Fisherman

I'm suspecting a weak impellor on the water pump, just like for the outboard.

According to the website, it's not listed as automatic, however an auto switch can be spliced in to make it happen. You say you don't see a switch, maybe on the dash or where the battery is located, maybe just have to follow the wires a bit more.

Well it seems that a litle bit of sarcasm didn't fit the bill so I'll explain a bit further. Like others said, you can go to the Safety Site and find out the answer. Although it says you only need one oar or paddle on board, I could sacastically say that there's nothing illegal about paddling or rowing around in circles. Furthermore it also says, you may need an anchor with chain or rope, but it doesn't give any specs on the rope or chain so I suppose you could use your other halfs gold neck chain or some flimsy rope. When the occassion happens that you need to save your bacon, I would suggest that it's a bit more efficient to row with 2 oars, or having a sturdy piece of rope or chain for the anchor to keep from drifting away. It appears there's still a bit of distance between legal and safe. The end.

Swallow..and they swallow lots of flying bugs.

Ya, you don't need oars if you have an anchor, however I think the jist of it is "motion", kinda hard paddling or rowing with an anchor.

Did you actually pass the safe boater course?

Nice boat, how big is the tank(gas, not livewell)?

About 1 large Timmies or 1 beer. I just did an 8 HP Honda a couple weeks ago, 5 bolts under the lower unit, 1 cotter pin that holds the shift linkage together, slide off the whole lower leg, undo 4-5 more small bolts on the impellor cover, remove impellor, replace with new one and a little plop of vaseline, to ensure a slippery surface. Put everything back together..about 15 minutes with a healthy cursing of the cotter pin. Just don't go gorilla when you tighten things back up.

Impellors are located on the drive shaft from the motor down and just above the lower unit gears, as soon as you start the engine, it turns and starts forcing water up the cooling tube to the engine cooling passages. There's no slow to engage. It may have one or more flaps broken off and blocking the tube, hence no flow. Time for a new impellor. As a side hint, 3-4 times during the off season, I turn the flywheel 1/3 to 1/2 a turn in the same direction as the motor runs, prevents the rubber flaps on the impellor from being stuck in the same position for 6 months The impellor pump housing sits slightly off center and half the flaps are curled more than the other side when not running.

If they are CGC and TC approved then they must have passed a couple of critical tests, however, like you say, who knows how long they stand up, when the stitching starts to unravel, etc. I've got some old mustang products and still trust them, the imported safety stuff won't be on my boat.

And you are the winner of the obvious that no one else noticed. If they are already wired in parallel, then you are going to have two sets of wires trying to charge 2 batteries that are not isolated. That's why opnions are sometimes...just that.

When the highway blitz police stop you and see those tires and have you towed away, be sure and send the bill to your neighbour, I'm sure he'll pay with a smile.

12 volt 7 amp will give you several days of fishing, they are the size that most of the winter flashers use.

Ha, ha, ha, not enough power to warm up the transmission, excess of 10K#, musta been all downhill Another marvel of GM engineering, know I know why I drive a Cummins.

Boat 750 + motor 240 + X for the total empty trailer weight. Then add batteries, gas, anchor, yada, yada, and it adds up pretty quick. I'm going to guestimate and say the trailer empty weighs in at about 450# or so, so the tongue weight you have is pretty close to optimum. When you go for a drive, check in the mirror and see that the boat is not gently weaving or fishtailing, then all is well. Just out of curiosity, what is your tow vehicle?

Yup, I went to the extra effort to grind off a couple thousants from the exterior of the old race, all my luck the darn thing would get stuck on top of the new one. Maybe a visit to P/Anext week for a driver.

You want 10-12% of the total boat/motor/trailer package weight as tongue weight. You must weigh the boat/motor/trailer package by itself onn the scale, not hitched to the vehicle. Then adjust the winch tower either forward or back or if you're so lucky, some trailer axles can be moved to achieve the correct amount.

That is an open ended question just looking for opinionated answers, most of which can cost you money,(Wayne excepted). If you don't have the manual, go get one from the dealer, the manual will indicate the minimum octane rating needed to keep the motor running within specs. I don't run a black anchor, however there are a number of dealers in the local area, I go to Sturgeon Point Marina in Wasaga Beach.

$80..ya bunch of thieves, one extra large regular Timmies. We did my friends trailer on Saturday afternoon, about 1/2 hour, old bearings and races out, new in with new seals, greased and installed. No special tools needed. Throw the new bearing races in the freezer before you start,(in a plastic baggy, pre-greased) shrinks them enough that they are much easier to start into the hub.

Morning glitch, somebody sleeping on the switch.

Must have a good paying job too.

I didn't think you were allowed to possess more than one licence.

The problem is, there IS a problem, way to many people using it for personal poop chat and everything except stuff related to being on the water. If you interrupt them, they get right ornery and tell you to "get lost" and "mind your own business". Maybe if a few of those idiots got wacked, the rest would fall in line. The day someone needs help, some pinecone will be yacking about their previous nights BBQ and drunk party...use your phone. If it was up to me, you wouldn't be allowed to buy a VHF without having your licence first.

Ya, but if it was installed right in the first place, with proper dedicated grounds to each light fixture, then you don't have that problem.

I would believe that's a techical immpossibilty, charging 2 group DM31's from dead to full charge in 1 hour. Most batteries, with the rare exception, can't sustain a charge of more than C20 for a very short time without overheating, warping the plates and dying. Either your batteries are not actually dead or only showing a surface charge, false reading.