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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/30/2023 in all areas

  1. Some nice muskies are being caught on the West Arm lately. Memquisit Lodge is a good place to stay and it's right where you want to be for good fishing. https://www.memquisitlodge.net/
    2 points
  2. left handed...probably lost by a guy in a tiller
    1 point
  3. I didn't even buy the high end two stage EGO model. We've got a two lane 30' driveway. I don't know about ryobi but two years ago we had 13 inches of snow to the point where the snow was higher then the mouth of the snowblower. The EGO cleared it. It was a little extra work and required charging the batteries but I got one lane done and the walkway on a single charge. 2-4 inches of dry snow? I laugh in your face John. I jog with the snowblower at that height and it chucks the snow 30'. It's like electric cars, everyone who doesn't have one has an opinion but they are basically ignorant. If I lived in Buffalo or had 300 ft driveway I'd get gas, for 90% of the people electric is better. and cheaper. Ditto EV cars. I get 400km for $4 for EV car.
    1 point
  4. all of them... Theres plenty of better fishing at an equal distance to the kawarthas from the GTA. Take the 400 instead of the 401. How to catch the fish? Its an easy time of year right now...Largemouth pull in shallow and the smallise school up on shoals to eat bait. How to catch them, watch a lot of tactical bassin. It will help.
    1 point
  5. forgot about that one.... that's a palm to the head moment
    1 point
  6. 1 point
  7. Any time I get dead power like you describe---9 times outta 10 in my life it's been a ground issue Make sure your ground connections on both ends are clean and not corroded. Bad grounds can drive ya crazy
    1 point
  8. Does the solenoid click/ make a noise when you try to start it I would check to see it there is a fuse in line for the smaller wire on the solenoid you can bypass or jump the solenoid, run booster cables to the start and see if that turns it over
    1 point
  9. Some new to me materials and like so far.
    1 point
  10. Read through all the support you have received here and it's all good advise!!! A couple of things that haven't been mentioned though. You should flush out the gear case. The milkshake looking oil, will still be in there covering the inside of the case walls and the gearing. I would suggest filling the case with either automatic trans fluid, kerosene or even diesel fuel. Then with the case in neutral, spin the prop shaft with some form of rotating tool. Drill, impact driver whatever you have that you can attach a socket to it and the prop shaft nut. I'm not talking about spinning the shaft at 10 thousand RPM; but just fast enough to splash that solvent around. Afterwards drain the case, if it still looks milky repeat again until it looks clear. The three fluids I mentioned are are oil and will not hurt anything; just allow it to drain completely and then add the new gear oil. As for pressure testing the gear case, you can make up your own tester; I've made a few when I was playing with outboard motor repairs. Find yourself a cheep automotive cooling system pressure tester. Remove the rad attachment end of the tester's hose. Now find hollow fittings that will thread into the case's fill hole and that will fit the male threads of the tester's hose. Sometimes to coble this up can be difficult to find all the fittings. In that case, I'd find a longer bolt or screw for the fill hole. Cut the head off and then drill a small hold through the bolt/screw. Now thread the screw into the motor's case, leaving enough sticking out that you can hose clamp the tester's hose to the screw. Once ready do not pump anymore then about 8 or 10 pounds of pressure into the case. Have a spray bottle of soapy water ready and go nuts looking for where the leak MIGHT be? Sorry for the long post but how else could I have explained my thoughts? Thoughts of an old retired mechanic that sometimes comes out making perfect sense to me; but gibberish to others. LOL Dan...
    1 point
  11. The video method is good I have taken seals out like that not going to lie taking it off is my preferred method I would suggest you go one set of screws higher and get access to the water pump and change that rubber impeller worse thing is to be out in the middle of your favourite lake and not pumping cooling water once you undo it it will drop a bit and hang on the shift linkage usually a coupler with 2 set screws loosen the lower and the lower unit will come away put it up on a bench and go to town you will see the housing for the impeller you can’t miss it troll some forums specific to your mortor first time is always painful and bloody take your time be patient use your cell for disassembly and reassembly the money you save buy a new toy for the boat and take pride in your new skill YOU CAN DO IT!!!!!! cheers peter
    1 point
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