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Everything posted by G.mech
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Keep that up and they're going to make you get a permit to fire a rifle into the air!
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S-W 20 plus knot winds doesn't sound like a good day for Port Maitland.....
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The overhead of fishing in general is insane let's face it...if it's all about the money then you're way better off just buying the fish. If you look at it as a hobby, making your own tackle doesn't cost that much and keeps you occupied in the garage (near the beer fridge) for hours on end during the off season. I pour and paint jigs, tie my own walleye worm rigs, dropshot rigs, stinger hooks etc and I pour bottom bouncers for half of the county it seems. The quality is as good or better than the stuff you buy and it's put together just the way I want it. Luremaking.com is a great source for parts and materials.
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They are for sale as non-restricted weapons on the website I posted as well as many others...... https://www.firearmsoutletcanada.com/bushmaster-acr-dmr-223-rem-18-6.html#.Wrfs-S7wbIU https://www.firearmsoutletcanada.com/kodiak-defense-wk180c-223-18-7.html#.Wrfsti7wbIU
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I stand corrected, technically maybe but many of the .223 semi's such as Bushmaster .223 semi uses all the parts and pieces so what diff? Also, semi auto rimfires can have high cap mags.....the others just need the rivet drilled out to make them so.
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Many AR-15 types of semi's are a non-restricted rifle in Canada as long as the mag is pinned to hold 5 rounds (if the magazine holds 6 it's prohibited). Most non-gun people would be surprised what is non-restricted here, take a look, all the rifles on this page on non-restricted: https://www.firearmsoutletcanada.com/rifles/non-restricted/semi-automatic Having the right to choose to NOT own a gun isn't satisfactory to some people....they won't rest until the the right TO own one is stripped from everybody else. That's how their minds are programmed and they're not going to change.
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Are we trying to run before we crawl? C/AV death today
G.mech replied to Old Ironmaker's topic in General Discussion
And that is exactly the problem...the car does incorporate radar (lidar) sensors that should have picked up the cyclist....at least according to the news report. -
Are we trying to run before we crawl? C/AV death today
G.mech replied to Old Ironmaker's topic in General Discussion
Very interesting report with video....sounds like the car may have been at least partly to blame after all. http://www.cbc.ca/news/world/uber-self-driving-accident-video-1.4587439 -
Are we trying to run before we crawl? C/AV death today
G.mech replied to Old Ironmaker's topic in General Discussion
And there was a human behind the wheel also according to the report I read......This seems like a real world test that proved that some accidents may actually be unavoidable to the motorist. -
Are we trying to run before we crawl? C/AV death today
G.mech replied to Old Ironmaker's topic in General Discussion
Apparently there was a human driver in the car too.....not sure what happened but seems to be a number of problems here. -
Are we trying to run before we crawl? C/AV death today
G.mech replied to Old Ironmaker's topic in General Discussion
How many pedestrians were killed this week by cars with inattentive, careless, or impaired drivers? Humans are far from perfect too it seems. -
I bought Lowrance Insight Planner since it supports all the Navionics mapping, and the full symbol set for Lowrance. It does allow you to transfer, manage, change, add, & delete waypoints and trails but I find it a little glitchy and not all that easy to use. Most of the other programs don't support the symbol set so you lose these details when you import your waypoints in a .gpx file or transfer back and forth. I've tried a few other free or trial programs as well and none seem to be ideal for what I do....
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One other consideration which has not been mentioned is that many boats get damaged while being trailered on the road or in storage. I always thought they were covered with the tow vehicle while being towed but recently found out that only the trailer is covered and not the load itself (i.e. the boat). Likely not a big factor in Akri's case by the sound of things but may be a consideration for others.
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But MEC sells other stuff that's marketed by a supplier who also markets guns....can't shop there or the profits from these sun glasses are effectively going straight to the NRA right?
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I like them but find they make your electronic screens almost impossible to see. The bent glass on my windshield becomes hard to see through as well when you have them on....
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Sorry, I guess I was just jumping to that conclusion based on the 6 page thread detailing all your plans to finance it.....
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If the boat is financed, the lender often requires you to insure it. The insurer in turn requires the survey if the boat is older.
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okay, sorry. That was offside I guess....
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I can attest to that. Krattor's Terrova drove us half way across Lake St. Clair one day with no problem at all. Let's just leave it at that..... I have had PD's and Terrovas over the years and the Terrova is great.
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x2....heavier the better.
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If you import a boat for your personal use, you don't need to attach a compliance plate as outlined in the link above. The load & horsepower ratings for boats are calculated and the Transport Canada formulas are slightly more conservative in most cases than the USCG formulas resulting in slightly lower capacities under the TC rules.
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That is quite a voltage drop, not ideal for your electronics. You could turn down the voltage alarm setting on your HDS down to 10.5V and go fishing since your HDS units will keep working down to about 10 volts but as your battery runs down your voltage is going to continue to drop which may cause problems. If you do the tests Dan describes and you find it is a feed wire size issue, you could just add a second parallel conductor (say a #12) to your exist #10 feed and ground and it would reduce the drop considerably rather than replacing the #10's altogether if that's easier. On my last 2 boats, I put a separate fuse block in at my console for my dash electronics completely independent of the livewells, lights and stuff. I fed it from the house battery with a #10 and haven't had any issues at all but it's surprising how all the loads add up on this stuff with it all combined. May be something to consider since it sounds like you've got quite a bit of stuff connected.
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That's too easy Dan.......good idea!
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I'm not sure what all you have connected or the total amperage with everything running but I would think the #10 should do it especially being that short (it would give you about 25A capacity with a .4V drop). Are the grounds all connected back to a ground bus with a #10 running back to the battery too? The negative leg is just as important as the feed to switch panel and should be the same size. If the battery voltage is up to snuff, I'm not sure what else to look for other than maybe a loose or dirty connection and confirming the actual loads with an ammeter as others have said just to be sure. One thing you could try is running another parallel feed wire temporarily from the battery to the switch panel and see if the voltage drop goes away with both of them connected. If that stops the drop it stands to reason that the feed may in fact be undersized but I really can't see it unless you have a very large load.
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Here's the thing, you can hook as many batteries in parallel as you like you will still only have 12.6 volts to work with even though you have more power capacity to run the stuff for longer. If you try and draw too much current through too small a conductor (the wire from AGM-1 to the switch panel and back), the resulting voltage drop will be too high for your electronics to operate properly. If you're losing 1.6 Volts through the undersized conductor and you're starting with 12.6V, you will only have 11 volts left at your devices regardless of whether you have 1 battery or 10. Until you turn off some of the devices to reduce the load (which I think is what your describing) you will have low voltage at your dash. If your battery is simply running out of juice, that's another story and adding more batteries will keep them running at full voltage for a longer period of time as Dan and Art are suggesting. Here is a wire size chart for 12V marine electronics, I'd check the wires to your dash panel and make sure they're big enough for the load before going to all the extra batteries. Remember, the length shown is for the wire both to the panel and back to the battery so if it's 10 feet away, you use the 20 foot length at the left of the chart. I usually run at least a #10 to the dash to run all the electronics, most boats from the factory have a much smaller conductor and lots of people have the same trouble: