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A couple of questions about the boat, motor and trailer


motv8tr

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Ok, I had a hitch installed today, last week I bought a great hitch cover..problem, cover is too big for hitch :( Seems the cover I have is for a class III hitch which is 2" and mine is 1 1/4" Can it be modified? I was thinking of getting a 1 1/4" square tubing, and welding it to the back of the cover...I think it's cast Iron but am not sure.

Here is the hitch slot

 

gallery_46_17_58882.jpg

 

The other hitch covers I've seen have a square tube that slides in the hole, just like the hitch.

 

Front of the cover

gallery_46_17_64687.jpg

 

Back part I'm hoping can be modified

gallery_46_17_26351.jpg

 

As for the motor, I haven't had the boat out yet, figures it's going to rain on both my days off :( Oh well hopefully next week. I know that for the winter I should change out the lower end oil, but where to I buy new? Bass Pro? Most places I've been seem to have all their boat stuff put away. Is there anything else I need to do? Can I leave the motor on the boat or should I remove it and bring it inot the garage...not heated. Oh and I have a full tank of gas, if I put stabilizer in it will it be ok in the spring?

 

Last thing, not that I'm planning on doing anything for the first year, but I was wondering if it's feasible to remove the bow cover and put in a casting deck or will that compromise the integrity of the hull? If I can do it, would it be really expensive? I assume it will be labour intensive, but would I need any special skills or tools? I'm fairly good with my hands.

 

Oh ya, can I add trailer breaks to the trailer, what about bearing buddies? Any idea of cost?

 

Thanks

Maureen

Edited by motv8tr
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Not to difficult to winterize a 2 stroke Mo.

 

With the gas stabilizer, you need to mix it with a bit of gas, maybe a quart, then pour it into the gas tank. Now you need to run the motor for awhile to circulate it thru the entire system. You can buy a set of motor muffs at CTC for only about $15. You hook them to a garden hose and put them on the very bottom of your motor where it draws in the water. You'll see it, there'll be some slots in the housing. Turn on the water, start the engine and run it for about 15 minutes. You'll know everything is working properly if you see a stream of water coming outta the pee hole.

 

For the oil in the lower unit, you should be able to buy it from any boat dealer in your area. You can buy a tube that you squeeze the oil out, or better yet is a pump tank that I always find much more convenient, plus you can re-use the pump every year and just buy the oil afterwards.

 

Also be sure to buy new washers for the screws that you'll be removing to drain and then refill the oil. Their only a few cents each.

 

You'll also need fogging oil to spray into the carburators to keep everything nice and lubricated for the winter.

 

Sounds like lotsa work, but it's all pretty simple really.

 

There's other stuff, but I gotta run right now before I burn the supper :w00t:

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Maureen all you have to do is fog the motor, put stabilizer in the tank and change the lower unit fluid. Make sure that you lower the motor to let all the water run out. No need to remove motor from boat, maybe just cover it.

As far as the hitch goes I'm kinda of confused maybe pics will clear up the problem you have.

 

Sorry Lew beat me to it, and he's right is real easy to do plus it will save ya some money

Edited by Whopper
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rather than modifing your hitch cover return it for one that fits.change your lower unit oil.ive had a boat for more than 10yrs never botherd with that fogger stuff.or fuel stabalizer.and she starts on the 3 or 4th pull every year.burn the extra motor gas in your vehicle the little bit of oil thats in it wont hurt your motor just make sure theres about a half a tank already in it.i wouldnt recomend removing the bow cover this will alter the strengh of the hull.just make a casting deck like mine here is a pic

 

Picture004.jpg

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Picture003.jpg

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Of course I could return it, I've been to the store already, sadly this cover doesn't come in the smaller size...I really like this cover...but thanks for the suggestion. What you did to your boat looks great fishtat2, but mine is a console with a full cover to the windshield, so that won't work for me. There is lots of room to cast at the back.

 

Maureen

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Maureen - you can purchase a coupler that goes from 1 1/4 to 2 inch for your hitch cover. As far as the pump for the lower end goes - Princess Auto has them on sale right now $4 and change - really easy to do. There must be a board member in your area that can show you how to winterize the motor.

 

 

Don

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Thanks Don, and dang it all I was in Princess Auto today while the hitch was being installed. I picked up a locking pin and a trailer lock, didn't notice the pumps...I did pick up the motor muffs last week though :)

 

Lew, I hope your dinner didn't burn, thanks for the suggestions.

 

maureen

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Hey maureen If I remember right Art said he had already put stabilizer in the gas.What I do with my gas is pump it out into my truck and wipe out the inside of the tank with an old towel to remove what ever gas is left and in the spring re wipe in case of any moisture.For the motor just stabilize, fog and cover it up to keep out drifting snow.Oh yeah do the lower end.

 

vance

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rather than modifing your hitch cover return it for one that fits.change your lower unit oil.ive had a boat for more than 10yrs never botherd with that fogger stuff.or fuel stabalizer.and she starts on the 3 or 4th pull every year.burn the extra motor gas in your vehicle the little bit of oil thats in it wont hurt your motor just make sure theres about a half a tank already in it.i wouldnt recomend removing the bow cover this will alter the strengh of the hull.just make a casting deck like mine here is a pic

 

Picture004.jpg

Picture001.jpg

Picture004.jpg

Picture003.jpg

 

 

the boat looks nice! however... I see you used exterior ply and not marine ply... please take no offence to this.... but your asking for a world of trouble in the next few years...

 

Sorry... just an observation...

 

Gerritt.

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Well Lew got the winterizing thing, so I'll try to help ya with the trailer hitch thing.....

 

If you get a peice of 1 1/4 square stock welded on that plate, the finish will burn off. You might be better off to remove the 2 "spring clips and see if you can use some self drilling, self tapping screws in those holes and secure the tubing that way. Make sure the square tubing is ling enough to fit in your hitch to allow the pin to secure it in place.

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Hey Mo, something else I always like to do with my boat when it's going away for the winter, is to lift the trailer up and put jack stands under it, just to keep the weight off the tires for all those months.

 

Not something everyone does, but I personally think it helps.

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Yep..jack the frame..lets the springs regain some arch and lets the tires stay round...helps keep the sidewalls from cracking at the "bulge" as well.

 

Yours, Maureen, can probably be done by simply lowering the hitch jack all the way down...putting axle stands/wood blocks under the frame behind the wheels and then bringing the hitch jack all the way back up.

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Thanks guys, I'll pick up some jack stands, never thought of that. I don't have a snow blower (yet) so that's not an option at the moment.

 

Ron, good thought about the finish, thanks. I'll try to find a coupler first and if I can't I'll try your idea.

 

Maureen

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One last thing I might add to your Winterizing your boat.

 

Add several Clingfree sheets to the interior of your boat. Cornball as all get-out I know but it is a tried and true way of keeping critters from deciding to move in and nest in your boat.

 

I do this every year.... and no they don't make my ride smell spring time fresh either. Oh yeah ClingFree are the ones you want... not bounce.

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You'll also need fogging oil to spray into the carburators to keep everything nice and lubricated for the winter.

 

What I failed to mention Mo, is that the motor needs to be RUNNING while you spray the fogger into the carb. After you've run the motor for 15 minutes to circulate the stabilizer, spray the fogger into the carb until the motor stalls....THEN it's done.

 

It'll smoke in the springtime when you 1st fire it up, but that's normal.

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