whiskywizard

Funny. But why are you playing left-handed? Was your right-hand game soooo bad that you had nothing to lose?

I had a cottage for years on Gloucester Pool, by Big Chute. Like any other place, Honey Harbour has both pros and cons. Fantastic boating, with access to the rest of the world. No end of places to explore. Fantastic swimming. Great fishing, but challenging to get to know it. Close to civilization but definitely natural and beautiful scenery. The road traffic to get there, from the GTA, can be awful and there aren't a lot of options on routes to get there. Will you be restricted to weekends? If so, plan on almost 3h each way. Heavy boat traffic as mentioned earlier - I won't belabour that. Personally, I love watching the bigger cruisers so this is both good and bad. Local population fluctuates wildly - from very low in off season and chock-a-block full in summer. On a summer long weekend sometimes it's hard to find a loaf of bread in the smallest stores. G_bay property values will never drop in any significant way, so good investment.

Strange. The wear you're describing is that of under-inflation, not misalignment. You say you've checked pressure, so I'll toss out some ideas... Is it possible your pressure guage is out of calibration? Is it possible your pressure is good now but you've operated with low pressure in the past, maybe caused by cold weather?

Good advice Cliff, except I shot myself in the foot... I've fully installed the unit. And to do that properly, I cut and spliced the transducer cable, and I shortened the power cables. All my electrical connections are crimped and heat-shrink sealed and the NMEA0183 conductors are tied back and insulated. It's really not in the same condition as when I bought it. And I recycled the box! To add to it, I've discovered that this Taylormade windshield causes problems for other GPS units too. I'm short on options here, so I'll get the external antenna. I will be asking Raymarine to get me their best deal on the antenna. And by best, I'm thinking free. .

Thanks for the help everybody. It looks like I need an external antenna. My problem is the Taylormade windshield; it must have some unique coating in the safety glass lamination. I removed the GPS unit from the boat, and made up a jumper so I could power it up remotely using a 12VDC jump box. Standing on my dock, holding the GPS unit in my hand, the nearest building is about 200' away and I picked up 10 or more satellites (on average). Then, still using the jump box power supply I returned the plotter to the boat (on the trailer in the barn) but not under the shadow of the windshield. Still had 6 satellites or more, while in the barn. Moving it under the windshield near its mount dropped me to 4-6 satellites, and all weak signals. And the unit couldn't find those satellites again if I restarted the GPS. I then returned the plotter to its proper dash mount and reconnected it to the boat's power supply and pulled the boat around with the tractor. As long as the windshield wasn't between the unit and the southern sky, I was OK. So, it's that damn Taylormade windshield. Who's got a new Raystar 130 for sale, cheap?

The schematics that were already posted give you a lot of guidance. The rest is pretty easy. You are creating a very simple NMEA2000 network. Note that it is NMEA, not NEMA. If you're searching, NEMA searches will return household and commercial electrical standards. NMEA will return marine electronics standards. You need a NMEA2000 backbone. It is the main conductor cable that will run from the engine area to the helm area. You will need at least 3 T-fittings to tie into the backbone. One for the motor interface, one to the Lowrance plotter and one to feed 12VDC into the backbone. You will also need 2 end terminators. You have to terminate the backbone at each end. And finally you need the engine interface cable. I see you're chasing that down now. Radioworld is a good source for the hardware and the knowledge.

I've recently installed a Raymarine A57D chart plotter/fishfinder on an Alumacraft Trophy175 aluminium fishing boat. It takes a long time for the GPS to acquire satellites and get a fix. And it often drops them, losing the fix. If I'm headed north, I get much better reception. But if I'm headed south, and the windshield occludes the southern sky, I get 4 birds, maybe 5 at best, and I lose my fix. The unit sits on the dash, in behind a glass windshield (Taylormade windshield). The boat has no hardtop or canvas. Except for the windshield, the unit should be able to see the full sky all the time. I've talked to Raymarine and the retailer (local guy who I know well). They both say this antenna has a good track record; no record of complaints. Raymarine gave me a compact flash card with the latest software to install. I was hopeful that would help, but found that my unit already had the latest version/build. Argh! Raymarine tech support suggested I set my SOG/COG filter to high, but I know this won't help me hold a satellite signal. I'm facing 2 options; 1. Take the unit off and ship it to Raymarine, which means I'll lose it for weeks and weeks, or 2. Buy the external antenna (>$300). The whole unit was <$800, so I'm not thrilled with spending more than $300 for an antenna. Any advice, before I try option 1?

To me, skunked means no fish in the boat. If you're out for walleye and you boat an over-eager rock bass, you won't be eating fish tonight but you weren't skunked.

Marine Tex

His discipline is mechanical. And I'd get a smck if I whipped out an iPad while I was there! .

I'll also be in Ottawa Thursday for my son's convocation from Carleton; Engineering. Watch for me. I'll be the guy in the audience who looks a proud father, taking pictures. Can't miss me! Yeah - congrats Dan. My daughter's from U Ottawa too. Human Kinetics. very good school, and they all loved living in Ottawa. I wish your daughter the very best in her new career.

Try standing fully clothed in a cold shower, with a fan blowing on you, and tear up $50 bills. If that feels good, boating might be for you.

According to the manual, it looks like the 2011 40HP etec is NMEA 2000 ready. With an interface cable, you can connect to a NMEA 2000 backbone and feed that into the Lowrance plotter. It will display engine data. =================== From page 44 of the ETEC 40hp 2011 owners manual:IMPORTANT: Your outboard may be equipped with an optional engine monitoring system such as I-Command, SystemCheck,or equivalent. The engine monitoring system warns you of conditions that could damage your outboard. The monitoring system consists of a dashmounted gauge, a warning horn, sensors on the engine and oil tank, and related wiring. The system is compatible with the Evinrude Modular Wiring System (MWS) or can be connected to an I-Command system, or other NMEA 2000 compliant CANbus instruments. GAUGES Gauges are available in several styles, such as a digital I-Command gauge with LCD displays or a basic SystemCheck gauge. 1. Typical I-Command Digital gauge 2. Typical SystemCheck gauge Function The EMM activates the warning horn and the gauge displays as follows: • LOW OIL means that oil in the tank is at reserve level (about 1/4 full). • NO OIL indicates an oil delivery problem such as an empty oil tank or damaged oil system. • WATER TEMP or HOT indicates an engine or EMM overheat condition. • CHECK ENGINE or FAULT is used to indicate other fault conditions identified by the EMM. For I-Command and other gauges, refer to the gauge user’s guide for gauge displays, operation, warnings, and monitoring instructions. SYSTEM SELF-TEST During engine start-up, pause with the key switch in the ON position. The monitoring system self-tests by sounding a half-second beep. SystemCheck gauges self-test by turning the indicator lights on simultaneously, then off in sequence. IMPORTANT: If the self-test does not happen as stated, see your Dealer. ENGINE MONITOR WARNINGS Engine monitor system warnings activate the horn for 10 seconds and the appropriate gauge light for a minimum of 30 seconds, or until alarm is acknowledged. If the failure is momentary (for example, oil moving in the tank), the engine monitor gauge light or display may remain ON for a full 30 seconds before going out. If the unsafe operating condition continues, a light or display remains ON until the key is turned OFF or the failure is corrected. The warning will reoccur at the next startup if the problem is not corrected. If the EMM senses a problem could cause permanent engine damage, it will also limit engine speed to 1200 RPM. This additional protection feature is referred to as S.A.F.E. (Speed Adjusting Failsafe Electronics). If the engine was running faster than 1200 RPM when the S.A.F.E. mode activated, it will shake noticeably. Under certain operating conditions the EMM will shut OFF the engine.

There are some real advantages to mounting a transducer inside the hull on a fibreglass boat. The depth sounder signal will pass through the 'glass without a problem, as long as the hull isn't cored. Your temperature sender will work, but it will be slightly slower responding to changes in water temperature. It will take a few seconds for the hull to adjust to lake temp. If you decide to go this way, there are few important steps to take as you plan and execute the installation. None are difficult.

Father, angler, husband, HERO... Is there no end to the stuff I can still learn from you Simon? (good story. I enjoyed it)

My house is all-electric; no natural gas in the area, so I have a heat pump. When I replaced it I went with a Lennox XP21 heat pump (19 SEER) and Lennox CBX32MV air handler. When I researched the various makes, I found lots of complaints about Lennox. But as you drill into them, you'll find the complaints come from Builder's Grade low-end installations, and Lennox's higher-grade stuff works well. Not too surprising. I found the same thing for each manufacturer's lower-end stuff. The new heat pumps and air conditioning units use R-410A refrigerant. It's less efficient than your old refrigerant so you're going to be surprised when you see how much physically bigger the new A/C unit is.

Is the furnace also 27 years old? If so, I would change it now to reduce the risk of an heat exchanger crack shutting me down mid-winter. It's really hard to be a tough negotiator when it's -20C out and your gas furnace was just tagged out.

Thanks for that link KF. Very interesting reading. I understand fully the benefit of hitting that "critical mass" of 100 million, but - wow, there'd sure be some teething pains as we try to get there by welcoming more than 400,000 new immigrants every year.

Great to hear that. Thanks TJ

Success! I got it running again, but I'm not 100% certain what was wrong. It appears it was a software issue. I followed the troubleshooting advice here. Shear pin was fine. No signs of moisture or overheating.There were no power supply issues. I completely powered it down, dissipated any residual charge, powered it up again and it was fine. Now I need to keep my fingers crossed as I give it a proper open water test. Thanks for all the advice, and stand by for results.

This is a PD V2 with iPilot built in from the factory, so it doesn't have a foot pedal. I researched all the makes (not many) and the models (lots) before buying. The only consistent problem I found was the foot pedal, just like you've experienced. That scared me off so I chose the one that has the handheld wireless remote.

This is a PD V2 with iPilot built in. It doesn't have a foot pedal. I researched all the makes (not many) and the models (lots) before buying. The only consistent problem I found was the foot pedal so I chose the one that has the handheld wireless remote.

I'll go check the shear pin, but I don't think that's it. I think I would have heard the electric motor running, even if it isn't turning the prop. I'll double-check.

Thanks for the tips so far. This model has no foot pedal; just a handheld wireless remote. I purchased it at Gagnon's in Oshawa. All the Minn Kota literature says not to take it to the seller. Gotta go to Minn Kota's authorised service centres. It looks like Pickering is the closest for me.

My new Minn Kota Powerdrive V2 iPilot failed this morning. I ran it for a few hours this morning, on and off, and was returning to my dock. Chewed through some weeds, it slowed and then stalled. I picked it up, cleared the prop and dropped it into the water again thinking the weeds were too much. Now, the prop won't power up. I could use some trouble shooting help, before I pull it off and take it back for service. Here's what I know right now: The motor worked perfectly earlier this morning. I used it for traveling through the stump fields, holding position and a little maneuvering. Maybe 60 minutes total run time. The motor is less than 1 month old and has about 5-6h use on it. The batteries are less than 1 month old and have the same use on them. The batteries get charged every time I return home with the boat. I checked battery voltage as soon as I got back to the dock. In series the 2 batteries showed 25.05VDC. Individually they were 12.52VDC and 12.51VDC. This was immediately after using it for several hours. The Minn Kota's own battery monitor shows 3/4. The powerdrive steering still works, and will rotate the power head in either direction. When I press the PROP button on the remote to call for motor power, I can hear a relay click in the unit, and I get the beep tone to acknowledge the request for power. The circuit breaker has not tripped (obviously - the steering and beep tones still work) The prop turns freely by hand. There's nothing visible in between the prop and the power head. The motor is hard-wired in, no plug between the unit and the battery. Any ideas, or must I lose it to warranty work for 6 weeks?