Help a newbie buy the right fishing gear!

[myst]

Thanks to your help, I have finally decided on Lake Nippissing for our fishing weekend from September 22-24.

 

I have only owned cheap rods before this, and I am just starting to take fishing more seriously. I have heard about light/medium/heavy whatever, what does all of that mean? I don't know anything about rods but I am a quick learner!

 

Of course I would love to hook a musky, but I won't be going after them specifically. I would like to catch big pike, walleye and bass. What type of line should I get? What are the best rods?

 

Cost is not an issue, but I don't need overkill.

 

Thanks!

[OhioFisherman]

The rod weight usually indicates the lure weight it is designed to cast, light, medium, heavy, basically the stiffness of the rod. A medium action to medium heavy rod is fine for bass and walleye, a bit on the light side for bigger pike and possibly not suitable at all for Muskie of any size.

 

More info is needed, have you used casting reels? or spinning only? Casting reels are usually preferred for big pike and skis some practice may be needed if you haven`t used them before.

 

Line choices are sort of endless, it depends on what your comfortable using and what your fishing for. A line for walleye may not be suitable for bass in cover or pike and skis. And ya it`s easy to go overboard on the price of equipment.

 

You don`t need the most expensive outfit to catch fish, just good quality reliable tackle.

[Burning Babies]

Personally, I think that the best all round beginner rod is a 6'6" medium action spinning combo. I'd recommend rigging it with 10 lb fireline (for which you will need mono backing). It will handle most applications from panfishing through bass and walleye. I'd stick to this rig for a while, before graduating to baitcasting gear.

[ccmtcanada]

You dont have to break the bank on fishing gear...especially if you are just starting out and you dont know your own preferences yet. Here's a good overview of fishing rods...what all the medium, medium heavy, light etc...means. Good luck!

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fishing_rod

[Golfisher]

When I first got into fishing, I also got confused by different rod classications, mostly because I couldn't distinguish between power and action ratings. Power (light, medium, heavy, etc) is basically an indicator of line and lure weight. In general, the larger the species you are targetting, the heavier the rod should be. Action (slow, medium, fast) refers to the flexibility of the rod. A slow action rod bends nearly the whole length of the rod, a fast action bends at the tip, and medium is the compromise in the middle.

 

For the type of fishing you plan to do, I think a rod with medium to medium-heavy power and fast action would be a good start. If you plan to buy more than one rod, it would obviously make sense to get differently rated rods for multiple applications, but unless you target panfish or small brookies, I don't think a light and slow rod would be that useful.

 

In terms of actual rods in the market, choices can be overwhelming. One thing to keep in mind is that high-end rods tend to be one piece; anything in the range of Shimano Crucial and above (around $180 and up) is usually one piece, which makes carrying the rod a bit of a hassle. I opted for Shimano Compre and St. Croix Premier because of this (they offer two-piece rods, though Compre has only one type for baitcasting), and I've been very happy with all four of them. At around 100 bucks and a few changes, I think they are in a reasonable price range.

[Garry2Rs]

If I were starting over, I'd buy two outfits. One Shimano medium spinning rod and reel and one med-heavy Shimano bait casting rod and reel. I'd buy the best rods and reels I could afford and I would put Power Pro on both of them. On the spinning outfit I'd use ten or twenty pound test and on the bait caster I'd use 30 or 50 pound test. When fishing in big Pike or Musky waters I'd use a steel leader.

I like Shimano because they make good products and stand behind them. I live near Peterbourgh so service is available locally. There warranty is as good as Loomis and St.Croix but the prices are lower.

The spinning outfit would be for plastic worms, Mepp's spinners grubs and small jigs for Bass, Panfish and Walleye. The bait caster would be for heavy Jigs, Jig and Pig, large tubes, spinnerbaits, crankbaits and other plugs etc.

I landed 45 Musky in the Kawarthas on year on a medium heavy Loomis Bass rod and 50 lb PowerPro. The biggest was 43 inches, so I'm not saying this was the ideal Musky outfit, but for average fish it did the job.

[myst]

Thanks for the help guys. This cleared a lot of things up for me, I know what to look for now.

 

I went fishing with a friend a couple of weeks ago who had a really nice boat, and like 4 or 5 $400+ rods (he does a lot of bass tournaments). I was just wondering if the rod makes that much of a difference. There are so many rods to choose from that it is very overwhelming.

Edited September 12, 2007 by fishguy777

[myst]

If I were starting over, I'd buy two outfits. One Shimano medium spinning rod and reel and one med-heavy Shimano bait casting rod and reel. I'd buy the best rods and reels I could afford and I would put Power Pro on both of them. On the spinning outfit I'd use ten or twenty pound test and on the bait caster I'd use 30 or 50 pound test. When fishing in big Pike or Musky waters I'd use a steel leader.

I like Shimano because they make good products and stand behind them. I live near Peterbourgh so service is available locally. There warranty is as good as Loomis and St.Croix but the prices are lower.

The spinning outfit would be for plastic worms, Mepp's spinners grubs and small jigs for Bass, Panfish and Walleye. The bait caster would be for heavy Jigs, Jig and Pig, large tubes, spinnerbaits, crankbaits and other plugs etc.

I landed 45 Musky in the Kawarthas on year on a medium heavy Loomis Bass rod and 50 lb PowerPro. The biggest was 43 inches, so I'm not saying this was the ideal Musky outfit, but for average fish it did the job.

 

This is going to sound dumb, but what is a steel leader, or even a leader for that matter? I like the idea of having 2 different rods depending on what size of fish you're trying to catch. As for the test line, is it possible that having higher test than you need is bad for catching smaller fish? Would using 50 pound test for bass actually decrease my chance of catching them? What are the best types of line?

 

Also, I've never used a casting rod, is it hard to learn to use it and what are it's advantages?

Edited September 12, 2007 by fishguy777

[ikoflexer]

I was like you at the beginning of the season. Get a Shakespeare Sigma rod+reel combo at Walmart, for $29; the rod is medium power, medium speed, light graphite. Excellent value for the money, Load the reel up with Fireline Chrystal line, 20lb test; it's very thin but strong (got it snagged and pulled a bulrush from the stem at Canal Lake with this outfit; have pic to prove). I caught bass, walleye, pike, and catfish with this, used it for trolling and casting. Used all kinds of lures on this, from 11 inches rapalas to Super Shad Rap and jitter bugs, or worm and bobber, worked like a charm.

 

Use the rest of the money to get some lures and for gas to go fishing. After a season you'll have your own opinion about what to get next. In fact, I got another of those Sigma's since it worked so well for me. And watch me get a salmon on this same outfit... 'cause I plan to.

 

A pike can cut off your line with its sharp teeth, so one puts a piece of wire at the end of the line (leader) onto which then one puts the lure (spoon, mepps, etc.).

 

Hope this helps, and have fun fishing. Oh, and visit your local library, get a book on fishing, it'll explain lots that you need as a beginner, including knots, how to find fish, etc.

 

Tight lines!

[Fishnfiend]

Buy some polarized fishing glasses and wear them all the time when fishing. You don't need expensive ones, but you definitely need some (unless you already wear glasses). They will help you see fish and structure under water and will protect your eyes from flying lures and/or debris.

[tbayboy]

I'll agree with iko here - get one or two medium rods (maybe medium heavy) that don't break the bank and fish for a season learning as you go. No point buying loads of gear when you don't know what to do with it. If you go to bass pro (or any other decent shop) when they aren't super busy and say 'I've got x dollars and want the basics' they'll probably be happy to help you out with some fundamental stuff (jigs, hooks, spoons, etc).

 

Now this is gonna sound kinda funny but a few years back we bought a copy of 'fishing for dummies' as a joke prize for our annual walleye trip and you know what - its a nicely done book that I'd certainly recommend. Here's the amazon link Fishing for Dummies

[Garry2Rs]

Okay Folks;

Remember that he said price was no object...within reason.

I don't want to step on anybodies toes, but...this is my opinion about buying fishing tackle:

FIRST: Cheap fishing tackle is a lot like dollar-bin tools...The stuff might look okay, but it just don't work that well or for very long. I think it's a sin when people give there kids Spounge Bob crap to fish with. I take the neighbour and his 8 year old daughter fishing every few days all summer long. She uses my $180.00 St.Croix Avid rod and a $175.00 Shimano Stradic 1000 spinning reel...why? Because they are light weight and balanced, that makes them light in the hands and easy for a little person (50 pounds) to cast. She doesn't get tired or bored or frustrated because the crappy cheap mono is always tangling etc.

Get the best you can afford and you will have something that is easy to use right out of the box.

SECOND: There is no market for used, cheap, fishing tackle...We all have lots of it already!...hahaha.

BUT, if you have high end stuff and want to get out of fishing, there are lots of people who will take it off your hands.

The leader question has been answered.

As far as line goes, I am a braided line guy. I use Fireline, Tuff Line Plus and Power Pro, but prefer PowerPro. Ten pound test PP is the diameter of 4 pound test Mono, 20 is about like 6 or 8, so you gain all that line strength without a lot of extra visibility.

I fish unweighted Senko worms in super clear water around dock, rocks and boats. The fish have plenty of time to look the bait over and they have no problem gobbling it down tied to even 20 pound Power Pro.

Baitcasters are not hard to learn, IF YOU BUY A GOOD ONE. I'm using Shimano Calcutta's and Chronarch's, but you could drop down one or two grades and not lose much.

Top of the line rods are worth the money, but you won't know until you try them. Get the ones with the lifetime guarantee. The guides and reel seat are much better quality and the rods are lighter and more sensitive.

Garry2r's

[myst]

Okay Folks;

Remember that he said price was no object...within reason.

I don't want to step on anybodies toes, but...this is my opinion about buying fishing tackle:

FIRST: Cheap fishing tackle is a lot like dollar-bin tools...The stuff might look okay, but it just don't work that well or for very long. I think it's a sin when people give there kids Spounge Bob crap to fish with. I take the neighbour and his 8 year old daughter fishing every few days all summer long. She uses my $180.00 St.Croix Avid rod and a $175.00 Shimano Stradic 1000 spinning reel...why? Because they are light weight and balanced, that makes them light in the hands and easy for a little person (50 pounds) to cast. She doesn't get tired or bored or frustrated because the crappy cheap mono is always tangling etc.

Get the best you can afford and you will have something that is easy to use right out of the box.

SECOND: There is no market for used, cheap, fishing tackle...We all have lots of it already!...hahaha.

BUT, if you have high end stuff and want to get out of fishing, there are lots of people who will take it off your hands.

The leader question has been answered.

As far as line goes, I am a braided line guy. I use Fireline, Tuff Line Plus and Power Pro, but prefer PowerPro. Ten pound test PP is the diameter of 4 pound test Mono, 20 is about like 6 or 8, so you gain all that line strength without a lot of extra visibility.

I fish unweighted Senko worms in super clear water around dock, rocks and boats. The fish have plenty of time to look the bait over and they have no problem gobbling it down tied to even 20 pound Power Pro.

Baitcasters are not hard to learn, IF YOU BUY A GOOD ONE. I'm using Shimano Calcutta's and Chronarch's, but you could drop down one or two grades and not lose much.

Top of the line rods are worth the money, but you won't know until you try them. Get the ones with the lifetime guarantee. The guides and reel seat are much better quality and the rods are lighter and more sensitive.

Garry2r's

 

Thanks for your insight. This is very, very helpful.

 

Today I went to a local fishing shop and this is what they suggested. I wanted to get the boards opinion before I buy anything.

 

Rod: Berkley Series One 6' 6" Medium Action (He said it was the best rod they have in stock)

Reel: Shimano Stradic 2500FH

Line: Berkley Trilene XL 10 pound test (He said it was the best line to go with for bass, walleye, and pike. I asked him about the Fireline and the other lines, and he said they don't stretch and are hard to manage if you get stuck in the rocks or very heavy weeds. He said the Berkley Trilene has some stretch to it which is good. Is this good advice or was he Bull'ing me?)

 

What do you guys think of this setup? From what you said, I would feel more comfortable with a PowerPro 20 pound test which is the same thickness as my 10 pound. Should I do that instead? Also, does anyone know what the best shop is in the Ottawa area?

[Burning Babies]

I think it's a solid setup. He's right about fireline not stretching, but that's mostly a plus in my book - it gives great sensitivity and hooksets. I don't see how he thinks it is a problem in weeds at all, and when it comes to getting hung up in rocks, the biggest problem I have is that it is really hard to break off, unless you use a mono leader. Fireline also doesn't twist like mono can (make sure you put the mono on the right way, btw), and casts like a dream. On the other hand, mono's stretch is pretty forgiving, and you don't have to worry about things like backing with it, so maybe it's a good place to start.

 

Personally, I think you should stick with 10 lb test, regardless of whether you use mono or a superline - you can put a lot of pressure on a fish with that. Just don't toss a bait directly into a brushpile with it and you'll be fine. A medium action spinning rod is not designed to handle the pressure of someone reefing on it with 20 lb no-stretch line.

Edited September 13, 2007 by Burning Babies

[tbayboy]

The stradic (very nice reel by the way) comes with 2 spools so you can always pick up some powerpro and switch between the two. I use 20lb powerpro (6lb diameter or maybe 8) on my 2500 sized sahara (cheaper version of stradic) and it casts great but I also have the other spool setup with lighter stuff (mono, berkley ironsilk, 6ln fireline crystal, etc). I find the mono drives me nuts when I go back to it because of the lost sensitivity but I think you'll be fine either way (try 'em both).

 

Burning Babies is right about the hang ups though, especially with spinning reels - if you get snagged with the powerpro you can't just pull back to snap the line (unless you want to ruin your reel) like you can with mono. And don't wrap it around your hands to try to snap it, quick way to slice yourself up (I use the rubber end of my lip grips to yank it out when I snag).

[tonyb]

Don't forget to compare prices with Cabelas http://www.cabelas.com

 

You'll save a ton of money on rods, reels, and lures compared to shopping in Canada. With the Canadian $ so strong now, and our local tackle shops not lowering their prices, you'll see a big difference.

 

Tony

 

P.S. I'd love to support the local guys, but only if their pricing is competitive, and currently it is not.

Edited September 13, 2007 by tonyb

[Raf]

did i mention it was nice to have ya back garry? excellent advice. spend as much as you can afford.

 

as for the advice you rec'vd. the stradic is a great reel, i would consider a 2000 series reel althoguh the 2500 is a good all-round performer.

 

if you're going to go with mono, i would pick trilene xt over xl if you plan on fishing in cover. it is a much tougher line and has less stretch than xl does.

 

personally I am not a fan of fireline (find it frays too easily) and would suggest power pro or tuff line over it if you are going to go the braid route - the salesmen i beleive gave some bad advice there.

 

i am not familiar with that rod. shimano's clarus or compre lines are good bets however. fenwick also has several rods in that same price range.

[Garry2Rs]

I don't know much about Berkley rods. I owned a couple, way back when everything was made of fiberglass, and dinosaurs ruled the earth, but that was then, this is now.

I like Shimano Compre's, they have good hardware on them, offer a lifetime warranty and they are well priced. There is a new line of rods above the Compre that is even nicer.

The Stradic reel is a personal favourite of mine. I think it represents "the point of diminishing returns"...You have to spend a lot more to buy something that is only a little nicer.

About reel size, don't take something because it's what the store has in stock...try the reel on the rod, if it balances in your hand, it's a good match, if it feels butt heavy, try the lighter 2000, or 1000.

I don't like Mono or Fluorocarbon period! I always have some four pound Fluoro for leaders when Crappy fishing in the spring or if I'm trying to be super stealthy, but I won't spool up with it. By the way, you don't need mono under braid if you tape the braid to the spool's arbour. Tie the braid to the spool just as you would Mono. Put a tiny piece of tape on the line so it can't slip, then wind your line on as normal. On reels with fluted spools (the ones with fancy hole drilled in them to catch fishermen...grin) just tie through a couple of holes. I use Mono as Backing on most of my reels...but that's because I only spool about 150 feet of Powerpro. For my musky reels, I buy the 300 yard spool and can re-spool six times instead of just getting one fill-up on the big reels. I sometimes do the same thing with a 125 yard spool on my small reels. Lets face it, if I put 1/2 of the spool on the reel that's 187.5 feet...that's much farther than I can cast...GRIN.

The only problem with ten pound Power Pro is it's the same diameter as two or four pound test mono, and it cuts off just as easily as two or four pound mono. I use it, but it's not as forgiving as twenty pound test, which is only slightly thicker.

About Fireline...Don't pay to-much attention to the frayed look. The strength is still there. The line isn't braided, it is passed though a pair of hot "irons" to fuse the thousands of little fibers together. When the line has been used for awhile, the ends of the fibers get a little frizzy, but the line is still just as good as ever. They're working to get a smoother more durable finish right now. I think the new and improved is already out in the States...

As I said, I prefer PowerPro or any of the other braids, but I use a lot of Fireline because I often find it on sale for the price of Mono when I'm down south.

I don't understand why Sport's Store guys try to talk people out of buying superline's. Perhaps it's because they don't really understand them...or maybe it's because they can sell you more Mono, next week when this weeks purchase is all twisted and useless...HAHAHA.

Garry2r's

Edited September 13, 2007 by garry2rs

[tonyb]

There are still certain applications where mono is a better fit compared to braid.

 

I think stores don't push it on newcomers because of the additional knowledge required when using it (eg. safety, knots, less forgiving, more difficult to untangle than mono...)

 

I'd agree with whoever said to spool one of the Stradic spools with 10lb mono and the other with 20lb PowerPro and you can switch between them to see what you prefer.

 

Tony

[Toronto_Angler]

This is an awesome thread guys! I'm learning a lot here.

[douG]

See what happens when 2Rs is around? Heckuva nice guy. Did I mention he is also a great photographer? Just a l'il hint, Garry.

[Pasquale]

Thanks to your help, I have finally decided on Lake Nippissing for our fishing weekend from September 22-24.

 

I have only owned cheap rods before this, and I am just starting to take fishing more seriously. I have heard about light/medium/heavy whatever, what does all of that mean? I don't know anything about rods but I am a quick learner!

 

Of course I would love to hook a musky, but I won't be going after them specifically. I would like to catch big pike, walleye and bass. What type of line should I get? What are the best rods?

 

Cost is not an issue, but I don't need overkill.

 

Thanks!

 

Tank here!! When I started out fishing, I just purchased a few bob izumi rods. When I started getting more in to it, I went a little higher end. The I got into baitcasting, thanks to Ontariocarper. now for big pike and musky, I use my baitcaster.

 

Like someone said, you have to start out with medium for all around. then you will figure out what your comfortable with. For a reel go 2000 0r 2500 size for all around.

 

Hope this helps,

Tank

OCH

[addict]

i prefer heavier tackle unless im finnesse fishing i use medium heavy or heavy action i dont like whippy rods.a medium heavy spinning outfit is a good all round combo.for pike or muskie i would go with a 7ft heavy action rod and baitcaster reel spoooled with at least 14lb test.i own 3 shimano rods and they have been very sensitive and durable.i also own a few berkley rods very durable.last year i got a bass pro rod for free and this has proven itself over the course of a season.got a st chroix yesterday seems very nice cant wait to test it.as for reels u cant go wrong with shimano.ive owned quite a few and still use some over 10yrs old extremely durable.not a big fan of quantum i own 2 and both have quirks.this past spring started using some pfluger reels i must say im very impressed lots of bang for the buck,not overly expensive.the president baitcaster and spinning reel.

[aplumma]

When you go out and buy a rod and reel don't look at the price until you have match the combo together and it feel like it is part of your hand then see if it is something you can afford... if not it is better to put it back till you can afford it then to buy something that is almost as good. It does not have to be the most expensive rod on the rack but you should stick with a name brand you are familiar with and a vendor that will warranty it if it is needed. I have around 25 rod and reel combos that are matched for different styles/sizes of the fish I am fishing for. The combos that I have all are just what I want because over the years I have given the ones I experimented with to people who are also looking for what they want in the perfect combo. Don't kid yourself if you buy a combo that does not feel good but is less expensive you will never resell it and reclaim your money.

 

The other subject of line choices I have found that the speed of the tip and the stretch of the line is important to consider when you buy a rod. The sensitivity of todays fishing rods have made it so you can tell if your lure is dragging thru mud or gravel. It allows you to feel a fish inhale a rubber worm before he swims away even. Now with that we add to it a rod that has a fast action will set the hook with as little as 8 inches of movement. A line that has no stretch means that an 8 inch pull moves the hook 6 inches. Add all of this up and factor in youth's fast reaction time and hard concentration and you can pull the hook right out of the fishes mouth even before he bites. The good news is as you fish more and more you will subconsciously take these factors into consideration and naturally hook more and more fish with this technology. I have found that you can either use mono with a fast tip or change to a med fast tip and use the super lines with better success until you get past the learning curve of slowing down your reflex hook setting. The bigger the fish expected (heavier rod) the more I lean to a med speed tip with super line. The advantage of the med tip is it is more forgiving and you can use it dual purpose and troll with it. Yea you can also troll with a fast tip but most people prefer a slow tip so when you hook up the load is distributed along the whole length of the rod.

 

A final note is don't buy a cheap baitcaster it will keep you from learning how to use them and will aggravate you to the point were you will not want one. The bait caster has many advantages over a spinning reel in certain conditions. The two that come to mind is line twist is eliminated and casting length can be adjusted in mid flight. Their are a few others that you will learn along the way but most of my spinning reels are used in open water fishing or by others who fish in my boat.

 

 

Art

[Garry2Rs]

I find Fireline and/or Powerpro are very easy to untangle because the loops don't pull into knots like loops in mono does. If you mean that mono is easier to break off if your hooked to a hard bottom, that's a questionable virtue! In the case where you need to pull the hook free or break off, the easiest way is to point the rod at the snag and reel up tight, jam the spool with your fingers, and pull straight back. The non-stretch line will either straighted the hook, pull the snag free or the line will break. The line will not come flying back at you like that stretchy old mono does. By the way this is the meathod that rod manufactures recomend...your looking to break the rod if you haul back, bending it into a arch.

I not sure what your thinking of, but I honestly can't think of anywhere that Mono is better than braid.

When I was in sales we used to say; "If you have a problem, BRAG about it!" I'm sure that this whole mythology about the stretch in mono being good for you was made up by the mono line manufactures and I think it's total bull crap. The non-stretch lines don't pull the hooks out of fishes mouths! They set the hook for you and your rod acts as the shock absorber...that's it's job, not the lines. What are all the new monos advertising? Low Stretch!

As far as newbies are concerned, they don't know how to tie any knots yet. If they learn the Palomar, they have a knot that is stronger than the original line whether it's tied in braid or mono.

The negative stories about braid started with guys who had only ever used Mono, and with some Pros who are sponsored by the mono-line makers! Real old guys like me...grin...remembered fishing with cotton and Dacron lines in the 50's before spinning was invented. There's not much difference between using those lines and the new super lines, except that the new Spectra lines are smaller in diameter and stronger etc.

Yes, for mono guys, there is a learning curve with the new lines, but it has mostly to do with selecting line based on diameter instead of pounds test. For someone starting fresh it's much easier, there's nothing to unlearn...GRIN.

Edited September 13, 2007 by garry2rs