was badly pitted,I bet shes sitting flipped over somewhere on the Manitoulin Iliand

[Bernie]

Steel boats are great for what they were designed for. Wham bam treat me rough. A cord of maple, half a dozen outboards to take to the outpost down the lake, the 100lb propane cylinders for the generator......anyway you get the idea. Not really a good fishing boat.

[boatman]

Like the others have said don't change the mix ratio. The motor shouldn't run "hard". Running on the water is the best test. Running in a barrel or on muffs is second best. Don't buy it until you see and hear it start and run. Lots of things on that motor you can check out, but unless you really know what you are doing its best to have a professional look it over.

 

I've only ever used one steel boat, but I used it a lot. I don't have a problem with them, though, I'd rather have an aluminium. I do remember it giving a nicer ride than the tin boats we used back then. I think 20 hp is too little just the same. However, you can step down a pitch in prop if you have planing problems or get trim tabs.

 

Bernie, nice 1953 25 hp. You have the best pictures.