Tom S

Thinking back as well I did use the Seaguar Knot when tying up some pike leaders this last summer and thought it was a nice knot. Bit more involved than the surgeon's loop, but recommended for fluorocarbon to mono connections.

Fly line to leader is a loop to loop connection, with either a welded loop or a braided sleeve connector on the fly line. I'm liking the braided sleeve connector better as time goes on, they seem less prone to 'hinging' compared to a welded loop. Just make sure to get quality connectors and install them correctly. Leader to tippet is a double surgeons loop. Simple and reliable. Tippet to fly is usually a cinch knot, however I did loose a couple poppers last year when setting hooks on bass poppers so I'm looking for a better knot. Nothing like loosing a 1/2 hour of work to a bad knot.

I did some research before I did my roof last year. I ended up going with architectural shingles, much better product than the old 3-tabs. My decision was based on price and installation. Metal roofing has a much higher price tag, and pretty much every bad review/leaking story I heard could be traced back to installation issues. I could do my roof several times over in shingles for what the metal roof cost, and the installation of shingles is pretty straight-forward. If you do go with metal, I'd be looking for an installer with experience and a good reputation to avoid headaches in the future. What type are you thinking of? Standing seam or pressed panels?

Let me know if I can help in any way

You should. Design it with lapped brass bearings like John Milner offers and sell it as a proper trotting reel.

Nice. When will you start a production run?

To be totally honest I've never understood people's obsession with 'upgrading' bearings on centerpins. If you're worried about start-up you would be focusing on reducing the weight of the spool to reduce the inertia that needs to be overcome. 'Spin Time' is really a bad measure of how good a reel is, but if you're worried about that increase the weight of the spool to increase momentum and give a longer spin time. Bushings would be smoother than bearings once broken in if you're worried about smoothness. Just seems like a lot of money to 'improve' things that should have been considered during the design stage. Take a look at aerial centerpin reels - lightweight spools with very minimal bearing systems for what I think is the ideal way to design a centerpin Baitcasters on the other hand could benefit from improved bearings, as they are lightweight spools running at height speed. I think ceramics are a bit overkill, high-tolerance stainless bearings should be more than sufficient.

Yeah.... Out of touch.

Giving money to these guys? http://www.cbc.ca/radio/thisisthat/toronto-black-bears-self-taught-doctor-bathroomless-condo-canadian-invasion-1.3772835/city-of-toronto-to-reintroduce-black-bears-into-the-don-valley-1.3773030

Shoot Shovel Shut-up (After calling me so I can get some fur for tying flies with)

I can't stand Bass Pro for this reason. They can't even bother to create a website showing Canadian prices. It's like they don't want to bother with the Canadian market and we're a hassle to them. Well, if I feel like I'm a hassle to a shop I just won't shop there.

I think you'll find a lot of tight-lipped folks for that fishery. Tight brush, lots of wood, and deep channels can make Otter and Big Creek unfriendly to wading. Wouldn't want to be near either at flood stage.

We've still got a good bit of capacity before anyone on the Grand really needs to start worrying. It's just cleared the top of the banks, plenty of floodplain to fill up before it starts flooding the trailer parks (they're always first to go). I've seen it much worse before.

I can attest to this. Professional Engineers hired to test product who need me, the Technologist who does an engineer's work, to set up tests and explain how to interpret real world results. PS. Nice target... I mean truck. Got to keep a close eye on new trucks around here.

People who live in the middle east?

Either figure out why they're drawing power (short?) or put in a battery disconnect switch to break the circuit at the end of the day.

If you like thinking movies to break up some of that action, try The Big Short about the market crash a number of years ago and A Faster Horse about the redesign of the 2015 Mustang for the 50th anniversary. Based of my impression of you from here I feel you would like Imperium, about the FBI infiltrating a neo-nazi group in the US.

Just thinking out lout here, but if you apply your sealant from the inside and let it flow into the crack won't it be forced back out of the crack during use? Wouldn't you want to apply it from the exterior so that any water pressure would hold the sealant on the crack? Thinking in terms of sealing elements such as o-rings, gaskets, and such you want to support that sealing element as much as you can, as it's not a strong component on it's own and can easily be torn if not properly supported.

$1.03 in Hamilton last night. $1.15 on Hwy 6 outside Caledonia. What a crook.

Thinking about picking up this one https://www.govdeals.com/index.cfm?fa=Main.Item&itemid=26&acctid=8074 Anything I should watch out for in a used boat? What kind of riggers would fit best?

As long as you can provide a reason for the price you're offering I don't think there should be any issue. I'll often send in low offers, and make sure that I provide evidence to back it up. Sometimes it leads to some negotiation, other times they walk away. No reason for anyone to get offended over that. On the other hand, if you're one of those guys who's going to lowball because 'thats all the money I can offer' or some lame excuse like that it's a different story and you can just get lost in my opinion.

Thanks. I think I will try to get some better pictures, I'm still trying to figure out how to take a good picture of the whole rod.

Finished up a rod rebuild that I've been working on for quite a while now. It's an Algonquin 9'6" 9wt fly rod, it would have been made in Toronto area in the late 70's to early 80's using Fenwick components. I picked it up from a yard sale, it was pretty beat up and looked like it might have been used for Salmon flossing as it had damage to the ferrules that had been somewhat repaired with electrical tape. I kept the original reel seat, even through it's a bit banged up it is fully functional and keeps a connection to the original rod. Work done includes: -Strip down to bare blank -Replacing the cork with a proper Fenwick grip -New metal winding check -New guides, wrapped with back thread with a white three-turn inlay This rod also has an extension for the grip that fits into a socket on the end of the reel seat and should allow some switch casting as well. Looking forward to getting it out on the water.

Looking for the like button...

They don't put price tags on because that's a labour intensive job and the packaging is already printed with a UPC code on it. Sorry, no conspiracy there.