lew Posted November 22, 2014 Author Report Posted November 22, 2014 (edited) Once your rims are 15 years old Lew ,you will lose some air over a month . Shouldn't be a problem then davey, I buy a new truck every 3-4 years Edited November 22, 2014 by lew
Bernie Posted November 22, 2014 Report Posted November 22, 2014 Ha, then you would need a balancer Wayne.
Canuck2fan Posted November 22, 2014 Report Posted November 22, 2014 For sure Davey... I already have one that leaks down on my '11. Leah's old '03 is a weekly affair for two wheels. Aluminum and road brine do not play well together. The stuff they put on the roads here now eats any metal a lot quicker than it used to. Put on new drums and just go a winter and they look 10yrs old. My dad has been a mechanic for 60yrs and says he hasn't seen anything like it. They have to go back and verify the maintenance records, and part purchase dates, just because they can't believe how fast things are wearing out, on the cabs, airport vans and limos.
irishfield Posted November 22, 2014 Report Posted November 22, 2014 Part of it is cheap recycled steel... but the road brine is playing a big part in eating brake lines and other important stuff. I think it's all a conspiracy to help fund windshield washer supply companies myself... lol.. you can't even clear a windshield by drafting someone anymore!
Mister G Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 Besides aluminum wheels always having rim leeks this is just another reason not to have on any of my vehicles.; Changed out brake pads and rotors on the wife's car about 2 weeks ago and of course them damn rotors were rusted on.......about 25-50 hits with a 2.5 lb ball peen hammer and off them came. The vibration alone will eventually give way.
irishfield Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 You removed the thin lock nut and brake caliper first...
Bernie Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 Yep, and all the time you are whacking on those old rotors getting them off, where do you think that force is being transferred to?O ya, those wheel bearings. Keep an ear on them, most likely been marked on the rollers or races and will be making noise soon.
Canuck2fan Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 Yep, and all the time you are whacking on those old rotors getting them off, where do you think that force is being transferred to? O ya, those wheel bearings. Keep an ear on them, most likely been marked on the rollers or races and will be making noise soon. Yeah then don't even get me started on changing out wheel hub assemblies lately. What used to be a relatively simple and quick job to replace inner and outer bearings. With hub assemblies it has become a 4 hr to 5 hr grudge match using brute force, and 7 or 8 McGyvered tools that never seem to quite get it done. Not too mention the last 3 I helped dad with did not have anything underneath the vehicle close enough or strong enough so we could use to put a rod against to get the power steering to help pop em out. What is even sadder the labour board, and insurance rep insist that having a oxyacetylene torch is not going to happen at that shop, because of the propane dispensing tank on the property, along with the 10 vehicles running on it parked in the shop at any given time LOL I even offered to by the torch kit just to make things easier on dad, all the owner had to do was supply the gas. NOPE you aren't allowed and this a free country LOL.
Mister G Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 Time has proven over the many years this method of many small whacks on the rusted rotors have been effected without ill effects. But I'll take the advice given and keep a ear to the grindstone. Thanks BTW no thin lock nut, but here was 2 Philip screws that need to be removed.....guess that vehicle has them ? ? ?
LostAnotherOne Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 I had a problem taking my tire off one time until my dad used a rubber mallet. I always keep one in my car just in case now.
Canuck2fan Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 Time has proven over the many years this method of many small whacks on the rusted rotors have been effected without ill effects. But I'll take the advice given and keep a ear to the grindstone. Thanks BTW no thin lock nut, but here was 2 Philip screws that need to be removed.....guess that vehicle has them ? ? ? Was it a Honda by chance...
Bernie Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 A Snap-On air hammer is the greatest tool for shaking rusted parts loose.Much easier than swinging a hammer.
irishfield Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 I find the easiest way to remove the rotor is to just bring the hub along for the ride!
Bernie Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 Ha!Yep, sometimes it's best to do it all at once Wayne!
irishfield Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 (edited) Thank God it was 2 wheel drive with front mount (and not rear mount) calipers or I'd probably be shy a daughter in law ! Only thing retaining the wheel was the caliper frame. Edited November 23, 2014 by irishfield
Bernie Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 Seen that happen on many occasions.Not likely ever see a recall though. They would have to recall 98% of the vehicles made in the last 20 years. In my opinion this design should be outlawed.
irishfield Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 (edited) Yep.. I've said it to you before Bernie.... no safety retention, simply held in by the balls (when they are still present) and two bearings an inch apart expected to take the torque. Take us back to the spindle and taper bearings soon please... Edited November 23, 2014 by irishfield
Canuck2fan Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 I find the easiest way to remove the rotor is to just bring the hub along for the ride! Irishfield, I might be wrong but that I am willing to bet that method isn't found in the service manual LOL. Almost as good as the split hub on my cousins 2003 Ram that he then drove for 30 miles... It was fun getting out the other half out of the spindle. Bernie the last one was over an 1 hr on the air chisel and that was after we had to leave and come back after the office closed because the gal in there couldn't hear on the phone to take reservations LOL. I tried to explain to her that even with ear protection I couldn't hear myself think after 5 minutes. I do NOT understand why they don't come up with a brake shield made of something that will stop the metals welding together like they do, instead of adding a third alloy into the mix.... OH wait that would make sense not dollars LOL.
DRIFTER_016 Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 I replaced the front unit bearings on my Honda Pilot last winter. Man what an awful job that was. The bearing is pressed into the steering knuckle and then the hub is pressed into the bearing. Had a local shop press the bearings and they even had a heck of a time with it. GM's are way easier. Did the ball joints @ the same time so I wouldn't have to pull things apart again.
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