Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hello

 

Anyone ever change a bearing housing/bearing carrier on a lower unit... Some aggressive reverse driving and a gear slipping or something like that managed to crack both the top and bottom of the housing...

 

Great way to start my vacation...

 

I'm wondering if the seals and bearings are reusable or should I replace all the parts in the housing... The seals were just done in August...

 

If you've done this job before is there anything to watch out for?

 

Seems simple enough... Especially if I replace all the bearings and seals at the same time... Just put all the new parts in the housing and mount it back on the prop shaft...

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

EDIT: I already took the housing out and the shaft etc... All the gears look great....

 

image_4.jpg

Edited by Mike Rousseau
Posted (edited)

Didn't you just have that serviced for the power head? Will they fix that too under warrantee?

Aggressive reverse or you hit something?

Yes the power head was just replaced... And my lower unit seals as well... I've put over 100 hours on the motor since then...

 

Definitely did not hit anything...

 

I was in hard reverse and something slipped in the lower unit.. Maybe the clutch dog... When contact was made again it would have acted like a hammer pushing out against the housing... This is what I understand based on a conversation with a mechanic after describing what happened... And based on what I can see now that I have all the parts out and understand lower units a bit better...

 

Might be my last yamaha I ever buy at this rate...

Edited by Mike Rousseau
Posted

I have reserved thoughts about it breaking that while in reverse. More than idle while shifting maybe or something not put back together correctly if they did the rear seal earlier.

Posted

Possible they cracked the ears putting it back together and a bit of extra umph made them show up. I'd be trying to get them to come good for overtorquing the flange bolts.

Posted

Possible they cracked the ears putting it back together and a bit of extra umph made them show up. I'd be trying to get them to come good for overtorquing the flange bolts.

To replace everything it's max $200 in parts...

 

It would cost me that in gas making 2 round trips across the border to Clayton NY

 

 

all I need to know is if I can reuse the bearings and seals and O rings and reduce that cost to $120

Posted

Maybe they'll send you the parts gracious!

They said last time for warranty work they need to do a full investigation on the outboard...

 

They even analyzed my oil...

 

I'm gunna call them before I order parts in case I get lucky...

Posted

Let's play a game where none of us talk about my original question and see how many posts we can get on this thread...

 

I know your all trying to help in your own way...

 

But...

 

I just need to know if the seals and bearings can be removed from the broken housing and reused in the new housing I'm ordering tomorrow... This will cut my cost in half... Or do I need new seals and bearings as well...

 

And if you've done this job are there any tricky tasks I will run into...

 

Lol

 

You guys crack me up sometimes...

Posted (edited)

I have no idea about what you dealing with or how too. I can talk to you about bearings and seals though some what. I am not there to see them , also Im a hands on guy and do have a hard time saying properly the how toos, Thats why Wayne is here. LOL

 

Look at the seals for wear. Uneven wear. If they seem to be round and no indication of wear,you will be fine. Now the bearings. If you can roll them on your finger and feel smooth rotation with not a bit of grind or staggering, they will be fine. Are these sealed with steel or rubber? Also, look for pick up on the shaft and the inside of the bearings. Pick up is scratching on the shaft or in the inner surface of the bearing. If you have this, then you need to use like 600-up to 1200 emory to remove the groves,scrathes on the shaft and require new bearings and seals.

 

If the bearings are steel sealed, you need to make sure there is no indents on the sealed area. If so, you will need to replace them. With the rubber sealed ones,you will see if it is torn or broke through.

 

Sound right Wayne?

Edited by Brian B
Posted

I don't know B.. he doesn't have patience to troll GBay for Musky, I don't have the patience for arrogance when someone asks but doesn't want to listen to advise.

Posted

I forgot to ask. Are there two bearings? If so, you need to roll them on your finger together. If they are good,they will seem to roll and feel the same. If not, you will know. One will wobble sorta speak. Like I said, im a hands on guy.

Posted (edited)

I don't know B.. he doesn't have patience to troll GBay for Musky, I don't have the patience for arrogance when someone asks but doesn't want to listen to advise.

 

Ok, Like I said. Hands on guy here.

 

Then again, whats the price of some bearings and a couple of seals.

Edited by Brian B
Posted

Not knowing how long you ran the motor in this condition, I would opt for new bearings. Also take a good look at the gears, if the assembly has been pushed outward to the rear, those gears may have some "extra" and not wanted wear on them. You may want to drop the whole lower unit and also inspect from the top side to ensure the drive shaft bearing is still in the same spot. Just trying to help.

Posted

apparently 80 bucks Brian.

 

Thats a good price.

 

Mike , if you have a Canadian Bearing dealer close by, give them a call.

Not sure of your home local.

Posted (edited)

 

Ok, Like I said. Hands on guy here.

 

Then again, whats the price of some bearings and a couple of seals.

To replace everything it's $167 US...

 

That's the housing... Both bearings... Seals... I rings... And the 2 bolts...

 

I've just never done anything like this...

 

It sounds like I'm better of replacing everything...

 

Any advice on installing the bearings and seals?

 

I've heard you can use a socket to tap em in... One forum I read said to put locktight on the housing when installing

Edited by Mike Rousseau

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recent Topics

    Popular Topics

    Upcoming Events

    No upcoming events found

×
×
  • Create New...