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Posted

I have a brand new 14ft Smokercraft wide/deep tiller with a 2008 30hp 4 stroke Mercury.  It is pretty much a bare bones boat, no flooring or livewell. I get 28mph top speed trimmed out and can troll down to 1.98mph on calm water. When by myself I do have a slight lean to the right, which I find is normal for most smaller boats, I compensate for the lean by putting my battery and gas tank to the opposite side.

I would question your theory of the foam being saturated, I am not sure but wouldn't they of used closed foam which wouldn't absorb water? And if not then I would think that all the foam thru out the boat would be saturated from the water leeching thru, not just the one side? 

 

 

Posted (edited)

From what I have seen from other older boats is that the Expanding foam Injected eventually will become saturated if soaked for a long time. I am not 100% sure on my boat frame but most are sectioned off for strength underneath. 
 

This is all speculation as I have not seen any build pics or info. 
 

I may take a peak in the winter as shifting everything in the boat to the left side still doesn’t level the boat even with a full live well, 2 27 batteries and 80 minn Kota on the left side. 
 

I do realize the boat is shallow so even if the foam is soaked on the right side it shouldn’t be a huge weight but given there is only one console and starboard has a wider gunwale the boat would have a natural starboard tilt especially with a 200lb driver.

If bored I may cut a bit in the winter for a peek. Secondly patching the front right hole inside would be reassuring for the next year.

 

Edited by Raycaster
Posted

I found a piece of foam that had come loose and was sitting in the bilge on my 1994 Alumicraft.  It sank, so I don't think the foam was of much use.  The entire boat sank not too long after that.

I have been told the newer boats use better foam.

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

looking at the hull pics and hearing how you have been compensating like crazy it occurred to me that the hull has been bent/reshaped/twisted to push it up on one side thus changing the flotation and planing abilities on that side. 

Edited by cisco
Posted

My Legend is a 2000 15' Prosport 40 4stroke  when I replaced the floor and put vinyl down there was no flotation on the floor just blocks at the rear ,ahead of the bait well and up at the bow bench seat

In hind site I should have put close cell foam board in the floor which is probably next on my list As to your listing prob my boat also lists but to the port side with a passenger 

Kind of used to it now

 

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Posted

BTW a great way acc to some boat build forums to provide flotation is to install a bunch of various-sized cleaned out and capped plastic motor oil jugs.  Easy to install, cheap, light and effective.   

  • Like 1
Posted
20 hours ago, cisco said:

BTW a great way acc to some boat build forums to provide flotation is to install a bunch of various-sized cleaned out and capped plastic motor oil jugs.  Easy to install, cheap, light and effective.   

Dollar Store pool noodles , closed cell too .

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Update.

Took a peek and drilled a 2” circle in the storage floor.

1) Foam not saturated.
2) Floor frame makes it almost impossible to remove and fix any cracks.

3) Removing engine, flipping hull over and aluminum brazing any  Hull crack is the only real option. 
 

The thought of removing foam to get at any cracks is a non-starter. Do able but so is building an Egyptian pyramid.

The boat only had a few cups of water in it after a week in the water, not enough even to use bilge. The epoxy patch seems fine for now and if needs yearly touchups its acceptable.

The main problem of the lean is probably as most have mentioned caused by the console and fat driver on the right side in a basically oversized jonboat.

The cutout is being properly fixed with marine adhesive and rivets. 
 

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

LostChild, the color is aged but tan/brown seems to be a trim guage wire.

I have left them unattached as the engines has been running perfect.

Every bit of logic points to them being connected together but until I see a tech give me the ok I will leave well enough alone.

The trim Control on the engine and on the throttle work 100% and I dont have a trim guage on my console so I black taped them apart.

 

Posted

I had the same problem on a 16 ft Cutter pushed by a 70HP Evinrude, and for years couldn't find the cure. (I received a lot of useless advice including from licensed and experienced boat mechanics who made me change the prop, add a planing wing, move the battery and gas tanks, etc). Until one day I discovered by pure chance that by trimming out the engine (which did not have power trim, just a pin) by 3 positions the problem was fully resolved. I encountered this again on another boat and sure enough the same remedy worked on it too.

  • Like 1
Posted

lol if only my boats problems could be fixed by me dieting and exercising....*sigh*

that little leak doesnt even count. My tinner even brand new also always managed to get a little bit of water in it after a week on the water and I know for certain it wasnt leaking, I think the majority of it simply came from when you land fish, wet nets, morning dew etc etc.

Posted (edited)

Unfortunately life has got in the way with a “small shingle problem (12 bundles)” for the house so I may be delayed trying out the trim theory.

 

Edited by Raycaster
Posted
47 minutes ago, Raycaster said:

Unfortunately life has got in the way with a “small shingle problem (12 bundles)” for the house so I may be delayed trying out the trim theory.

 

lol it may actually help, lifting twelve bundles onto that roof will make anyone lose weight hahaha

Thats what I should probably do as well 😆

Reminds me of my thread where Im losing top end and was worried about compression and my buddy said, how much covid weight did you gain ahahaha

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