aplumma

https://ontariofishingcommunity.com/termsofservice/

Please realize that we have a rule that prohibits showing exact spots using pictures or maps. If you want to exchange information beyond general suggestion it must be done thru P.M. Thank you Art

The name of it is the lower end or lower unit you can purchase reconditioned lower ends from various places. The ability to weld it needs to be looked at closely by a welder. Sorry as garnet pointed out I was wrong I thought it was on the lower unit from the picture. Art

Issue solved back to the nice fish porn. Art

Saw a guy shoot one with a shotgun once lots of survivors lots of stings as well .lol. On another note taxidermists love to use abandoned ones for bear mounts and will pay good money for them.

Here is a short Swedish Crawfish party video you decide which one you want to attend.

Here is a short video of just one of the Crawfish festivals that happen all over the South.

Good question but one that we ask people not to answer on this board. We prefer people get out and find their own places so they do not become over fished. Thank you Art

We send out a monthly e mail to all of the members to show them a sample of what is going on to see if they want to visit more often. We are hoping to get the site to pay for all of the security and program upgrades we are doing to enhance the site. If you do not wish to receive it you can opt out in your settings/ other settings under your profile. We hope in the future to add some of the other projects that T.J. has cooking. We will have to see if we can do it without burning out our I.T. Blueye aka Chad. Thanks to everyone and Chad for helping us do some much needed maintainance Art

Nice looking lures wish I had muskies down here to use them. good luck. Art

You know I didn't read this thread till now. There is not to be political discussions on here if someone see crap like this please hit the report button. Thank you Art

I have been using a product call grass seed mats from a landscape company. I lay it out and once the grass pokes thru I gently lift it and use it on another area. It is the only thing I have found that keeps the chickens from scratching for the grain. I also have a friend who works for a golf course and the seed mixes they use are the bomb. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/ez-straw-grass-seed-germination-blanket-4-x-50-ft-200-sq-ft Art

Feel free to give advise however if you are going to name spots keep them to P.M. please. Art

This is a quote from one of my manuals on high performance two strokes. Oils made for oil injection use have a considerably thinner viscosity than oils intended for premix. It is unwise to use a premix type oil in an injector because a premix type oil can have difficulty passing through the small orifices in many oil-injection systems. On the same tack, it is a very bad idea to use an "oil-injection" oil in a premix application because the reduced viscosity will not offer the lubrication needed in a pre-mix situation. art

The Sta bil does two things one is for ethanol and as a decarboning product. If you are running ethanol free gas then you still should run some kind of decarboning product. I am not sure what ring free is but the name implies decarboning. Many different fluids use basically the same ingredient with there own secret blend to make it better than others so as long as it is a trusted name you can use it. This said I use these products. Decarboning is Stabil 360 and Seafoam . Ethanol management Stabil 360. Carb disassembly brake cleaner non chlorine. Two stroke lubrication Amsoil 100:1 marine. Winterizing or 1 month storage any engine fogging oil marine. I like all of what you are doing but see if you can Find Sta bil 360 it has 2 advantages it is twice as concentrated and it creates a fog in the tank that cuts down on corrosion in the tank. I have stored aluminum/ steel tanks with stabil 360 and they all have shown no oxidation/ rust inside when I returned them to service. With the cost of marine engine repairs taking the time and effort to use a few additives pays off in years of service and fewer break downs. I am a big fan of prevention and over building engines to keep them running smoothly for years to come. Art

I usually tell people that we are fishing for sharks that way if we get skunked I can explain how hard they are to find in freshwater. Art

Chris you can mix 100:1 down to what your equipment advises with no ill effects. They are achieving the 100:1 ratio by additives and blending which are more expensive than dino oil. Dino oil is good enough for most applications and Pennsoil has a big following for a good reason. Personally I use the best products I can find and pay the price simply because maintenance is always cheaper than repairs. I was taught by my engine guru he would always say "that grease is cheaper than metal." Right now I am using 80:1 on all of my motors and on disassemble they look great. The big difference between two stroke and two stroke marine is it's additives that coat the bottom end of the motors to prevent rust. I strictly use the marine version as well as a product called sta bil 360 which is for the ethanol in fuel. The secret of the 360 is it creates a barrier between the air and the gas to lessen it absorption and also it encapsulates the water to allow it to go thru the combustion process without harm. With the use of these additives the engine will run better and longer between services. I get a lot of carburetors brought to me that have nothing more than scum and varnish that have built up in the passages due to sitting and poor fuel management. The engines that I get that fail due to oil related issues are almost always from coking which builds up and does not allow the blow by needed to lubricate the bottom end bearings. (coking and carbon build up are the same thing) Once the ring stops floating in the grooves they will be referred to as (stuck) and they will start to scar the cylinders and this creates heat and expansion. Eventually the compression between the cylinders will create an unbalanced up and down force and destroys the bearings supporting the crank. Finally with all of this unbalanced forces it will break the piston wrist pin and send the crank thru the casings. Depending on the amount of forces at work this can sometimes give you enough warning before it destroys itself or it can be within minutes. Art

Brian you can mix the oils without an issue. The difference is the synthetics have a better or cleaner burn than the non synthetic so the wear factor is less. The non synthetic oils burn less clean but they coat the lower end of the motor crankshaft, rods, piston, bearings etc. This means when you store the engine between uses you have less chance of rusting on the parts. Remembering that the first and majority of the work that the oil does is lubricate the top end of the engine it is why I use a synthetic over dino oil. The answer for me is to run the synthetics and use fogging oil between 2 weeks or longer of non use. Most people would find that this is to much of a pain but some of the motors that I am protecting were expensive to build and are worth the few minutes to keep them healthy. Art

Ding Ding Ding we have a winner. It is a really hard concept to explain to people that the higher the oil content the leaner the engine runs and the hotter the pistons will get. Part of the cooling process is the atomization of the fuel. Most people think it is the friction that generates the heat that causes the oil to coke and stick a ring. The cheaper the oil is the easier it is to coke. This is not as critical on machines that run in a narrow powerband such as weed eaters and chainsaws so running 100:1 oil that is designed to be run 100:1 does not stick the rings even though it is leaner than designed. After heavily modifying jetskies for racing and a few Yamaha 2 stroke motorcycles RD350 RZ350 amsoil has been used with no oil related failures, cheap oil will kill an engine in my observations. Art

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/2-stroke/outboard-100-1-pre-mix-synthetic-2-stroke-oil/ I am not sure why your distributor can't get this product. It is still made and distributed by amsoil in the US. Art

to keep from sanding the details then use a chemical stripper with fine steelwool. After tacking use a magnet to make sure you got all of the wool off. Good luck Art

There is a product called claybar used on auto paint that will buff out scratches in clear coat. The heat has damaged the clear coat and the clay bar might be able to remove the damaged part. It is going to take awhile to buff it out. If you find that you have gone thru the clear coat then sand an area back to the wood and reclear coat it with a polyurethane. Once feathered in use progressive grits of sand paper 1000 1500 2000. The good news is if it does not look right sand it back and redo it. Art

Try this link. https://www.worldsbestoil.ca/find.php Art

The price of a raw material is incorporated in the end price. This is either artificially dropped by a merchant accepting a lower profit margin or by streamlining the cost of producing an item. Both are bad for a business. A drop in profit is not acceptable because it is a cut in working capitol that the company needs. A streamlining is where hours and employee are cut back on or worst the benefits that previously enjoyed are cut or eliminated. To limit this type of slippery slope a tit for tat type of attitude should be avoided. The Governments will make up a limited list and this will go forward as to what tariffs we will impose/trade till both parties feel they have equally punished each other. The pendulum will swing the other way and return to status quo. A business that reacts and cuts orders and friendships that they have cultivated over the years will not be able to return to status quo when the correction occurs. If I were a merchant that sold across the border an explanation of what caused the price increase as well as a promise to not cut quality or timely product delivery would keep the business happy. The person who is hurt by the tariffs is the end product user who has no one to pass the cost on to. Art

I replaced my two system in August and the Goodman was offered as a way to save money on the installation. The biggest difference was the blower unit that the goodman used was just a fixed rate 2 speed blower where the Carrier has an infinite speed unit as well as an different compressor motor. I went with the carrier because of these reasons as well as the support in parts were much better in the area I live in. Over the winter the variable speed motor was much quieter with the humidifier running and my electric bill and propane bill both went down due to the efficiency of the heat pump and motor speed reductions. Art