whiskywizard

If you've got the fuel line connected at both the tank end and the engine end, there's no way the ball seals can be stuck shut. The tank fitting and engine fitting both are male fittings that force the balls back from the o-rings mechanically. If you've got ample fuel in the tank and you've pumped it a lot and it's not moving fuel, the check valve in the bulb may have failed, or you hav e asuction leak at the o-ring on the tank-end fitting. The o-ring can be replaced. You can buy just the bulb, or a complete set. If the old hose is stiff or you've had leqaks at the fittings, I'd suggest a full hose set

Both are good boats, and have their strengths, depending on what you want to do and what you want to spend. Since there are so many compromises in every boat, I'm a big proponent of first establishing your budget then buying the best that you can afford. If you decide first how much you want to spend, and then get the most you can for that amount of money, you can't really be unhappy, 'cause anything better would cost more than you wanted to spend. Have you definitely narrowed down your search to limit it to one of those two? I ask this because there are other better boats and other lesser boats available, all dependant on your budget.

What size is the deep cycle battery you'll be charging? Its capacity, in ampere-hours, will in part determine how to size the charger. My guess is that the CTC one you linked to might be too small. And as stated here already, it might not be the quality you hope for. I'd want to see the literature for the charger. What CTC has posted in the ad is contradictory: "- Built-in intelligent microprocessor makes charging faster, easier and safer - 4A medium charge for charging large batteries or 2A trickle charge for charging small batteries and maintaining car and truck batteries" These two statements don't go together. A true Smart charger varies voltage by cell type and varies current as the battery state of charge comes up. Trickle-charging a battery at a fixed 2A guarantees a shorter life. If you look at the one Pike Slayer suggested, it tells you it uses a 4-stage charge and that it will provide adequate charge for deep cycles ranging from 1.2Ah to 120Ah. Much better choice...

Hard for me to guess whose they are. I don't know what river it was. You might be able to guess based on your surroundings. Likely, the municipality monitors them, but it could be MOE or even a private company. Is there a landfill near there? Or anything else that could cause a spill or leech out to the natural environment. Think about what might be above there (uphill).

Aha - since you posted that on OFC, I have deduced that you caught them in Ontario. And I can see from the background that it's somewhere close to a road. That's a good enough clue for me; I'm on my way. [nice fish. thanks for the report]

Are they about 6"x6" square and a few feet tall with a locked lid? If so, that's a ground water sampling hole used for environmental monitoring.

But what if he's using it that way on a spiral wrapped rod? Would it be OK then?

That's good news Cliff. Let's hope this imposter Spring holds on for a couple more weeks until the real Spring arrives.

I just went through the same research you're doing now. In short, I liked the G3 as well and couldn't fault it in any serious way. I won't get into a welded vs rivetted discussion because I'm well aware that both have their pros and cons and both are fine. What I found: - G3 is a mid-range boat on the scale of quality. There are some better, some worse. You get what you pay for. - Warranty was competitive, but had different terms for each component on the boat - read it to be sure it suits your needs. - wood has a 10y warranty. - I didn't see an Angler 165. I saw a 162, 164, and 167. - You are restricted to a Yamaha outboard because of the company ties. - some had the battery chargers installed as base equipment; nice. - lots of colours and interior layouts In the end, I chose a different make and went up 1 size to a 175, but it wasn't that I had any real gripes with the G3. Overall, nice boat.

I've been in 4 or 5 BPS in the US. They feel different than the one in Vaughan. There's more choice, especially in clothing, and the staff work hard to be pleasant. There's two I particularly liked; the one in Prattville, AL has the nicest people. The one in Lawrenceville, GA, outside Atlanta is really big with great selections.

I just picked up a new Phoenix trailer that came with UFP "Vault" sealed hubs. I hadn't seen these before. No grease or other adjustment or service for minimum of 5 years; likely good past 10 years. I don't have enough info yet to either endorse them or slam them - only time will tell. Vault brochure UFP - The Vault

As stated above, the newer models must be submerged to fire. The old sensors would fire the CO2 cartridge if they got a good splash or were thoroughly wetted, and that's why you'll still hear the "stories" about it. No longer true, but you know how stories can linger...

Most carburetted freshwater boats can get by without a water separator if you're careful with 2 things; your fuel source, and your fuel filler cap gasket/o-ring. If you also avoid e-10 fuel, you're even better off. If you decide you want to install a spin-on Racor as was linked to earlier, beware that for gas boats (as opposed to diesel) you want the model with the metal separator bowl. The plastic bowl is not rated for gas (petrol) mounted inside a boat's hull. As an aside, I have a Yamaha 25 2-stroke on a RIB. Its fuel can looks like this: These caps allow rainwater into the tank if you leave them exposed to weather with the vent unscrewed (open). I'll bet others do too.

Current should be exactly halved. The alternator is 40A at ~14.4V, and will step back rather quickly. So the 24V output will be ~20A at 28.8V, and will still get dialled back fast by the 2 series batteries' ability to absorb charge. If I use switces and relays, then the boat is hard for somebody else to operate. For $100, I think I'll go with the Yandina Trollbridge 24. Thanks for the thoughts.

I've tried that stuff. You're right; really, really bad stuff! But it's called single malt whisky, not Scotch. To be Scotch it has to be distilled from barley, in Scotland, and aged in an oak cask for at least 3 years, in Scotland. Sorry for taking us off-topic, but I had to speak up

Welcome i2cool2fool. Or would Mr. Fool be more respectful? I'm a recent addition here too, and I also noticed that the folks here are pretty civilized. My wife and I enjoy powerboat cruising and I participate on other boating forums. In the winter, with the boats laid up, people get antsy and downright nasty. Not here. Seems like a super bunch. I've been warmly welcomed here and I'm sure you'll get the same.

Hmmm - that doesn't sound all that bad.

In the various rescue reports, there's often a line talking about possible charges and fines. Does anybody know what violation(s) they could be charged with? I'm not aware of any that apply. Or is it some goofy municipal bylaw?

I can't believe how fast it's melting! I think you might be OK by the weekend Simon.Where will you launch?

Scugog River from Lindsay to Sturgeon Lake is wide open, of course, and the very south end of the lake is "centre bare". The channel is fully open out to beyond the navigation buoys, and it's widening so fast you can see it happening. The bays at the south end still have some ice but it's punky and melting fast. It just barely supports the Canada geese! This week, with temps in the teens, should open up some launch ramps.

If you go out from Gilford, don't go farther north than the abandonned fishing gear that's floating there.

I dredged this old thread up kind of by accident. I'm new to Sturgeon lake and I have been doing my homework to make sure I know what the regs are in my area. I especially wanted to understand any tricky bits that could trip me up. So, going through Zone 17's exceptions, I came across the fact that the Scugog R. is a fish sanctuary, completely closed to all fishing from Nov 16 thru to the 3rd weekend in May (First Friday after the 2nd Saturday). The MNR describes this sanctuary as, "Scugog River (Lindsay) - Ops Twp., from Trent-Severn Dam to Ops-Fenelon boundary." I was pretty sure I knew what that Ops-Fenelon boundary was, since I live close to it. But I googled it anyway, to double-check if I was right or not, and among the hits that came up was this old thread. Cool. As I read the thread, I noted that the boundary wasn't well described and was not well understood, so I thought I would try clear things up and maybe keep somebody out of trouble.... - Skeeter99 said there is a sign posted. I'm sure he saw one, but now, 4 years later, I haven't see one. One of them would have to be on my property, and I probably wouldn't miss something like that. - Sinker followed through with MNR and he got the boundary right. It extends from Pickerel Point Rd on the East side of the lake, across to Kenrei Rd. on the West side. Note that Kenrei is the correct name of that road. It is not a typo. There is a mix of names over there; Ken Reid/Kenrei stuff - can be confusing. - I've talked to a few guys around here who were told over the years that the old railway bridge is the downstream boundary (44.37770, -78.74541). This is very easy to believe, since so many of Ontario's defined tributary limits are the railroads, especially on the North shore of Lake Ontario. But in this case, it's not true. If you're at the old bridge, you're almost 3km inside the sanctuary! - If you're looking for a marker on the water, the boundary is approximately at the red buoy CP42. The green CP41 is inside the sanctuary. - Sinker noted that this sanctuary seemed longer than most. He's right. It extends a full 3.1NM (5.75km) from the dam in town downstream to its Northern boundary. - In practical terms, it means there is no icefishing whatsoever from the South end of Goose Bay all the way back into town.

Will that be 15% off all the stuff they don't have in stock? Sorry - I'm a bit cynical when it comes to LeBaron's; haven't had many any good experiences there. Hopefully you're getting better service and enjoying the experience more than me.

Same here. Clear when I left Sturgeon Lake at 0700, then huge flakes on Hwy 35, then total whiteouts on 401.

I want to charge the trolling motor deep cycle batteries when I'm running my main outboard. (The alternator has enough capacity to do this.) A pair of deep cycles wired in series supply 24VDC to the electric trolling motor. Primary starting battery is a regular cranking battery; 12VDC. When plugged into shorepower, a 3-bank smart charger charges all 3 batteries. Has anybody tried the Yandina Trollbridge24? Here's a simple schematic. I have simplified it by eliminating the local ground and positive buss bars, fuses, breakers and battery disconnect switches.