Fisherman

There is a one way valve at the entrance end of the fuel bulb, if there wasn't, you would never be able to pump the fuel up from the tank to the motor and get it to remain in the line. For checking it, pump the fuel bulb up on the kicker and then detach the line from the fuel tank, the fuel should not run out of the end of the hose. Hang the fuel line over the side of the boat and have a small can or similar receptacle to put the end of the hose in so if it does leak, you won't be spilling it on the ground. Another possibility is that the fuel pump on the motor could be weak or pooched.

You say it's your kicker motor, is it attached to the same tank as the main motor? How about the one way valve in the ball is allowing the fuel to run back to the tank. There may also be a rubber "O" ring in the fuel line connectors at the tank and motor that might not be sealing 100%.

I'm only taking a stab at this, I'm almost sure that the fuse is on the solenoid for the starter motor, and that the "dead battery is causing an overload trying to recuperate. Just for experiments sake, disconnect the trolling motor battery before you restart your main motor and see if it still blows the fuse.

Now, now Brian, I realize that as we get older, sometimes we regress a bit to our younger years and get things more fit for a "young" person. you can't retrieve your youth and beauty sleep doesn't work.

I'nm suspecting that the fuse is blowing because the battery is drained too far down and the charging system is going into overload trying to recuperate. I prefer the ABC switch too.

Oh GCD, you're so tactful..

Are you out there scaring the fish and skinny dippin again just wait til I tell Mother Nature

Go to a real bearing shop and ask for the double lipped seals, they work much better to keep water out and the grease in.

Scotty made in Canada, good for our business, excellent warranty, my electrics are over 10 years old, never had a problem. Check CTC and I think W-mart might still carry them at a better price.

That size fish would be at the very upper limit for me to keep, and only when from clean cold water. I've caught and kept a couple that were slightly bigger and the quality of meat and taste suffers.

Unfortunately no, but, picture Holdfasts rig and in stead of the plywood holding up the canoe, the 2x4 takes its place to set the boat on. The 2 1' axles are "U" bolted to the ends of the 2x4 with enough sticking out to allow the wheels to be added on with presto pins and washers. Like someone said above, the tires are better off being hard rubber like item #2020090 from Princess Auto..no flats.

Well someone has to help him eat shore lunch.. 1. Choronzy 2. Babe Winkelman 3. Pete Bowman Northern Manitoba or BC coast Walleye & Lakers or Salmon

Yes, required length of 2x4 to go side to side across the bottom of the boat, 2x 1 foot 5/8" axles, 2 wheels from Princess Auto about 12" high, one ratchet strap to go over the boat and hold the 2x4 underneath. I had a 14' with a 7.5 on the back, I could leave everything inside it and wheel it around by myself. Forgot the 4 x 5/8th "U" bolts to hold the axle to the 2x4.

I see after giving you the date of when everyone needs the card, I won't go any further except for you to go here and read: http://www.tc.gc.ca/marinesafety/debs/obs/paperwork/menu.htm

With all the advertising regarding Boating Operators cards that are required for everyone by 15 Sep 09, regardless of age or boat size or motor size, you would think you might have picked up on that by now.

That's a good price, with or without rim and, galvanized at that. I would buy them but my fenders are not wide enough.

If he has/had load range "C" 12" tires, then 80 psi is the correct amount, look on the sidewall for inflation, that's what mine also say, load range "B" are 50 psi.

That sort of goes with the "high octane" myth...oh ya, it makes wayyyy more power, some folks should read what some products actually do and what they shouldn't be used for.

Trailer tires are a real pain in the .. You'll find that 99% of them are made in you know where, quality control is mediocre at best, apparantley Goodyear is bring back some of their trailer tire production back to the USA. Princess Auto does have 145/12 inch radial tires in C load range, see if they fit.

I really thuink the GPS and Fish finder are not the power hogs, my GPS takes less than 1 amp and Fish Finder on 1.0 amp even with the light on. The livewell will probably take about 3 amps or a bit more. At idle my motor will show about 13.2 volts, anything above idle it goes to about 13.8. I'm suspecting a weak battery, if it's a maintenance type battery, have you checked the fluid level? Like F/F said, get a charger on the battery for 24 hours with nothing connected, then wait 12 hours or so and check the voltage reading, if it's below 12.6 volts, it's on the way out, 12.3 is only 50% and anything below that, you're off to the battery store.

Ryan: I can give you a helping hand with that, no charge, give me a call tomorrow around 5pm if you wish, I'm just "down the road" from you. Just don't tell me your want to clean my carpet or sell me windows when you call. I'll PM you my phone number.

Well, I'm going to take my stab at it, one pair of positive & neg wires to start the motor and the other pair for accessories such as lights, radio, fish finder, etc. Both the positive wires go to the positive post, the neg's go to the other post. No two ways about it. If it's not charging, then you may have a blown fuse in the charging circuit or the "electronics" that do the charging may be faulty. What kind of motor, etc, do you have?

Rick, I'm only taking a stab at this, don't know for sure about the motor, however, check your manual and see if this has a rubber timing belt, some of the older ones did, some are just a gear driven camshaft with pushrod OHV. If it's got the rubber belt, see if you can get a replacement and change it. Good luck

You got a sweet deal, ideal litle genny for running the fridge or freezer during outages or lights, coffee pot, etc. Best I could find was this link to some of the manuals, although they don't list "EC" some of the other models are probably close enough to do any needed repairs. http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/products/manuals/ Quick update, it appears to be a 1969 model, there is one shop manual located on ebay in Winnipeg, here: http://cgi.ebay.ca/Honda-Generator-Model-E...p3286.m20.l1116

Probably the best just before and around sunrise, although some days when the bite is on it doesn't seem to matter