AKRISONER

This should actually be very straight forward. get them to write you out a bill of sale and provide the title documentation. You are going to need a way for them to hand you the ownership slip for the trailer too. A trip down to Ohio might be in order simply to get the paperwork together. or you courier it to you. The challenge here is that there is a rule for boats that are brought over the border the responsibility for importing the boat is placed on the person that drives it over the border no matter what. I know this because I played with the idea that my seller could bring the boat into cansda and then I would take it through the importation process. Customs would not let that fly unfortunately. this is such a weird scenario your best bet may be to call customs and ask for their advice. To start you want to be able to tell customs that you have 100% of the appropriate paperwork ready to go, you just don’t know what procedure to take in regards to completing the importation of the boat. it may end up being so stupid that you will have to drive down to the states with the boat pretending that you are delivering the boat back to them. Then subsequently turning around and driving back into cansda with it and the paper work to complete the importation process. id hope customs would make an exception, but they are so weird, just driving the boat over the border and back might be the fail safe method od going about this. call customs though they pick up and are willing to chat, I did it before importing my boat last fall when I had questions about the best way to get the boat over the border while restrictions for Canadians were still in place. also, even at $2200 if the boat has been in storage for 3 years without being winterized or covered, make sure you go see the boat before you buy. The lower end could be destroyed, and mice could have absolutely torn up the interior depending on how it was stored. I’m also scared of a motor with a quarter tank of ethanol gas sitting in it for 3 years. That could also spell massive issues. an 06 merc I’m assuming 2 stroke? Should be ok just make sure you don’t end up paying $8,000 in repairs on top of your purchase price because that’s not going to be such a great deal when all is said and done. don’t forget, the tax man will also be calling when you import the boat. Hopefully the trailer is an 06 too and you will be exempt from doing the trailer inspection crap as well. Just something else to factor in

boats are enough of a headache as it is, if just getting stuff to fix them is an additional headache I know what direction id be headed towards.

i guess it really is going to get more and more difficult to service Evinrude/BRP motors now.

rebuilt the hydraulics on my 98 yamaha 130...the only special tool needed was to open the caps on the ram seals. you can buy the wrench head on amazon. The one I got was adjustable, it wasnt as easy as the ones literally specifically made for opening your particular model of motor but so what it still worked. I was able to find the full set of whatever seals I felt like replacing on boats.net. You shouldnt need to replace the entire assembly thats insane. It was literally no more than 10 rubber gaskets of various sizes and that was all. You can search for parts by your engine part number. The job was really straight forward and youtube helps a ton. Open up the rams, Suck out/absorb as much of the old fluid as you can. pull the rams, replace the seals on them with new ones, put them back in and close it up, then follow some of the youtube videos on how to refill your boats hydraulic fluid. Shops literally use synthetic power steering fluid that you can buy at canadian tire. Also very straight forward, my trick because i was doing it from empty was to blip the trim to pump fluid a bit to get some pressure built up as i went through the process of filling the reservoir again. Replacing the actual trim motor was really easy, 5 bolts and unplug it...plug it back in and put the bolts back in. I got my new motor, it was clearly 3d printed by a shop in Michigan, its pretty much just an electric coil, nothing fancy about that at all. If you are mechanically inclined at all you can do the job yourself. If you really are hopeless, someone would do it for you for less than 3 grand, heck ill do it for you for a heck of a lot less than that as long as you can get the parts. Someone has to be making those rubber seals still, they dont need to be made by bombardier/BRP thats for sure. Replacing the entire trim assembly because you have a few bad seal would be like putting a new axle, transmission and differential in your car because you need new tires lol Post your Exact engine model number (it will be on the outboard) and I will search to find what you need for you.

Still waiting for some pics of the rig!!

straight forward for the trailer, you will need the ownership/green slip for it when you buy the boat. You take it to Service Ontario and transfer over the ownership and get your plates for it at this point. You will also pay taxes on the trailer so be prepared for that cost. Ensure that your bill of sale has the trailer and boat separated on it. Service Ontario is going to know how much you paid for the trailer.

It’s a mepps

As much as guys will tell you “I catch fish on an ugly stick!” there’s just something about a beautiful set up that’s almost like a big diamond ring to me, except it’s functional as well. I’ve got a MB destroyer with a FX68 that you’d think were literally sold as a combo they pair and balance up so beautifully. enjoy the rod and make sure you post pics the first time you test out the flex on it!

I messaged the admin about this same problem. No solution yet

I have no idea where to connect a tac into a motor that doesn’t already have one. Other than that if it has a feed it’s as simple as plugging it in. maybe next winter if I get bored I’ll reconfigure my connects and do that nice clean grounding bar set up in my boat. Right now I’m using two distribution blocks, same idea of having raw power but no shut off for the units specifically. Garmin does an excellent job tbh of getting the units to get everything powered up and shut off. You turn a unit on and you see the network hub and panoptix black box fire right up. I basically rewire every winter anyways because my panoptix comes out of the boat for ice fishing. For now I’m running with what I’ve got.

Last year March 25th we had a bit of a warm kick that lined up with a Friday I believe. this year I’m sitting and waiting patiently, and I’m dying cause I’ve reconfigured the boat set up and want to test it out. Unfortunately obligations this time of year trump the boat. a good quote I heard once is the off-season is when I save my marriage 😂 Originally the forecast for this week looked super promising, and it still kinda is for down here but up north it really “cooled off” especially for this weekend the forecast is now +1 and snowing for Saturday. looks like the boats not getting out until the 23rd ish at the earliest me thinks, may even be the may 1 weekend!

Yup, let me know if you need even any advice, I just finished a crisp install myself. If you want some really good ideas, watch that video I posted above with the caymas. In hindsight there’s even a couple of nice little details that I wish I did in my own. Maybe for another day though. a lot of the stuff can be done relatively cheap too, it’s just the wiring that costs money. The idea of using a grounding bar to clean up the terminals for the electronics is a sweet idea that I hadn’t thought of. I also really like how they handled the in line fuses at the shut off. I opted to go the distribution block route myself but that idea is so clean how could you not like it.

Yup, no issue the minkotta plug is the same across all models. Depending on the age of the Fortrex you may need to switch the plug on your terrova to your old foretrex plug or swap receptacles. It’s really up to you what you want to do either way you can use that plug on your new trolling motor or vice versa etc. totally cross compatibility without concern for voltage or amperage.

My god, the smartest thing I ever did was start writing all over my wires in marker to tell me what the hell was what. I remember trying tape a few times and all that happened was the tape got caught while running the wire lol. Ive learned as stated, If you have a job to do, just plan for an entirely new install and rip everything out that you possible can. Non marine wire, non tinned copper terminal ends, merrets, electrical tape, wrong sized fuses (this one is scary) I’ve seen it all and it’s not like I do this professionally. to date scariest thing that’s happened to me and I had a whole thread about it a few years back was the crappy stock minkotta plug receptacle vibrating my wire and cutting it to the point that it down guaged built resistance and lit on fire without me knowing it. to this day I still have no clue why a fuse didn’t blow or my boat didn’t light on fire. So lucky. unrelated and on a terrifying note, went to the car wash today and was taking off the bib off my truck and found a whole mouse nest on top of my friggin battery! My truck was a friggin tinder box and I didn’t even know it. Blew out the nest and sprayed pesticide all over the battery cover, hopefully that will deter the little bugger from returning!

Merely directing this gentleman OMC to a professional. His job seems far more serious. i will add once again, please do not take this as anything more than I’m presenting it as. You need a hand, shoot me a DM. If you are looking for a business, that is not something I am running I already am employed full time.

having ripped apart a 98 skeeter and a 2006 stratos that were both outfitted with aftermarket electronics installed by the previous owner to install my own, people really love canadian tire spools of wire, merretts and electrical tape 😆 In some ways I wish the guys had never installed a thing, finding the mess they made and getting it out of the boat was half of the battle! as we speak, ive got an ancient lowrance transducer cable fed into my console area that I cannot find the other end to to get rid of it. If i attempt to pull it to the console it doesnt budge, I cant seemingly find the other end of it anywhere else in the boat...so there it will stay i guess lol Ive got a decent spool of used marine 8 guage wire now that I have no clue what I am going to do with lol. Maybe a friend one day will be in need and not mind using dirty wire.

I just saw this youtube video where they go over an electronics install in the guys new caymas. This is exactly the kind of attention of detail and proper wiring I am describing. You can go from this level all of the way down to simply getting things to work but making sure that you wont have issues with corrosion, bad wire, overheating and resistance ever. I am also capable of assembling wiring harnesses that will allow you to DYI the installation yourself but will allow for you to essentially plug and play your boats electronics by stringing the wire through your boat! No electrical tape jobs here! Heres photos of my total re-do, Garmin Force trolling motor, two garmin sv's, panoptix livescope and all networked to through a GMS 10.

are you rewiring your controls and console as well? Or just the electronics?

Would totally be dependent on the specifics of the job/do you also need materials included and to what extent you want to go with your installation. Even I havent gone to the "full extent" simply because of budget reasons in my own boat. I have no certifications just a decent amount of experience doing DC wiring since I was 17 years old? (I am 34 now) Started with stereo equipment in cars and then moved specifically into wiring boat electronics which is a very Niche thing that if you hired an electrician/mechanic to do the job, they probably will get it to work but not optimize the application. If this is something you are going to need an invoice for I am definitely not your guy you will want a pro (not sure there are any in Ontario at the moment? There are definitely a few shops in the southern states.). I'm not so certain there are any actual electricians working in this field at all at the moment? Seeking Proof of concept, I can show you my boat which I also just rewired. If you are looking engine work/controls, I am not your guy for sure. Feel free to send me a DM or reply here with what you are considering doing/need done and I would be more than happy to talk through everything with you at no cost, I love to talk about this stuff anyways. Ill tell you everything that should be done for free and you can tell someone certified exactly what you want done if it gives you peace of mind. I love to help fellow members out in the same manner that they have helped me!

Will pay for itself in no time with dem bugs

You can, however it does not have the same “bonding” qualities or the water resistance of proper reel or gun oil. Those specific oils contain additives to make them “stickier” and are designed to combat water and corrosion. It will do in a pinch but there are better options! A quick google will tell you guys use it but they find that it washes away after a good fish in the rain.

You can’t see the prop, you’ll be blown away by how fast they spin once in the water, it’s almost ultra sonic, even the sound of them, you can hear them when they get near the boat. The bait actually looks exactly like a shiner but the shiner is sending off high pitched TINNNGGG sound.

absolutely Dan, this is not me attempting to start a full time business doing this either, moreso a helping hand to a fellow board member that is maybe intimidated by the prospect of upgrading their electronics or as I have already been reached out to about, one guy having issues with his trolling motor and not feeling the confidence to attempt to tackle it himself. in no ways am I putting myself out to the “public” but If a long time board member needs their boat cleaned or a trolling motor rewired and obviously cannot afford to take it to a shop and spend thousands I can probably help them out. primarily though I see a lot of companies now selling these plug and play harnesses out of the states and the pricing is absolutely astronomical, surely I can at minimum assemble a harness for someone for less than half of that cost. I looked up yesterday a harness for my boat for example these American companies are charging $700+ which to me is no different than a lot of things in the marine industry, overpriced just for the sake of it. i really appreciate your heads up, I believe you can appreciate what I am getting at. This is in no way a full time gig, I’ve got a good job, I just could use a bit of money to pay for my pets surgery last week and maybe someone around here needed a hand.

Be patient…it’s a really boring way to fish, at least imo but when the presentation is correct they will outfish a heck of a lot of stuff. Also just a ridiculously versatile bait. our last NGTA meeting we actually got to listen to a live seminar with the owner of DUO Japan. I learned more than I could have ever imagined about spy baiting lol. coming directly from the owner, don’t throw it on anything heavier than 8lb test. And make sure the line you are using is of a high quality, he has his reasoning and you gotta believe the guy, he basically is single handedly responsible for making these baits hit the main stream again. i watched chonger throwing a spy bait up in 4 feet of water last year and it was just something I had never even considered, go figure they’d eat the spy bait but wouldn’t eat a ned rig.

Back when the boys all had to use the same boats 😂